Roverdrive vs Fairey OD's

[jp-]

Gregor,

I don't know what your linkage looks like, but a spacer washer behind the big bolt that holds the handle assembly on should stop the rattle.

[greenmeanie]

JP
Your right. I'm just being incredibly lazy about it as I have had my 101 in the garage for rebuild for the last year or so. In an extreme case of procrastination I seem more motivated to rebuild my V8 than spend the 1/2 hour or so to install a washer.

Cheers
Gregor

[giorgio]

Teri Ann,

Thanks for the in depth reply. I hate to admit this, but it was a little over my head when it comes to R&P (ring & pinion, I suppose) final drive ratios. Can you just swap those out? I do not think that is something I would personally tackle. Where might I get that done? I think I could install the Roverdrive myself, except perhaps for welding the 2" extension on to the bracket.

I have only owned this Land Rover for a few months. It is in pretty good original condition, with the major exception that most of the Carawagon bits have been removed. I doubt if I will take it seriously off roading.

I am opening a small nursery and garden center, and I thought that it would make a good eyecatching "company" truck for hauling plants and supplies. I have owned a 1973 Series III 88 for around 15 years, but rarely even drive it anymore. I also have an older Dodge Military Power Wagon to do the really dirty work.

I was hoping to reduce the revs. At even moderate highway speeds, it sounds like it is wound up pretty tight. I need to install a tach, just to see what is actually going on at 55 mph, I guess.

Thanks again!

Giorgio

[TeriAnn]

Teri Ann,

Thanks for the in depth reply. I hate to admit this, but it was a little over my head when it comes to R&P (ring & pinion, I suppose) final drive ratios. Can you just swap those out? I do not think that is something I would personally tackle. Where might I get that done?

R&P = ring and pinion gearset.

Depending upon the carrier and gear set used some are a direct bolt on replacement & some require a spacer. The company that sells them to you will be able to guide you through what parts you need. Chances are there is at least one shop in your area tht is experiences with setting up R&P gears.

If you opt for a ring & pinion, I suggest a 4.1 and not the 3.54. Both will probably require spacer.

TeriAnn

[yorker]

R&Ps arent cheap but there is a set of 4.10 ones for sale right now on Discoweb. ~$700 for F+R HD 4.10's from Equipe 4*4 5spddisco is selling htem.

[giorgio]

Thanks for the info....I will check it out.

Giorgio

[yorker]

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31718

[msggunny]

4:1 R&P

Is the price you quoted, $700, for just the Ring and Pinion or for 2 3rd members with the gears installed?

[yorker]

Just F+R R+P, they ain't cheap!

You'll need spacers too, but like TAW said this might be the best way for you to go, instead of an OD or HRTC.

For comparison's sake GBR asks $395 a set and I doubt this is an up to date price:

http://greatbasinrovers.com/rpgears.html#4.1

[Jeff Aronson]

Engine Power and Overdrives

Jim, you make a good point, quoting Mike Smith of East Coast Rover. To be effective, an overdrive or a higher gearing transfer case does require that the engine be producing reasonable power.

My rebuilt engine is at least 10 years old, maybe 12. i also installed 16" wheels and an overdrive. Since then time, I've put over 200,000 miles on it. When I bought my first Fairey, the car had a lot more power than it does now. The car could cruise in overdrive on the highways even up hills. That doesn't happen now. I'm shifting in and out of overdrive on hills a lot more than I did earlier.

I, too, like having the original ratios in my transfer case. I just recognize that the high range gearing designed for 1950's driving isn't as effective in 2007.


Jeff