Connecting up second fuel tank

[jb_]

Hi, I'm new to this forum and I have a new (34 year old) Land Rover LWB series III.

I bought it from a friend who was looking to trade it on a car. He ended up buying a Golf. OMG. His fuel bills dropped dramatically!

I figured I'd pay him the price that a wrecker (breaker) would pay him, so A$500 later I have a farm vehicle. The vehicle is in mostly working order. One of the cylinders is low on compression, but it starts first or second time, so

The LR has a second fuel tank installed, but disconnected. I've fixed the fuel gauge on the RHS tank and the fuel pump is working fine.

I wonder if anyone can tell me how the second fuel tank is supposed to be connected? Is it a change-over thing where the fuel gauge on the second tank is switched instead of the main tank? And if so, is the fuel take-up hose
connected in parallel or something?


John

[SeriesShorty]

I can at least tell you how mine is hooked up.

Each tank has a seperate pick up tube for fuel and a seperate fuel sending unit. Fuel line runs from each tanks pick up tube up to the bulk head. Inside on the right hand side of the bulkhead I have a tank selector switch. In the engine compartment, mounted to the bulkhead near the fuel pump, is the valve (attached through the bulkhead to the tank selector switch I just mentioned) where the two fuel lines come together. A single line comes out of this valve and into the fuel pump. Also near this valve you should have a a switch where both of your fuel sending unit wires plug into.

Thats the basics of mine anyways. Hope that helps answer your question. Now if your second was added on by a previous owner, then there is no telling how it was put together.

And congrats on the new yard truck!

[jb_]

Thanks for the info.

I'll have a look and see if I can find a selector on my bulkhead. Maybe that wasn't fitted.

The LHS tank looks like it has a more modern fuel sensor unit than the RHS one so it's anybody's guess whether the second tank has ever been used.

[scott]

roves have a selector that changes tanks lines and sending units. but i being cheap put in a 3 way valve that you can get at marine shops. this will switch the routing from prime tank > fuel pump to aux tank > fuel pump. i put this valve on the blank plate that covers the e-brake handle hole for the LHD, mines a RHD. i also put a on-off-on toggle switch on the dash to switch the prime tank sending unit > fuel gauge to the aux tank sending unit > fuel guage. https://www.firstchoicemarine.com/p-...033302-10.aspx

i'm adding a fuel return line to deal with another issue and will either split the return line with another marine 3 way valve to direct the returning fuel to the tank i'm drawing on or break down and get me this fancy electric switch that has six ports which will allow me to switch the fuel tanks, fuel return line and fuel gauge signal with just one switch.

http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/fuel-tank-selector-valves/light-truck-6-port-motor-driven-valve?&forward=1

[Les Parker]

Scott,

Do you have a deisel fitted? Seems a bit of a palaver to route/plumb all those pipes.

[scott]

Scott,

Do you have a deisel fitted? Seems a bit of a palaver to route/plumb all those pipes.

petro, but i'm carbing w/ a weber 32/36 dgv. i've increase exhaust to 1.75" and am using a newer series iii manifold with curved (less angular) bends, a 2.5 liter cam and now i've got 1/4" fuel line into the float bowl and a 1/8" out of the float bowl. thought is fuel circulating back to the tanks will result in lower fuel temps which i believe may have led to fuel stavation issues on 100+ temp days

[jb_]

Thanks to those who responded. My LR doesn't have the change-over gear (as confirmed by the previous owner), and since I only intend to use the vehicle on my property, I think I can happily ignore the second tank. I'm not sure how many laps of my place I can do on a tank, but it has to be a lot. Hehehe.

So now it's on to the detent springs in the gearbox. I'm on a hill and having the LR jump out of gear is a bit unnerving.