leaf Spring mods can you alter em??

[glbft1]

Got a another question on springs, heard you can remove some leaf springs and make the ride much better, has anybody done this???
if so how was it and which ones did you remove???
Thanks
Greg

[Eric W S]

Your confusing leaf springs with Parabolic springs, which have fewer leaves by design.

[KingSlug]

I think Ike Goss and TeriAnn have some info on this. TeriAnn actually tore her leaves apart and put teflon tape on them so they move easier. Ike has removed some leaves and generally moves his springs 2" rear ward making an 88" to a 90".

Jared

[Firemanshort]

I had 4 leaf british parabolic springs on the rear of my 3 door 109. That was TOO much spring. I took the spring pack apart and removed one leaf. That softened the ride a bit and was freakin' easy to do.

I beleive you could do the same thing with an 11 pack set of regular springs.

[alaskajosh]

I did the process, invented by who-knows-who and popularized by Terriann, of Breaking apart the LR spring packs, cleaning them up, applying the UHMW plastic tape, and reassembling.

It was very labor intensive. And I have real doubts about that tape holding up once road grit or mud is introduced.

So far I've only driven it on short test drives on my horrible road (Camel Trophy scouting team might have considered this road as a posible venue) and was amazed at the performance... better than any modern vehicle I've experience on rough roads.

But if it breaks down as fast as I fear it will, it will not have been worth the effort.

Kind regards, Josh

[TeriAnn]

Got a another question on springs, heard you can remove some leaf springs and make the ride much better, has anybody done this???
if so how was it and which ones did you remove???

Yes leaves can be removed but each leaf removed will decrease the weight your vehicle can carry by an unknown amount. It can be considered suspension tuning by the Ouija method.

If you include differences in handed springs, Land Rover made a lot of different springs that fit your truck. What I suggest is to weigh each axle of your truck fully loaded for an off road trip or any on pavement hauling you intend to do. Then pick springs that are rated as close as possible to your vehicles actual weight and is rated for more than your truck's actual weight. It is a lot safer than just tossing out springs & hoping the result will work and you will likely get better results. BTW, the difference between a right and left handed spring is about 150 lb rating.

I think Ike Goss and TeriAnn have some info on this. TeriAnn actually tore her leaves apart and put teflon tape on them so they move easier. Ike has removed some leaves and generally moves his springs 2" rear ward making an 88" to a 90".

I used an ultra high density plastic that was specifically designed for use with heavy metal to metal sliding on assembly lines. It is a tough low friction material that is almost as slippery as teflon.

Series Land Rover wheels are not centered in the wheel arches. They are forward of centre. I moved my rear axle rearwards 1-1/2 inches to centre the rear wheel in the arch. I left the spring location stock and used an offset adapter between the axle and spring. offsetting the axle on a leaf spring is commonly done to reduce wheel hop. My tuck wheelbase measured 109-1/2 inches centre axle to centre axle and now measures 111 inches centre axle to centre axle. I also needed slightly longer rear propshaft.

I did the process, invented by who-knows-who and popularized by Terriann, of Breaking apart the LR spring packs, cleaning them up, applying the UHMW plastic tape, and reassembling.

It was very labor intensive. And I have real doubts about that tape holding up once road grit or mud is introduced.

Mine have been modified since 1996 and except for ends sliding sideways a little are still basically like new. And I've put a lot of miles on them since then. If you used the same stuff as I did they should hold up.

So far I've only driven it on short test drives on my horrible road (Camel Trophy scouting team might have considered this road as a posible venue) and was amazed at the performance... better than any modern vehicle I've experience on rough roads.

I keep suggesting to people that it is worth the try. Take new leaf springs rated for the actual weight of your truck, remove 90% of the leaf to leaf friction and you tend to get a much improved ride without the body side sway that comes with parabolics.

[lrdukdog]

Hey TW

I used an ultra high density plastic that was specifically designed for use with heavy metal to metal sliding on assembly lines. It is a tough low friction material that is almost as slippery as teflon.

Where can one find this? I do have new regular 109 SW springs and now would be the time to do this mod.
thanks
Jim Wolf

[alaskajosh]

I used an ultra high density plastic that was specifically designed for use with heavy metal to metal sliding on assembly lines. It is a tough low friction material that is almost as slippery as teflon.

Where can one find this? I do have new regular 109 SW springs and now would be the time to do this mod.
thanks
Jim Wolf

TeeDubya's got the McMaster-Carrs part number for that tape on her website. Buy two rolls. You'll have some extra and I wish I had doubled up near the ends of the leaves where they'll see the most wear.

Where the big-time labor came in (for me) was that even though my springs were virtually new, some rust had started between the leaves. I felt I should grind down to clean steel on the side that the tape would be rubbing, but especially where the tape needed to stick (top of each leaf).

This was a backbreaking CHORE. That rust was hard and like glazed on there! A grinder wheel would barely cut it. You'll think you've got it... but keep grinding and you'll see that, no, that's just a layer of glazed and hardened rust... the steel is underneath that.

Upgrade to greasable poly bushings while you're in there.

They really do ride nice with none of the mixed luck we see in para reviews. If TW says they last then great!! Worse case, it wears out and you're back to stock... oh well.

Kind regards, Josh

[enovey]

I think Ike Goss and TeriAnn have some info on this. TeriAnn actually tore her leaves apart and put teflon tape on them so they move easier. Ike has removed some leaves and generally moves his springs 2" rear ward making an 88" to a 90".

Jared

Can Ike or someone else elaborate on how the springs are moved back? Is an alternate spring from another vehicle used? Are the factory spring mounts moved on the frame? I am curious how this is done.
Thanks

[solihull109]

It's very simple. They're called COIL springs.
Bolt on some parabolics and call it a day. There is a host of spring options , but most require some welding/fabrication to relocate spring hangers, etc.
I think that using modified rear springs up front is the way to go, but I also prefer them over the axle too.

[junkyddog11]

Can Ike or someone else elaborate on how the springs are moved back? Is an alternate spring from another vehicle used? Are the factory spring mounts moved on the frame? I am curious how this is done.
Thanks

https://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/product_info.php?products_id=38&osCsid=bee56eaf01b6b04f99ca1aa506f37be5

this is the basic idea. I make my own plates. Depending on how far you move the axle you may have driveshaft lenght issues.

These guys also have nice leaf spring shims in steel. Handy for the pinion angle adjustment.