More ticking...

[griswald]

Ok,

In an earlier thread, I mentioned a distinct ticking sometimes on start up (somedays it is there, others not) The ticking is motor speed related and then goes away after 2 to 5 secs.

Now I am getting a ticking from time to time coming to a stop or if the motor was reved a bit and then coming back down to idle. It is subtle but I can just hear it...

It has been about 6 months since I last adjusted the valves, anyone have any ideas? (BTW fresh oil change about 2 weeks ago, idle oil pressure is about 25psi and at speed 40 or so, just where it has been in the year I have owned this (my third SWB IIA)

Thanks for your help.
Griswald

[griswald]

Anyone?

[scott]

adj the valves again, it's not that painful and doesn't take that long to do. and if you want, listen using a big screw driver. while idleling place handle end of screw driver in your favorite ear, place the pointy end on various places around the head, be careful up around the fan belt area. you might locate that ticking and you can compare that location to any of the lifters that might have needed adjustment

[Bertha]

Ok,

In an earlier thread, I mentioned a distinct ticking sometimes on start up (somedays it is there, others not) The ticking is motor speed related and then goes away after 2 to 5 secs.

Now I am getting a ticking from time to time coming to a stop or if the motor was reved a bit and then coming back down to idle. It is subtle but I can just hear it...

It has been about 6 months since I last adjusted the valves, anyone have any ideas? (BTW fresh oil change about 2 weeks ago, idle oil pressure is about 25psi and at speed 40 or so, just where it has been in the year I have owned this (my third SWB IIA)

Thanks for your help.
Griswald

40psi at speed? Sounds like that motor is a bit tired. The book calls for 45(which is still low) to 65psi. Rebuilt engines are between 60-75psi at speed. I dont think the low oil pressure is your issue is, but it is an indication of a high mileage motor, which would lead me to believe that there may be other worn internal components, hence the ticking. It is hard to diagnose over the net without hearing it in person, but sounds like it may be a wrist pin noise, if you dont hear it when revved up and you only hear it faintly at idle.

[griswald]

Ticking

Thanks for the info. I adjusted the valves (again) this weekend, and only 3 were a bit out of adjustment (loose)

Now the ticking comes and goes, it goes away with the motor reving at speed, then sometimes comes back at idle and sometimes not...it is distincly at the top of the engine and engine speed related.

Could it be a sticking valve? The ticking is loud...

The specifics for background...New Turner head (was installed by previous owner) with I am sure under 10k on it, fresh oil change about 9 hours (I have an hour meter, or 500 miles ago) (Have spin on filter adpator and using Napa Gold filter)


Vacuum gauge does not bounce or shake and holds (except when cold) steady 21hg...occasionally it will drop to 16-17 after a longer run, then come back to 21hg.

Me thinks it might be time for a rebuild!

Thanks for any advice. At this point I do not feel confident driving it much longer!

Griswald

[thixon]

Gris,

What about a problem with the rocker shaft? Did it seem to be in good order? The off and on ticking has me intrigued.

I agree with Bertha, you've got a tired motor.

That being said, you'd be surprised how many miles you can get out of one. I once drove one a pretty long distance with #3 plug out, and coolant flying everywhere before I put the plug back in (severly blown head gasket). No, I don't recommend this. My little stunt cost me a rebuild on the block and head. Both cracked between 3 and 4 (the block all the way down). I still keep obliterated gasket hanging in the garage as a reminder to shut things down when I know I've got a blown head gasket.

[griswald]

ticking

It could be the rocker shaft, but I do not get the coming and going on the ticking...there was a fair (good) bit of oil on the rocker shaft assembly yesterday when I checked (adjusted) the valves.

Seems to me this ticking comes only when motor has been returning to idle after a rev or a run, and then if I give it some gas, the ticking goes away around 1200 RPMS...

I suppose that checking a rocker shaft entails disassembly...

[gudjeon]

Oil pressure can vary with viscosity. Once warmed up a 10w30/40 can thin out resulting in low idle oil pressure. Add on oil gauges usually have dubious accuracy and for a hard figure, it is best to test with a known testing gauge that a mechanic would use.

Checking the condition of the tappet shaft and the related rocker bushings would be a good next course of action. The shaft usually wears on the bottom side and is not obvious/detectable when assembled. The rocker bushings wear as well. They can be replaced and reamed to fit. Each rocker has its own unique shape so keep these in order. This is the first thing to wear out on these engines as it's fed all the way at the top from that little pipe on the back- make sure its clear.

I would do this step because it may need doing anyway from the sounds of things, regardless of whether the rest needs a rebuild. It could explain the ticking and the fluctuating vacuum.

good luck

[griswald]

ticking

Thanks for the advice...Anything for wear I am looking for besides worn metal

[gudjeon]

Once the rocker shaft is out, it will be evident. Will show up as scoring on the underside and sloppy fit when corresponding rocker is dry fitted.

Shaft and bushings are made to be replaceable

[Eric W S]

Thanks for the advice...Anything for wear I am looking for besides worn metal

Get a vacuum gauge, and google how to read it/use. It will tell you right away what's wrong with the motor.

No need to waste time guessing.

[griswald]

ticking

Thanks Eric,
There is actually a vacuum gauge hooked up to my motor (always) it reads 21in/hg 99% of the time; once in a while or when it is cold it will stumble to about 17 then go back to 21.

The update I have tonight is that I took off the valve cover and watched and listened, and here is the update...

Valve number one is the one that is ticking (this is an exhaust valve)

The oil is running well down the rocker shaft at idle I think...and also between every rocker arm, there is a steady stream running out of the rocker shaft (like syrup running out of the bottle) of oil.
It is coming out of the holes on top of every rocker not spurting but constant low flowing oil...and the oil is coating the head pretty well at idle, when engine speed increases the oil does flow more.

is that ok or should there be more?

So now my question is why is that valve ticking? (Remember my compression tests have consistantly measured 128, 130,128, 130)

Sticking valve or not enough oil or bad adjustment (by me?)

Best,
Matthew

[griswald]

ticking

One last detail...I did use 10w-30 on this last oil change...usually I use 20w-50...

[gudjeon]

I use a 10w30 for when the temp stays at -10c or lower. For all other temps and summer, I use cheap and plentiful 15w40. The oil does sort of just flows around the tappet components. It doesn't shoot up or squirt anywhere. I was told by an old hand at rovers was you were lucky to have any pressure reading at idle. Sounds like the oil delivery is not an issue.

Did this valve stick/tick on the 20w50?

[griswald]

Thanks so much! I will report back after I drain the 10w-30 and put in the 20w-50! Believe it or not this is my 3rd series Land Rover and I have owned them for about 12 years...I have installed motors, gearboxes, and diffs, but sometimes these little issues just get into my head and I jump to bad conclusions...I call it Roveritis.

Best,
Griswald
1971 Series IIa 88