Series II trans to Series III swap

[1967IPA]

Hi all!
I was wondering - if I plan on going full syncro series III transmission from the series II that is currently installed, what mods am I going to need to plan on?
Thanks!

[Nium]

I haven't done it but from what I can ascertain it is a straight swap. Take out the old gearbox mate the new (Series III) to the transfer box and bolt it all back up to the engine. Probably should replace all clutch components (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, bush for primary pinion in flywheel, and rear main seal on engine) while you are in there, for the swap you shouldn't have to replace clutch components but may as well while you are in there.

As reference check out

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.Engines.html

Cheers!

[Les Parker]

The swap for a IIa (B suffix onwards) and Series III you'll need to swap the bell housings over, as the clutch realease is very different twixt the 2.
Make sure you stand the geearbox on its end, ie transfer box, so you are not fighting gravity with the main and layshafts.
You probably will need a new gasket # RNB393.

[Bertha]

You will also need to re route the clutch line as the s3 slave cyl is located on the left side of the truck, unlike the s2 slave which is located on the right side.

[1967IPA]

no notching of frame and/or trans tunnel to accomodate the switching sides of the slave cyl?

[Bertha]

no notching of frame and/or trans tunnel to accomodate the switching sides of the slave cyl?

The new galv frames are made to s3 spec and should not require any modification, hoever if you are running with an original early frame there will be a small traingular brace welded to the crossmember in that area that will need to be ground down a little bit. Either way, it is not that hard of a job.

[ducttape]

Chimming in, just to follow this link

[mongoswede]

The new galv frames are made to s3 spec and should not require any modification, hoever if you are running with an original early frame there will be a small traingular brace welded to the crossmember in that area that will need to be ground down a little bit. Either way, it is not that hard of a job.