"EP" mark on flywheel?

[SeriesShorty]

So I'm trying to get my timing nailed down. With it being early IIa/ex-MoD I have no pointer on the pulley, just the flywheel marks.

I've spun my flywheel using the starting handle and the only marks that I have come across are "EP" with a couple of lines across from it. This must be pretty close as my rotor is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap and the truck does run, so my timing isn't very far offf.

*Has anyone else seen these marks on their flywheel? And if so, how close are they to the actual TDC timing marks from the EP? With my luck lately, I'm betting the marks I need are on that rusty spot of flywheel I keep turning near.

Thanks all!

[gudjeon]

I believe the EP means exhaust peak for #1 cylinder. This mark is for deisel timing and/or setting up the timing chain. I may be wrong on this as I have never used this mark for anything. The timing marks are there somewhere, but they usually very feint. To make sure you are in the ballpark, have someone turn the motor over by hand while you have a finger covering the #1 spark plug hole. You can feel when the compression stoke is pushing against you and the moment it stops, you have reached #1 TDC. Now, you can contort your neck to peer inside the flywheel port to find the timing marks.

This operation is easier with all the plugs out and you can rock the crank back and forth by twisting the fan, if you can.

[SeriesShorty]

I grabbed a soft wire bristled brush and shoved it in the inspection hole and held it against the flywheel while a helper turned the engine over a few times. That cleaned it up enough, and having a helper to turn made life so much easier, I was able to find the timing marks!!!

I have my pointer set at exactly 6 TDC. Now check out my picture.

Sumtin' ain't quite right, eh? If I understand correctly, it looks like my rotor is corresponding with #2 instead of #1. Am I looking at that right?

[jac04]

You're looking at it wrong. It's not what cylinder the rotor is pointing towards, it's what location on the CAP that the rotor is pointing toward. Looks like #1 to me.

[SeriesShorty]

So everything is right then? Dang, I was hoping that was an obvious cause for my issues. Back to square one.

Thanks Jac and Gudgeon!

[SafeAirOne]

What issues are you still having? Is this that problem you were having after that rain several weeks ago?

[SeriesShorty]

Hey Mark! Very distantly related to the rain issue. Voltage regulator went bad thus taking out my coil with it. Decided to switch over to civilian components due to cost while leaving rest of truck 24v. Used voltage converter to drop 24 to 12, off the shelf coil, added ballast resistor and got ahold of a 25D distributor. Ran great for a short trip after the conversion, then started giving me fuel symptons again (I've had fuel issues from day 1). Decided to swap to Rochester from the Weber due to jets getting clogged so easily. Got Rochester in and upgraded to a better low pressure electric pump and installed closer to the tank, removed fuel tank switchover valve and installed new fuel line to help eliminate those as issues. Ran beautifully, low rpm idle, quiet and smooth as a sewing machine without throttle linkage hooked up. Hooked up the linkage and buttoned everything up and back to running like crap again.

I just can't seem to get the timing and carb tuned in, and I think I've got some issues with my throttle linkage maybe. Got rough idle, then it revs really high, accelerator sticking, running rich (plugs very fouled and black smoke pouring out exhaust), blah blah blah. I've got a lot of tinkering to do. At least I hope it's only timing and carb tuning needed. I'm tired just thinking about it all.