Door seal alternatives

[NickDawson]

Hey Folks,

I've been loving every second of being a Series truck owner! Just driving around town is great.

As others have suggested, my "first project" will most likely be learning how to take care of things - changing fluids, etc

I am however interested in replacing the door seals and upgrading the headlights. The gang at RN has me all sorted on the headlights and a relay.

However, they were wonderfully honest in what it takes to repair the door seals. I'm curious if there is a "glue on" fix? Has anyone found anything at the hardware store that makes a good alternative? I've found lots of cheap foam stuff- am I missing anything?

I'm not opposed to doing it the right way, but I understand it involves riveting the seals to the door, and my riveting experience with the soft top was not that much fun.

Thanks!
-N

[jac04]

Many, many years ago I bought a roll of door seal watherstripping from DAP. It needed some trimming to fit into the channels around the doors, and I glued it in place with 3M weatherstripping adhesive. It sealed very well and held up for 15 years (until I sold the vehicle).
You can try something like this, but I don't know how well the adhesive lasts:

http://www.carparts.com/Trim-Universal-Weatherstrip/GP_2008661_N_111+10718+600022824_10618.car

[lstrvr]

One alternative that seems to be the perfect answer from those that have done it, is to use Defender door seals. Their seal clips over the edge of the door surround, so trimming the small edge of the door surround off is required. One local Land Rover Restorer up here does this on all his trucks and it looks and works perfectly. A good friend of mine who also posts on this board just did it to his truck and is very happy with the results. Rovah Farm sells the seals for cheaper than anyone else around, and they are very affordable. I have used aftermarket door seals that glue on, but have never found one that works as good as the defender seals. If you go with a 'universal' seal, try running a strip of weatherstripping foam around the door itself, where it contacts the seal for better contact.

Hopefully Josh will see this and post his experiences with the Defender seal installation!

[alaskajosh]

Yes the Defender door seals work beautifully!! There is a little labor involved in trimming about 1/8" off of the door seal channels. The seals are a perfect fit in the opening.

While the (aftermarket, but perfectly good) Defender seals are remarkably cheap, to do a really professional job one should upgrade to anti-burst door latches at the same time and that part gets a little expensive. The reason for this is the old wedgy-slammy type would probably ruin the seal bulb by the latch.

The results have been well worth it for me! The door seals up air and water tight. I crossed a river the other day with water almost to the bottom of the windows and only got the smallest dribble in on the floor. Compare to my fairly new Series seals that had gaps that one could flick a cigarette butt through.

Good luck with your LR!
Kind regards, Josh

[GaryBaxter]

I bought the weatherstripping in a large length from Rovah Farm and used Gorilla Glue and am very happy with the results. I also used those metal binder clips from Staples as clamps while the glue dried; you'll need the medium size for around the doors and the larger size for under the doors.

[daveb]

the foam glue-on type should be used with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. put it on both pieces, then let it set up. once it is dry to the touch, put the seal in place and it will stick instantly.

90/110 type seals are so far superior to the early series stuff it isn't even funny. like josh says you need to trim the lip off. i used thenm on my 109 with the old 11a latches and I just had to trim away some of the bulb where the latch passes by.

I bought the weatherstripping in a large length from Rovah Farm and used Gorilla Glue and am very happy with the results. I also used those metal binder clips from Staples as clamps while the glue dried; you'll need the medium size for around the doors and the larger size for under the doors.

[thixon]

You can buy generic, press on door weatherstrip, by the roll. What you're looking for is similar to what others are indicating as "defender" style weatherstrip. The link I've given you is good for all types of weatherstripping, from window channel to, to door weatherstripping, to anything in between. Call 'em up, and let 'em know what your trying to accomplish. They'll help.

You can also buy rolls of this stuff at any autoparts store if your in a hurry. As usual, you'll pay more for it there (a lot more).

One more thing, you'll have to cut it, but its an easy project. If you take your time, the results will be excellent.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT go to home depot/lowes/menards and buy the stick on foam window and door weatherstripping and attempt to glue/stick it in place. You will be much happier with the performance and look of the automotive press on style stripping. You'll thank me later, trust me.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com

[thixon]

Nick,

Here are some cross sections of the type of seal I'm talking about. The channel presses over the ridge that the original seals rivetted onto. The profile you're after is the one on the top right (soft part of the seal is a circle).

Good luck, and have fun.

[thixon]

whoops, it did'nt attach.

[South Larry]

Listen to Travis- The defender seals work like a charm!! Rivets on the canvas top?? Not a good idea--use bolts and nuts!
LRG

[NickDawson]

thanks gang.

which lip has to be cut off?
is it the inside?


or the outside around the door?


and what happens around my softop post and sill? Do I need to order duplicate parts for my hard top?

[Jim-ME]

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

[daveb]

nah, the defender seal is held on by spring pressure of the metal insert. just peel it off when you change roofs and then press it onto the new roof.

don't cut your doors dude. really. don't...

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

[NickDawson]

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

Whats the best way to remove that lip? Do I need to seal the bare metal in any way?

[Jim-ME]

Nick,
I don't know. I've always used the rivet on type.
Jim
PS
Did you get your soft top squared away?