Anyone useing a Hi-Ratio Transfer Box?

[Regan]

I am still looking for getting more speed and/or power, less noise and less heat out of newly acquired Series IIA. Per a couple earlier threads, someone suggested I look at a High Ratio Transfer Box vs. an overdrive, which I do not have now. I am told this re-assembled transfer bax will get the 88 up to 70 MPH, 55 in town or 3rd gear. Yes, it is costly, but then it may be worth it. Have any of you have this "new" transfer box and if so, happy with it, etc. etc. Can it do the 70 MPH with a 2.25L petro running near perfect?

I will consider one, if it can do the above - faster, quieter, plus.
Look forward to your responses and comments on this accessory. Thanks!

Jeff riding the Possie

[TeriAnn]

I am told this re-assembled transfer bax will get the 88 up to 70 MPH, 55 in town or 3rd gear. Yes, it is costly, but then it may be worth it. Have any of you have this "new" transfer box and if so, happy with it, etc. etc. Can it do the 70 MPH with a 2.25L petro running near perfect?

70 MPH with a 2.25 engine? No problem if you are going downhill or have a very long level stretch with no headwind or uphill sections.

I have an Ashcroft high ratio converted transfercase behind a 302 V8. Works great, holds up great, quiet, and with 33.3" dia tyres I'm at 2650 RPM @ 65 MPH. Will a 2.25L engine, optimistically rated at 70 hp (fresh with 8:1 compression), push that tall of a gear? marginally. You might find yourself cruising in 3rd gear a lot if there are any hills where you live.

The high ratio conversion is great behind an uprated engine and I highly recommend it to keep the revs down after engine swaps.

If you run the numbers you will find that in high range the gear ratios of a high range transfer case are close ballpark to a stock series drive train with 3.54:1 R&P gears. You can use a pair for diffs from a Disco I or RR Classic being scrapped out as a try before you buy if you like.

A real advantage to an overdrive is that it allows you to split third & fourth in the hills. That's mostly what I used mine for back when I had one. Four over is not as tall as a high ratio transfercase so is more useful with the 2.25L engine.

A high ratio kit is a great addition to a V8 or six cylinder conversion but I think it kinds sucks behind a stock 2.25L engine.

If your low range ratios are not critical and you don't live in mountain country, you could try a 4.1:1 R&P conversion.

[SafeAirOne]

Fast?? Quiet?? Powerfull??

Man, I've got some bad news for you Jeff...You just bought the wrong car.

[LC_rover]

I have the hi ratio in my Series III. It gives you a little top end, but I think those speeds would really be pushing the RPMs up on the 2.25 with standard gearing. I live in flat country, and I don't drive my LR on the interstate usually. 50 - 55mph is my max for comfortable cruising usually. Even if the gearing ratios were there, I think my LR would be crazy noisy at those speeds, and the mpg would go right in the toilet.

I think if you really want to get it comfortable at those speeds, you need to look at the diff gearing as was already mentioned. That will be a trade off for the super low off road capability though.

[TeriAnn]

I have the hi ratio in my Series III. It gives you a little top end, but I think those speeds would really be pushing the RPMs up on the 2.25 with standard gearing.

I guess I don't understand what you are saying. I'm not sure what you mean by "a little top end" But I do like to look at actual numbers for a comparison, so out comes the calculator.

(speed numbers are calculated with 32" dia tyres, the stock dia for a 109)

Stock Series overall gear ratio for fourth gear calculated at the axle = 5.4:1
With 32" dia tyres the engine is turning 3686 RPM @ 65 MPH
With 32" dia tyres the engine is turning 3119 RPM @ 55 MPH
With 32" dia tyres the engine is turning 2835 RPM @ 50 MPH

Series with high ratio kit in fourth gear calculated at the axle = 4.09:1
with 32" dia tyres the engine is turning 2737 RPM @ 65 MPH

Series with 3.54:1 R&P in fourth gear is turning 2788 RPM @ 65 MPH

Series with Roverdrive in fourth gear overdrive is turning 2951 RPM @ 65 MPH

[LC_rover]

I guess I don't understand what you are saying.

I was giving my annecdotal experience with the hi-ratio vs stock. I have none with the Roverdrive.
Also, it sounds like he wants a routine 70mph in a smooth, quiet and efficient manner in his Series IIa. That might not be possible (heh), but I'm thinking his best bet is a 3.54 diff mod in addition to his choice of OD/Hi-Ratio? :shrugs:

[daveb]

the hi ratio box is really too high for the 2.25. better to fit an overdrive.

