Footwell Replacement

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  • Crash
    Low Range
    • May 2008
    • 56

    Footwell Replacement

    I am tackling the bulkead repairs this weekend. Fortunately it is in pretty good shape structurally with most of the rot in the footwells. I have purchased replacment ones from RN. Just how does I go about removing the remnants from the bulkhead?? It looks like they are held in place with spotwelds. On the door post side I have had some luck in separating the pieces but am I into real surgery along the top portions of the footwell? It appears that I am going to have to cut away lots of metal where the footwell connects to the vertical portion fo the bulhead.

    Once they are out what is the recomended process to reinstall and at the same time line everything up? Should they be held in with rivets or welded?

    Thanks in advance.

    Jim
  • LaneRover
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1743

    #2
    They need to be welded to have any real strength.
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

    Comment

    • scott
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1226

      #3
      I used an angle grinder w/ a diamond blade and a drummel to cut out the rot I didn't replace the whole footwell. Welded in the patch . Not the prettiest welds but the job is solid, wing and heater cover the uglier side and carpet covers the inside
      '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
      '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
      '76 Spitfire 1500
      '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

      Comment

      • 49coe
        Low Range
        • Aug 2008
        • 32

        #4
        Use a 1/4" drill to drill out the spotwelds. Where you can access the other side, drill completely through and when you install the new footwells, use the hole to make a new "spotweld". Where you cannot access the other side, just drill enough to break the weld. You should be able to see a line form between the pieces when you are through. Use an old screwdrive/chisel/scraper that you can fit between the two pieces to break/shear the remnants of the spotweld. Cut out the middle and bottom of the old footwells, but leave enough to grab onto so that you can wiggle/flex the old pieces out (in this case metal fatigue can be your friend) It is a tedious PITA, but it will leave you with a bulkhead that is ready to weld the new footwells into.

        Comment

        • SafeAirOne
          Overdrive
          • Apr 2008
          • 3435

          #5
          You could just use a spot weld cutter. There are different types, but 2 of the most common ones are:



          and

          --Mark

          1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

          0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
          (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

          Comment

          • KingSlug
            1st Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 177

            #6
            Ike Goss did a write up on this here:

            Visit The Wandering Hippo (my 109 S2A Ambulance).

            Comment

            • Tim Smith
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1504

              #7
              Yup. Drill out the spot welds.

              When you get around to reassembly, you will want those little holes to reattach the new foot well. The end product will look pretty clean if you take your time and avoiding bending bits out of shape as you are trying to refit it.
              Last edited by Tim Smith; 05-15-2009, 12:24 PM.

              Comment

              • thixon
                5th Gear
                • Jul 2007
                • 909

                #8
                Hi Crash,

                Congrats on tackling the bulkhead. Don't bother with the spotweld cutter. Drill straight through each spotweld. Someone above mentioned a 1/4" bit, which will work just fine, but you can go a little smaller if you wish.

                If you look at the bulkhead, its pretty modular in design. You're mostly dealing with spot welds. However, on the engine side, you'll have to grind the welds away that hold the triangular stiffeners in place. You shouldn't have to cut away any metal toward the top and side portions. Send some photos ASAP so we can diagnose.

                The footboxes will come out pretty easy once you get all the welds drilled/ground out. Wha I'm about to recommend may not be the favorite of everyone else on this board, but its whats worked for me on body panel fab/repair on rovers and other cars. Fit the new footboxes up using self tapping sheet metal screws. You'll probably have to do a little trimming on the new boxes to get everything to fit up right, so don't let that scare you. My recommendation would be to screw it together with enough screws to hold it together off the frame. Then, install it on the frame of the truck (self made jig!), and then start screwing it up tight with more screws till its sucked together and solid. At this point, you end up with a non permanent solid assembly that is easily taken apart if you did make a big boo-boo.

                Then pull it off the truck (if you want), and start removing screws one at a time, and plug welding with rossette welds. If you can already weld, then you know what I'm talking about. If not, then let us know, and plenty of people on the board can go over the technique to acheive a good strong rosette.

                I was brief, did'nt want to write a book. If you have questions post 'em. Also, post some pics of where you are the project, and we can help more.

                Good luck!
                Travis
                '66 IIa 88

                Comment

                • 49coe
                  Low Range
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 32

                  #9
                  You can use a smaller bit, but I like the 1/4" because it gives you enough space to start the weld on the other piece and then bring the puddle into the piece with the hole in it. With a smaller hole, I think that alot of the time you are just filling the hole but not getting good penetration into the piece you are trying to weld it to.

                  Comment

                  • thixon
                    5th Gear
                    • Jul 2007
                    • 909

                    #10
                    49COE,

                    I was'nt trying to ding you, just making a statement (maybe he did'nt have a 1/4 bit ).

                    Concerning penetration on a rosette, I generally hold the torch steady in the center once I finish my circle and fill the hole. I watch the puddle as I'm holding steady, and wait to see it begin to get heavy and sink just a little. By this point I've usually gotten excellent penetration.
                    Travis
                    '66 IIa 88

                    Comment

                    • Bertha
                      3rd Gear
                      • Nov 2007
                      • 384

                      #11
                      Originally posted by 49coe
                      I like the 1/4" because it gives you enough space to start the weld on the other piece and then bring the puddle into the piece with the hole in it. With a smaller hole, I think that alot of the time you are just filling the hole but not getting good penetration into the piece you are trying to weld it to.
                      +1 excellent advice -especially to a beginner dealing with it for the first time. Any smaller on the hole is asking for trouble.
                      1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
                      1971 88 (restored and as new)
                      1967 88 (the next project)

                      Comment

                      • Crash
                        Low Range
                        • May 2008
                        • 56

                        #12
                        Wow

                        I will post a few pic's tomorrow!

                        Jim

                        Comment

                        • Crash
                          Low Range
                          • May 2008
                          • 56

                          #13









                          Started to drill out the spot welds. Made good progress and will be back at it in the morning. Discoverd a hairline crack along the top of the "flange" the footwell attaches to along the top where it transitions from the angle to vertical. Does not show in the photos. Its been a long time since I welded anything but I suspect this will be a good way to reaquire my technique!

                          Hard to see the spotwelds in order to drill them out! Maybe it just my lighting.

                          Jim
                          Last edited by Crash; 05-16-2009, 08:40 AM.

                          Comment

                          • 49coe
                            Low Range
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 32

                            #14
                            I find them by feel alot of the time, also, if you can run a sander over the area or even a sanding block they will show up because they are slightly dimpled. I usually go around and use a marker to put a dot on all of them before I start to drill. Have fun.

                            Comment

                            • thixon
                              5th Gear
                              • Jul 2007
                              • 909

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Bertha
                              +1 excellent advice -especially to a beginner dealing with it for the first time. Any smaller on the hole is asking for trouble.
                              Bertha,
                              Just curious. Why would it be asking for trouble?
                              Travis
                              '66 IIa 88

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