clutch not engaging?

[onecross]

So we just tried to drive my 1960 series II 109 sw (for the first time) it and for some reason the clutch seams to be stuck. The clutch system has been bled and seams to operate correctly... Any advise on how to remedy not this would be great. I have attached some videos and pictures.
Thanks

-Mat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFqXxR1aXAQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbfCK58Y3po

[Nium]

What exactly do you mean by the clutch isn't engaging? You aren't able to shift gears when you depress the clutch pedal? You can shift gears when you depress the clutch pedal but the Landy doesn't move when you let up the clutch pedal? When you push down on the clutch pedal the clutch disk doesn't disengage so that power is still transferred through to the transmission?

I watched your U-tube videos and it was a nice attempt but I couldn't really tell what they were suppose to be showing.

[onecross]

Nium,

thanks for the response sorry for not being clear i wasnt sure what to say.... when it is running i can not get it to go into any gear. the Land rover lurched forward when it was in third and then i started the motor but then shut off proptly. Does this help you help me?
ya... that was my atempt of showing what the clutch was doing through the acess panel of the bell house...

[Nium]

I'm guessing you replaced the pressure plate and clutch disk as the pressure plate in the photo looks new. If yes, have you followed the procedures to adjust the pedal position, Clutch Master Cylinder free play, and Pedal free play. It looks also like you still have the Early model of the clutch slave cylinder and not the Hydrostatic slave cylinder so you would need to verify that it is Early model and follow the procedure for the Early model (Early model has a return spring attached to the straight slave cylinder operating lever). If it is the later Hydrostatic slave cylinder follow that procedure to adjust.

It looks like the clutch withdrawal sleeve (as seen in pictures) isn't moving far enough forward to push in the fingers of the pressure plate to allow the pressure plate to stop squeezing the clutch disk to the flywheel.

Cheers

[Nium]

Here's a link with pictures with what I mean by the clutch withdrawal sleeve isn't moving far enough forward onto the pressure plate fingers...

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clutch_Operation_Explained.shtml

[onecross]

I have adjusted the hydrolics as much as i can and i think the pressure plate may be stuck. would that be a possibility?

[Nium]

I have adjusted the hydrolics as much as i can and i think the pressure plate may be stuck. would that be a possibility?

Yes, but probably not the problem.

Can you see the withdrawal sleeve push in the fingers of the pressure plate toward the flywheel?

Please, post a picture of the slave cylinder.

[I Leak Oil]

It's not uncommon for the friction disc to get stuck to the flywheel because the truck sits for a period of time.

[Nium]

The cross-shaft may not have been mated to the withdrawal fork correctly. There should have been maintained a 7/16" gap between the withdrawal sleeve and the withdrawal unit housing when the cross shaft was reinserted to the withdrawal fork. If the gap was not maintained for the withdrawal sleeve then the cross-shaft would have been inserted off center to the withdrawal fork which would keep the withdrawal sleeve from being able to move far enough forward to properly engage the splines on the pressure plate thus disengaging the clutch disk regardless of how much the slave cylinder was adjusted out.

You probably are going to need to take the tranny back off the engine remove the withdrawal unit and remove the cross-shaft from the withdrawal fork put a 7/16" rod or something else that will maintain a 7/16" gap between the withdrawal sleeve and the withdrawal unit housing then reinsert the cross shaft to the withdrawal fork. Then reassemble everything and it should work fine.

The clutch disk can become rusted to the face of the flywheel, but I'm guessing you just replaced the pressure plate and clutch disk so there shouldn't have been sufficent time, a year or more of the Landy sitting, for the clutch disk to rust to the flywheel face.

[Nium]

If you have the "Repair Operation Manual" Part# AKM8159 (Green Bible) reference Operation C-15, page 61-C, Step 5 and 6.

[Sputnicker]

When you say you "started it for the first time" do you mean since reassembly, or after it has been sitting a long time? If it's been sitting a long time, I second the notion that it may be the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel.

[Bertha]

I have to agree with the clutch is stuck theory others have suggested, if in fact the truck has been sitting for awhile. If this is the case, you may be able to free it without pulling the trans.
Here is how:
Find a flat to slight decline, straight area and put your truck in 2nd or 3rd gear and try to start it. It will lurch forward a bit but eventually get going. Once you are cruising, start pressing on the clutch pedal several times. This should free it up.

[onecross]

Yes, but probably not the problem.

Can you see the withdrawal sleeve push in the fingers of the pressure plate toward the flywheel?

Please, post a picture of the slave cylinder.

The withdrawal sleeve almost pushes the fingers but dont seam to make it to actually pushing. I will post a picture of the slave cylinder when i get to the shop in about an hour. Thanks for the help diagnosing the problem.

[Nium]

Have you recently replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing?

[onecross]

When you say you "started it for the first time" do you mean since reassembly, or after it has been sitting a long time? If it's been sitting a long time, I second the notion that it may be the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel.

I just checked the time date stamp on a picture to see when we put the motor and trans together and it appears that we did that 10/31/08. so im guessing that could cause the problem... what do yall think?

here is a picture of the trans and motor on the frame 10/31/09: