Dipping the Bulkhead, Painless harness aka Reality check

[ScottT]

While trying to sort out some wiring issues (battery drain and River Runner LED lights), that I have yet to get right, looking at the truck and reading some posts an odd and bold idea occurred to me that I’ve toyed but now I may actually move forward on it.

I am looking to pull the bulkhead, blast it, galvanize it and then use this time to swap out the wiring to a Painless weather resistant harness. Mounting the fuse block would be in the cabin somewhere, under the seat may be out due to a radio and other gear.

The bulkhead has some rust that you can see, no where as bad as my S III I had but would the issues in the pictures be covered/filled by zinc or require work before hand? The hole are smallish, I sealed them with Wurth Rust Guard years ago.


















I have read all the exchanges of OEM vs. after market and don’t want to reopen that can.

I am looking for some input from others that have gone similar routes or had bulkheads in similar repair.


Thanks

[solihull109]

Your bulkhead really isn't that bad. However, even if you used a high build primer, I don't think that will cover. Maybe multiple coats, but then the mils start adding up and it looks horrible. Be careful when blasting, not to get carried away. Galvanizing is hard not get any runs, I've personally seen a few, and they all had minor( some major) runs....
When we repair a bulkhead, we dip ours and make sure primer gets everywhere,i.e-like up inside the door posts etc. Like I said though, your bulkhead isn't too bad from just the pics you posted.

[jac04]

You will need to repair any rust holes by welding in new pieces of steel before the galvanizing is done. Also, any areas that are pitted from corrosion will not get "filled in" by the galvanizing.
After you blast it, you will have a much better idea of the real condition of the bulkhead.

[ScottT]

Those are the worst spots besides a nickel size hole in the passenger footwell. A friend said he can patch it without any trouble

I am thinking of getting out ahead of any issues. The truck already has a galvanized frame and a stainless support, bulkhead is the next point.

Will the smallish holes by the windscreen bracket fill in with zinc or need welds (flaking on front)?

I'm not worried about zinc runs or aesthetics, as long as I can get it remounted.

Any advice on the blasting or dipping would be appreciated.

Your bulkhead really isn't that bad. However, even if you used a high build primer, I don't think that will cover. Maybe multiple coats, but then the mils start adding up and it looks horrible. Be careful when blasting, not to get carried away. Galvanizing is hard not get any runs, I've personally seen a few, and they all had minor( some major) runs....
When we repair a bulkhead, we dip ours and make sure primer gets everywhere,i.e-like up inside the door posts etc. Like I said though, your bulkhead isn't too bad from just the pics you posted.

[jac04]

The small holes may 'bridge over' and fill with zinc, but I wouldn't count on it. Weld repair & metal finish everything before galvanizing. Also, the galvanizing will not hide any imperfections such as grinding marks.

[57109]

I would look around for a place that can dip strip the whole thing, you'll get a cleaner job and less warpage from the Galvanising than blasting. And gas or TIG weld the repairs with spare steel from the Land Rover bulkhead. If you MIG it the weld beads are harder and will show as ridges when it's done. No comment on the Painless route...
Regards
Gord'n Perrott
Lamorna Garage
Seattle

[Firemanshort]

Echo the MIG welds will show through the galvy. I just did a home made bumper. I ground the various welds smooth and even sanded some of them. To the ***** eye, everything was all even and smooth and blended before the dip.

After the dip, every line from the welds were visable. No biggie for my bumper application on an off road truck. Just keep in mind if you want a real pretty finish when you are done.

[msggunny]

Let us know, or at least me know, if you go the painless route. I have a fuse block from them but i havent found anywhere i feel comfortable putting it right now. I think after i relocate my fuel tank to under the bed i may be able to rig something up under the seat, but it may be a PITA to get to as its the screw on side. My other option is to put it in my Tuffy center console, which may be my best bet over all.

[greenmeanie]

I have a Painless harness in the 109 I am building and I put in what was the tool box under the driver's seat. The BIG thing to be aware of in this location is that you either need to put in a bolt in cross member so that you can remove the gearbox from below (A good upgrade anyway) or put connectors in the harness to permit is to be separated so that you can remove the seat box for gearbox work.

I needed to put in a revised cross member anyway for gearbox change so it works for me. On the earlier 2 wiper motor trucks Thixon has a good location in the parcel tray.

[ScottT]

Already have the removable cross member.
As for box location I was thinking of bulkhead or footwell.
In the past I've have rain water issues in tool box. Down the gutter, through seal, down the seat box and into the toolbox. This was with my 88 and haven't had as many with the 109 but I like having the fuse box as high as possible.

Will it fit in the dash panel?

I have a Painless harness in the 109 I am building and I put in what was the tool box under the driver's seat. The BIG thing to be aware of in this location is that you either need to put in a bolt in cross member so that you can remove the gearbox from below (A good upgrade anyway) or put connectors in the harness to permit is to be separated so that you can remove the seat box for gearbox work.

I needed to put in a revised cross member anyway for gearbox change so it works for me. On the earlier 2 wiper motor trucks Thixon has a good location in the parcel tray.

[greenmeanie]

Already have the removable cross member.
As for box location I was thinking of bulkhead or footwell.
In the past I've have rain water issues in tool box. Down the gutter, through seal, down the seat box and into the toolbox. This was with my 88 and haven't had as many with the 109 but I like having the fuse box as high as possible.

Will it fit in the dash panel?

I'll confess to doing quite a lot of work on my seat box to make it water tight until you get to the cover. I also added an NPT plug so that any water that does get in there can be drained easily but not necessarily something you'd want to do daily. On my truck the dizzy will drown before I get over the top of the seat box so I am not worried.

As to fit, it all depends on the fuse box in the harness you choose.

[ScottT]

As to fit, it all depends on the fuse box in the harness you choose.

One the weather resistant ones, as for slots not 100% on that.

What did you go with?

[greenmeanie]

IIRC my weather resitant one has the small blade fuses and is a painless 10140. The fuse panel is waterproof and very compact but also really expensive. I found someone who bought it and got cold feet so got a god deal. Of course, it is only as waterproof as the rest of the electric system and I'm not sure I want to get into marine realys etc. Again, my dizzy will drown so I have to ask whether it is necessary.

The EZ wiring ones are a lot cheaper but not waterproof. If you mount it in the location Thixon used (Look at the previous thread on painless vs OEM) you'll have a lot of other issues by the time that gets submerged.