Well I've just about had it. Set up the car with timing @ 10 degrees btdc and already had the 5000-7000ft jet in the Solex (these settings were used by another roverite who is very knowledgeable and used to live in my area). Let her run for an hour and got air bubbles again, watched the clear fuel filter empty and she stalled. I said, "that's it!"- and ran to NAPA. Bought/installed an electric fuel pump (rated at 1.4-4psi). Started her up and let her run for an hour. Fuel lines and carb nice and cool (actually the side of the Solex felt cold)....and then the fuel filter fuel level went down slowly and she stalled. Let it sit for a while and started up again. The electric fuel pump made a racket as it had to prime itself again. So I've replaced fuel lines, installed 3 mechanical and 1 electric fuel pump, a new pickup tube & inline fuel filter. This is my second refurbished Solex- replaced the first when these symptoms first began and hadn't thought of vapor lock. I've taken temperature out of the equation so I'm thinking it has to be excess pressure mixed with altitude. I'm thinking whoever rebuilt the two Solex carbs may have made the same mistake twice- or there's some adjustment that I need to make to the carb itself to lower the pressure that the fuel pump(s) have had to fight against. Anyone familiar with the inner workings of Solex carbs? What part of the carb would increase pressure in the fuel lines?
Vapor lock woes
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When it stalls run around and pull the fuel cap off. If it comes off with a fight or you hear a vacuum sound you may have a faulty breather. I also had this problem and fixed it by drilling a 1/16th hole up under the lip of the fuel cap in the filler neck.
cheers, ryanComment
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I actually did- the line is running on the passenger's side frame rail under the bulkhead. When it hits the engine compartment it runs on the non-exhaust side over the cylinder head cover (air from radiator shroud blows over it) to the carb. No heat sources near the line- and the lines feel cool when running. I'm stumped!1960 Series II SWB
1994 NAS D90 ST
1963 SIIa SWB (sold)
1971 SIIa SWB (sold)
2000 Disco SII (sold)
1995 RR Classic (sold)Comment
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Are you absolutely positive that you are getting the enough flow from the tank?
You state that the tank, and lines are all new, but is there something preventing flow anyway? Like debris from the rebuild, or a stray piece of celophane obstructing the line inside the tank?
The "breather" theory mentioned aboved is a good idea as well."I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -OnslowComment
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Ok, try two tests to isolate the problem. Run the engine as you did prior when you installed the electric pump. First time do this with the gas cap off. If the problem still exists then get a 5 gal fuel can ( filled) and some poly fuel line. Hook it up to your electric pump and let the engine run as before. If there's no fuel starvation then you know the problem is between the tank and the pump, if there is then it's in the engine bay. If that's the case look to insulate the lines, add a heat shield and look at a better gasket for the carb/ manifold.94 D-90 tdi
72 Series IIIComment
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jay... any updates on this? i know its awhile ago but i'd like to know what you found out, i think mine may have some symptoms...Comment
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But if you are seeing bubbles in your fuel line, it never hurts to look for small air leaks in the fuel system either.
Carbs commonly used on the LR petrol four cylinder like high volume at low pressure. So if you are shopping for an electric fuel pump, shop for one that puts out about 3 or 4 lbs pressure. And they like to be mounted near the fuel tank. For an 88 the side of the frame member just in front of the tank would be a good place.
On the other hand the mechanical fuel pump may not be your problem if your engine is not overheating. My TR3 lives at 7000 feet, has basically the same size engine and is running a mechanical AC fuel pump (same as the LRs except for the mounting flange) and has no vapour lock issues.
If I were seeing bubbles North of the mechanical fuel pump, I would disassemble the pump and look for a small hole in the diaphragm or maybe a small chunk of something on the edge or the pump body being a little warped where the halves clamp the diaphragm. But that's just a guess.-
Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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Vapor Lock
JayGoss, did you ever get this figured out?
I too live in Colorado (down in Golden) and have been struggling with vapor lock for several years in my truck.
This summer I started using clear gas (no ethanol) from a Lakewood Conoco and it seems to have solved the problem.
If you have found another solution, I'd love to hear it as clear gas is not the most affordable or convenient solution.Seth
'67 IIa 109 Station Wagon (the daughter's toy)
2003 XC70 (for the dog)
2006 XC70 (for the wife/daughter/son)
2002 650 Dakar (for trip planning purposes)Comment
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I can vouche for this...Gudjeon was kind enough to give me the info/part numbers he used and it seems to have worked for my truck.
QUOTE=gudjeon;60219]I will say this one final time and then not a word from me. Electric pump with recirculating filter (Chrysler 80's), No locky-locky[/QUOTE]
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