What rust repair process is best?

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  • morgant
    1st Gear
    • Jun 2009
    • 170

    What rust repair process is best?

    I've been a POR-15 guy for the last 5+ years, but the multi-step process can be tedious. It's nice in Vermont that it likes humidity and will cure faster, but I do most of my repairs outdoors so sometimes I wish for only one or two drying processes instead of the 5+ (MarineClean, Metal Ready, plus two coats of POR-15 before you prime).

    So, what methods do you suggest?
    7
    The POR-15 process
    0%
    1
    Würth Rust Guard
    0%
    0
    RUST-MORT + Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound
    0%
    2
    You missed the best one...
    0%
    4
    rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
    1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
    2002 Discovery II SE

    CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

    SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.
  • Eric W S
    5th Gear
    • Dec 2006
    • 609

    #2
    Galvanize it. Whatever "it" is. Nothing else works as well or actually solves the issue...

    Comment

    • leafsprung
      Overdrive
      • Nov 2006
      • 1008

      #3
      Moving west will cure it

      Comment

      • Mercedesrover
        3rd Gear
        • Oct 2006
        • 343

        #4
        I've found Sem Rust-Shield to be better than anything else. Been using in on just about everything for six or seven years now and it holds up better than POR and is much better in the sun. If you're looking for black, make sure you order "gloss" black. The standard black is flat.

        Or galvanize it.
        www.seriestrek.com

        Comment

        • morgant
          1st Gear
          • Jun 2009
          • 170

          #5
          Originally posted by Eric W S
          Galvanize it. Whatever "it" is. Nothing else works as well or actually solves the issue...
          I'm assuming that cold galvanizing applied to patch jobs is not what you're referring to. :\

          Originally posted by leafsprung
          Moving west will cure it
          Moving west along the 44th parallel won't get me much out of the winter & roadsalt zone. Maybe southwest.

          Don't know if my Husky would agree though.
          rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
          1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
          2002 Discovery II SE

          CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

          SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.

          Comment

          • morgant
            1st Gear
            • Jun 2009
            • 170

            #6
            Originally posted by Mercedesrover
            I've found Sem Rust-Shield to be better than anything else.
            I'll definitely give that a shot next.
            rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
            1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
            2002 Discovery II SE

            CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

            SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.

            Comment

            • leafsprung
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1008

              #7
              I take it you have never actually BEEN west. I live at 44.058387 there is probably no road salt for nearly a thousand miles in any direction.

              Comment

              • TSR53
                5th Gear
                • Mar 2006
                • 733

                #8
                I agree with you Ike. I grew up in Saratoga, CA and lived in Lake Tahoe. If you happen to live in a "steppe" environment (ID, NV, NM, MT, high desert OR) then rust is NOT an issue. Even living at 6000+ ft the dryness is beyond what you can even think of with uber low 20% humidity, some times it was always in the teens...

                After living here in Vermont for 14 years. Rust IS an issue. Imagine cars that crumble as you drive - New England locals know all to well.

                We've tried them all here. Würth anti-schutz, Würth rost guard, POR-15, you name it. SEM is da kine followed up with paint, then Waxoyl.
                Cheers, Thompson
                Art & Creative Director, Rovers Magazine
                Rovers North, Inc.

                Comment

                • TSR53
                  5th Gear
                  • Mar 2006
                  • 733

                  #9
                  Originally posted by morgant
                  I'll definitely give that a shot next.
                  I've got a quart at home - I can bring to Rovers North for you to sample ;-)
                  Cheers, Thompson
                  Art & Creative Director, Rovers Magazine
                  Rovers North, Inc.

                  Comment

                  • morgant
                    1st Gear
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 170

                    #10
                    Originally posted by leafsprung
                    I take it you have never actually BEEN west. I live at 44.058387 there is probably no road salt for nearly a thousand miles in any direction.
                    Busted!

                    Looking at a globe again shows exactly how off I was. Always forget how much I've been skewed by flat, rotated images of the contiguous 48 states. Due west would, in deed, do the trick.

                    Originally posted by TSR53
                    After living here in Vermont for 14 years. Rust IS an issue. Imagine cars that crumble as you drive - New England locals know all to well.
                    Part of the reason I decided to go with a Land Rover. If I'm going to spend my summers fighting rust, I might as well do it on something that has a modular design and can at least be attacked region by reqion, even if a frame swap is eventually needed. Aluminum body panels won't hurt.

                    We've tried them all here. Würth anti-schutz, Würth rost guard, POR-15, you name it. SEM is da kine followed up with paint, then Waxoyl.
                    Glad to hear further votes for SEM, esp. from someone who's been through many of the options.
                    rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
                    1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
                    2002 Discovery II SE

                    CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

                    SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.

                    Comment

                    • greenmeanie
                      Overdrive
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 1358

                      #11
                      Originally posted by morgant
                      Busted!

                      Aluminum body panels won't hurt.
                      Oh don't be too sure of that. They won't oxidize in the same manner as the steel components but they will still hurt. The general mode of failure is the steel components start to rust, then the aluminium panels which are usually not coated with anything more than allodyne where they mate up, are taken out by galvanic corrosion as the steel strips them of electrons to feed its death. I can post pictures of a whole truck's worth of knackered ally panels.

                      Ask any aviation mechanic about airframe corrosion and you'll receive an education on just how vulnerable aluminium is.

                      You are best to paint all the surfaces of your aluminium panels atleast and then you can get into seperating the mating surfaces with plastic etc.

                      Comment

                      • Bertha
                        3rd Gear
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 384

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Mercedesrover
                        I've found Sem Rust-Shield to be better than anything else. Been using in on just about everything for six or seven years now and it holds up better than POR and is much better in the sun. If you're looking for black, make sure you order "gloss" black. The standard black is flat.

                        Or galvanize it.
                        SEM is a great product. I had a frame fall to pieces years ago thanks to POR-never again
                        1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
                        1971 88 (restored and as new)
                        1967 88 (the next project)

                        Comment

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