Problems with bleeding brakes

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Nium
    4th Gear
    • Aug 2009
    • 400

    #16
    Same books different date

    Originally posted by bobzinak
    .. in my older white bible (not the green one)
    The "Repair Operation Manual" part # AKM8159 Part 1 and Part 2 (aka Green Bible) and the original "Repair Operation Manual" part # 606407 (Part 1) and part # 606408 (Part 2) aren't different. I have both copies and have yet to find any differences between the two. AKM8159 is suppose to incorporate "...all applicable workshop information apertaining to the Land-Rover circulated by means of Land-Rover Service News Letters up to Vol. 3, No.2" On the few occasions I've compared the same section between the two printings I've yet to find a difference. bobzinak I don't mean to be berating you so please don't take it that way. I just have personally never noticed a difference between the 2 printings.
    Walker
    1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
    88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD

    Comment

    • lew_sa
      Low Range
      • Dec 2006
      • 21

      #17
      I just replaced the MC, all WCs and brake lines on my '65 109. I bench bled the MC & reinstalled it. Then I compressed the wheel cylinders with clamps and bled them, but the pedal was still soft. I removed the brake backing plates up front & rotated them 180 degrees and re-bled the wheel cylinders. I had a couple big bubbles come from the front bleeder screws after I rotated them 180. Adjusting the brakes to get a firm pedal was probably the hardest thing, especially with new unbedded shoes.

      R/,
      Lew

      Comment

      • brucejohn
        2nd Gear
        • Jul 2009
        • 215

        #18
        I read where greenmeanie suggested rerouting the front lines so the bleeder is the upper cylinder rather than the lower. This seems like a good long term solution to removing the backing plate any time the brakes are done?
        1982 SIII 109 RHD petrol project.

        Comment

        Working...