brake fluid question

[chefplw]

I finally got the parabolics and new shocks from our host installed. had a few set backs along the way. biggest was condition of rear axle case( broken shock mounts and rust thru in large area of lower support truss?) found good deal on used one with fairly new bearings and brakes ( thanks forrest). the only comment for our hosts is that maybe the package should include all the hardware also or a part # for complete hardware kit specially for us new guys.
So my new ? is if Castrol GT LMA is a ok to use brake fluid. its the only thing I can find locally. strange looks when asking for girling even at the LR dealership. saw castrol brand on another parts house website. just trying to save shipping. but I m neverous after reading some of the threads on brake troubles.
Oh Yah, I screwed up and didnt wedge the pedal before removing rear end and drained the whole system. so any other tricks to bleeding would also be cool. thanks

[jac04]

Castrol GT LMA is good fluid to use.

[Drain Rovers2]

you have to order it from rovers north I thought because any other brake fluid will eat away at the brake system, i would feel safer doing that... shipping isnt too expensive is it?

[Eric W S]

It's not the supplier but the DOT desigantion of the fluid. You can get it from anywhere.

[Terrys]

Oh Yah, I screwed up and didnt wedge the pedal before removing rear end and drained the whole system. so any other tricks to bleeding would also be cool. thanks

You didn't screw up. Periodic flush and replacement is a good thing.
Startby filling your master cylinder.
If you're doing it by yourself, the only easy way is to go to the autoparts store and buy a HandyVac hand vacuum pump. It's such a useful tool, you'll love having it in your toolbox anyway.
Get a box wrench the size of your bleed screws, put it on the bleed screw and connect the hand vacuum pump to the nipple end and pull as much vacuum as you can. Make sure you have the collection bottle in between the wheel cyl and the pump, to collect fluid as you're bleeding.Starting with the wheel cylinder the furthest from the MC, proceeding to the closest. Crack the bleed screw and let the fluid flow until you have NO air bubbles present in the clear tubing. Always shut the bleed screw as the vacuum gage gets to zero. When doing the first, then 2nd wheel, stop aftert the first cycle, and check the fluid in the MC, keeping it topped off.
If you don't want to buy the vacuum pump, and have a helper (always good to get the SO involved) have them pump the pedal several times, until they get some resistance, hold the pedal down, you crack the screw and let the fluid out. Make sure they don't let up on the pedal until you have tightened the bleed screw, or you'll just draw air back into the line.
109s can be a pain to bleed the old (2 people, pumping up the pedal)way, but the hand pump makes it easy.
Often times, bleeding the fronts (after the rears have been done) is simply a matter of opening the bleed screw and letting the fluid and air drain with gravity, until just fluid is coming out.
Some people insist that putting a piece of rubber hose on the nipple and into a can of fluid is necessary, and this is OK to collect the draining fluid, as opposed to letting it go all over your driveway, but in most cases, and with a 109, all cases, it won't get all the air out of the rear line unless the pedal is pumped up and forces out the air.

[yank]

I think silicone fluid is ok. Its easier to find.

[greenmeanie]

On later trucks with the SIII style servo assisted brakes be careful pumping the brakes when bleeding. When there is no/little fluid in the system repeated vigorous pumping of the brake pedal can crack the bakelite disc in the servo. The risk of doing this reduces as the system fills but intially a gentle progressive foot feeling for the end of the pedal travel is what you want.

[chefplw]

You didn't screw up. Periodic flush and replacement is a good thing.
Startby filling your master cylinder.
If you're doing it by yourself, the only easy way is to go to the autoparts store and buy a HandyVac hand vacuum pump. It's such a useful tool, you'll love having it in your toolbox anyway.
Get a box wrench the size of your bleed screws, put it on the bleed screw and connect the hand vacuum pump to the nipple end and pull as much vacuum as you can. Make sure you have the collection bottle in between the wheel cyl and the pump, to collect fluid as you're bleeding.Starting with the wheel cylinder the furthest from the MC, proceeding to the closest. Crack the bleed screw and let the fluid flow until you have NO air bubbles present in the clear tubing. Always shut the bleed screw as the vacuum gage gets to zero. When doing the first, then 2nd wheel, stop aftert the first cycle, and check the fluid in the MC, keeping it topped off.
If you don't want to buy the vacuum pump, and have a helper (always good to get the SO involved) have them pump the pedal several times, until they get some resistance, hold the pedal down, you crack the screw and let the fluid out. Make sure they don't let up on the pedal until you have tightened the bleed screw, or you'll just draw air back into the line.
109s can be a pain to bleed the old (2 people, pumping up the pedal)way, but the hand pump makes it easy.
Often times, bleeding the fronts (after the rears have been done) is simply a matter of opening the bleed screw and letting the fluid and air drain with gravity, until just fluid is coming out.
Some people insist that putting a piece of rubber hose on the nipple and into a can of fluid is necessary, and this is OK to collect the draining fluid, as opposed to letting it go all over your driveway, but in most cases, and with a 109, all cases, it won't get all the air out of the rear line unless the pedal is pumped up and forces out the air.

you say to start at furthest wheel from MC work to closests. I thought that the green bible said to start closest work away from MC. does the order change because your using a vacuum pump.( did buy one for the tool box).

[Terrys]

You're correct; it does, and I did it that way for years, but for whatever reason, when I bought my first handpump, I switched, and found I can do it better, without any repeats. Everyone developes a prefered method if they do enough, and I even met a guy who insisted that it was easier to bleed a system when the fluid was cold than when it was warm. He either kept the brake fluid in the fridge, or put it in well before doing a brake job, I can't remember which (he just died, and while I learned alot from the guy, he was quirky) His theory was if you weren't moving fast enough, an air bubble you pulled down the system, would start to go back up towards the MC if you stopped to fill the MC, answer the phone, whatever.