Series IIA hubs heating up

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  • LndRvr64
    Low Range
    • Aug 2007
    • 34

    Series IIA hubs heating up

    Hi all,

    My IIA was sitting for @ 6 months and now when I took it back out on the road the front hubs are heating up to the point I can't keep my hand on one of them. I have standard hubs. The front differential is topped up with gear oil. Do the bearings need to be packed with grease?

    Thanks.

    Jack
  • navydevildoc
    1st Gear
    • Feb 2009
    • 141

    #2
    Originally posted by LndRvr64
    Hi all,

    My IIA was sitting for @ 6 months and now when I took it back out on the road the front hubs are heating up to the point I can't keep my hand on one of them. I have standard hubs. The front differential is topped up with gear oil. Do the bearings need to be packed with grease?

    Thanks.

    Jack
    Do you know if the hubs have been converted to grease packed? They may still be oil filled hubs. Look behind your wheels to see if there is oil all over the bottom half of the brake drum and brake backing plate. You may have a blown oil seal and all the oil drained out.
    2005 LR3
    1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

    Comment

    • Jim-ME
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1379

      #3
      There may be a small allen head screw which will allow you to add 90W gear oil to the hubs. If you have them add oil. If you don't repack your wheel bearings and fill the hub about 1/2 way with grease. Make sure your seals are good. On second thought I would go ahead and repack your wheel bearings after making sure the actual brearings and races are still good. Another thing to check is if the brakes are sticking. Does the whole drum get hot too? If so it may be a brake problem not a bearing problem.
      Jim

      Comment

      • LaneRover
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1743

        #4
        There is a chance that the hubs had leaked all the oil out while sitting for 6 months. The hubs get their gear oil from the differential, in your drive is there a chance that not enough oil got out to the hubs? (usually it runs along the spinning axle shaft to get out to the hub) If the hubs were empty it might take a while for enough oil to get out there.

        I would even try jacking up the wheel opposite the one that got hot. That will get some more of the oil down to the wheel that got hot. You might have to jack it up quite a bit.

        Then take it out for a short drive and see if that made a difference.
        1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
        1965 109 SW - nearly running well
        1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
        1969 109 P-UP

        http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

        Comment

        • scott
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1226

          #5
          the hubs get their oil from the swivel ball oil. back of swivle ball housing, 1/2" square plug.
          '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
          '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
          '76 Spitfire 1500
          '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

          Comment

          • KevinNY
            4th Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 484

            #6
            I'd bet on the brakes sticking before a bearing issue, Does the wheel spin freely when jacked up?
            The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

            Comment

            • LaneRover
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1743

              #7
              Originally posted by scott
              the hubs get their oil from the swivel ball oil. back of swivle ball housing, 1/2" square plug.
              The hubs are connected to the differential. Oil travels between the two.

              Yes it is definitely best to fill up the swivel balls directly and using the 1/2" square plug is much better than my idea. At the same time, gear oil travels along the spinning axle half shafts from the differential to the hubs.

              I was saying that filling the differential will eventually get oil to the hubs.
              1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
              1965 109 SW - nearly running well
              1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
              1969 109 P-UP

              http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

              Comment

              • LndRvr64
                Low Range
                • Aug 2007
                • 34

                #8
                Thanks for all the tips. Will apply them tonight and tomorrow and see if the issue is solved.

                Jack

                Comment

                • jac04
                  Overdrive
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 1884

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LaneRover
                  The hubs are connected to the differential. Oil travels between the two.
                  Not on the front hubs. There is an axle case oil seal on each end that separates the axle housing from the swivel pin housings. Oil will not travel between the two.

                  FYI: On the later Series 3s with greased type hub bearings, there is another oil seal that separates the hub assemblies from the swivel pin housings.

                  Comment

                  • LaneRover
                    Overdrive
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 1743

                    #10
                    Originally posted by jac04
                    Not on the front hubs. There is an axle case oil seal on each end that separates the axle housing from the swivel pin housings. Oil will not travel between the two.

                    FYI: On the later Series 3s with greased type hub bearings, there is another oil seal that separates the hub assemblies from the swivel pin housings.

                    Did not know that! Thanks!

                    I too would look into the brakes being the culprit.

                    Actually my first answer should have been: Ya, there is a seal but how many of them actually seal on a rover?
                    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                    1969 109 P-UP

                    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

                    Comment

                    • SafeAirOne
                      Overdrive
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 3435

                      #11
                      Add me to the "dragging brakes" list. I don't think your shoes are retracting fully when you let up on the brake pedal. It has happened to me before when a rubber nugget prevented brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder (like a check valve).
                      --Mark

                      1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                      0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                      (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                      Comment

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