fuel/water temp wiring

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  • Mud&Rox
    Low Range
    • Jun 2009
    • 15

    fuel/water temp wiring

    recently rewired my 68 IIA. now trying to get the water and fuel to work. could someone enlighten me to how? the bible shows a voltage stabalizer?
  • jac04
    Overdrive
    • Feb 2007
    • 1884

    #2
    Yes, there is a voltage stabilizer in the circuit. RN has them available. Just wire them per the wiring diagram in the service manual and they should work fine.

    Comment

    • Nium
      4th Gear
      • Aug 2009
      • 400

      #3
      Voltage stabilizer

      If you still have the voltage stabilizer you probably don't need a new one if you don't have one you'll need one. It drops the 12 volts to 10 volts because it allowed for more accurate gauges, at the time (1968), the originals were adjustable, so if you have more then 10 VDC coming out or less then 10 VDC you can dial it in to be closer to 10 VDC. Your fuel/water temp gauges won't work on 12 VDC. Well at least not accurately.
      Walker
      1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
      88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD

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      • Mud&Rox
        Low Range
        • Jun 2009
        • 15

        #4
        tried the 12v and nuthing. so i dug the old one out i think is it about 1 1/4 by 3/4 and have 2 female and 2 male spades?

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        • Nium
          4th Gear
          • Aug 2009
          • 400

          #5
          Voltage stabilizer

          That should be it. Apply battery voltage and test the output voltage before you install it to make sure it's working. Output should be close to 10 - 10.5 VDC.

          Cheers
          Walker
          1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
          88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD

          Comment

          • alaskajosh
            2nd Gear
            • Sep 2007
            • 208

            #6
            And if you're using a digital multimeter expect to see wild readings between 4-13 volts... which presumably average out to a nominal 10v.

            Kind regards, Josh

            Comment

            • superstator
              2nd Gear
              • Aug 2008
              • 298

              #7
              Or get one of these solid-state jobbies:

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              Though like Nium said, the guages will work without one - they'll just read high all the time. If yours aren't reading at all, I'd suspect a fault somewhere else.
              '67 109 NADA #413 - rebuilding w/ TDI & galvy chassis.

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