Painting the bottom of the Rover with used motor oil....

[greenmeanie]

Rust - what's that?

[greasyhandsagain]

I think where I really want to get the oil is under the tub, and on the chassis. Really dry back there, I guess Im in the minority since my motor isnt a "leaker". Sort of going with the idea or using new oil, with a little kero. The sprayer sounds like a good idea also.

Wife says......NOT out front or in MY driveway!!!

[LaneRover]

Rust - what's that?

Its what you get after driving across some salt flats that weren't as dry as you thought.

[kevkon]

If you have serious rust present coating it with oil is not the answer. Go with the Por 15 treatment. If you don't have a serious rust issue then use a product designed to afford the proper long term protection. I think Waxoyl is a great protection, I just don't happen to like it. There are a multitude of other inhibitors and protectors available that can be applied without any special equipment. Why screw around with motor oil? It's messy and not designed for that purpose. What's the cost of replacing the frame and parts compared to spending less than $100 on the proper treatment?

[Mercedesrover]

Go with the Por 15 treatment.

Why screw around with motor oil?

Sem Rust-Shield is far and away superior to POR-15.

'Cause oil works.

[kevkon]

Sem Rust-Shield is far and away superior to POR-15.

'Cause oil works.

I'm curious, what problems have you experienced with Por15?
Sure oil works, so do a lot of other coatings. But it's far from an ideal solution, so why use it when there's better options?

[Jim-ME]

Gemplers has a rust converter which I have used with what I feel were good results on a friend's Jeep. We used both the Wayoyl guns to apply it both inside and outside the frame after power washing on pounding off the flaking rust with hammers. We actually used a shop vac to suck the loose rust out of the inside of the frame. After letting the converter work for the recommended time which IIRC was 48 hrs we used clear Waxoyl on the inside of the frame and the hard wax on the outside. It still looked good a couple of years later when the Jeep was sold. This is the route I plan to go with my Rover because even the galvanization on my frame is getting eaten off by the crap they spread on the roads up here in the winter. It is far easier for me to apply more rust converter followed by the appropriate Waxoyl than to repaint or regalvanize. On my foot boxes, seat box, floor boards transmission tunnel and th center section of the bulkhead I plan to remove the rust on the steel bits by sand or media blasting, prime it and Line-x it.
Jim

[ScottT]

They don't leak, they automatically change their oil. Making maintenance easier for the owner.

What? Your trucks leak oil?

[gudjeon]

Oil and diesel must work well because I have never seen a logging contractors pick up truck bed rust out.

[kevkon]

Maybe the Waxoyl should go in the motor and the motor oil on the chassis.
What about the gear lube?

[adkrover]

What about blacktop sealant? Just trip the truck on it's side and get a big paint brush.

[greasyhandsagain]

My wife, when I met her...drove a rather clapped out 1960 studebaker lark, with a flathead 6. It was a dual purpose machine. An oil processor, it also always had clean fresh oil since its other function was to fog for mosquitoes. She carried (no lie) a five gallon jug of recycled oil in the trunk, and would just pour some out into a coffee can each day, and dump it into the motor.

soon after I met her, I managed to source a nice running engine out of a rust out which we put in in one afternoon.

[adkrover]

When I was younger and living another life, I drove a bus that had a hose and funnel inside the cab so you didn't have to pull over to pour the oil in. We purchased cases of heavy weight fleet oil from truck stops and watched the odometer. Every 50 miles or so, in went another quart.