I am still looking for getting more speed and/or power, less noise and less heat out of newly acquired Series IIA. Per a couple earlier threads, someone suggested I look at a High Ratio Transfer Box vs. an overdrive, which I do not have now. I am told this re-assembled transfer bax will get the 88 up to 70 MPH, 55 in town or 3rd gear. Yes, it is costly, but then it may be worth it. Have any of you have this "new" transfer box and if so, happy with it, etc. etc. Can it do the 70 MPH with a 2.25L petro running near perfect?

I will consider one, if it can do the above - faster, quieter, plus.
Look forward to your responses and comments on this accessory. Thanks!

Jeff riding the Possie

[Cutter]

It works nicely in my 2.6l, I can cruise comfortably at 60-65, much more and it is really pushing it.

[TeriAnn]

Also, it sounds like he wants a routine 70mph in a smooth, quiet and efficient manner in his Series IIa. That might not be possible (heh), but I'm thinking his best bet is a 3.54 diff mod in addition to his choice of OD/Hi-Ratio?

Since I like data:

High ratio transfercase (0.87:1) + 3.54:1 R&P + 32" tyres = 2264 RPM @ 70 MPH. Much less than 70 MPH & the engine would be in a steep power decline. You would need to downshift into 3rd for 65 MPH.

Even though it would put 70 MPH right about where the 2.25L engine generates max torque you would need a couple solid propellant boosters to get up to that speed and an axillary engine to maintain that speed.

The 2.25 engine just can not push the combination. It can barely be pushed to turn the high ratio box or the 3.54 diffs.

Bottom line, get an overdrive, learn to love 55 MPH & the ability to split 3rd & 4th gears.

[rbonnett]

TeriAnn,

Any data on how big those boosters should be? Say to get from 35 to 65 on the average freeway ramp?

[thixon]

Regan,

Where do you live? I'm asking because one thing you can do to reduce the noise is run with a canvass top. I guess you won't actually reduce the noise, you just won't be riding inside a giant drum anymore without the hardtop. That may not be an option for you if you live up north, unless you're hairy like a yeti.

On my first rover, I went through a lot of work to reduce the noise. I covered everything with dynamat on the outside (bulkhead, seatbox, inside the doors and bed, everywhere). I then covered everysurface inside with aluminum bubble wrap stying linsulation, and covered that with a bunch of trim panels I made. I did the same on the inside of the hardtop, and then made a head liner. It was fun doing it, it looked great, and it worked to some degree. However, it was still loud and hot (in the summer anyway), just not as loud and hot as before I did all that. It was a whole lot of work, for minimal returns.

As for the speed issue, TA is on target. I had an overdrive in that truck, and liked it. I could get up to 70 or so, but I had a newly rebuilt (8:1 head) motor. 70 was only possible on flat interstate, pedal to the floor. The first hill I came to reduced my speed.

IMO, if you plan to leave the truck in its current configuration, you're chasing your tail trying to find a way to make it reach modern highway speeds. Either consider drivetrain mods/swaps, or accept it for what it is.

Either way, it'll be an adventure.

[Regan]

Followup to your message on Hi Ratio

Travis, thanks for the info. I am getting somewhere! I live in cajun heartland - Lafayette, LA. The highest thing we have over here are overpasses - No kidding! Flat and HOT! Except for now. I am running BFG LT235/85 R16 tires and believe they are getting me some additional speed, but cannot tell as speedo says 50 to 55 MPH with RPM averaging around 2900, give or take 100. So, my solution seems to be either an O/D or High Ration box, one or the other. I think either will provide around 60 to 65 MPH, but hopefully at around 2700 RPM, which the 2.25L runs nice. I also have a nice safari hard top with top vents, etc.

Also, I am considering the same you did on noise control. I contacted British Pacific, but the HD floor, seat, firewall covering kit is $699. A bit too much for me. I had heat as well on my initial trip, but am taking care of that filling holes and replacing needed seals inside.
Again, thanks for the info.
Regan

Regan,

Where do you live? I'm asking because one thing you can do to reduce the noise is run with a canvass top. I guess you won't actually reduce the noise, you just won't be riding inside a giant drum anymore without the hardtop. That may not be an option for you if you live up north, unless you're hairy like a yeti.

On my first rover, I went through a lot of work to reduce the noise. I covered everything with dynamat on the outside (bulkhead, seatbox, inside the doors and bed, everywhere). I then covered everysurface inside with aluminum bubble wrap stying linsulation, and covered that with a bunch of trim panels I made. I did the same on the inside of the hardtop, and then made a head liner. It was fun doing it, it looked great, and it worked to some degree. However, it was still loud and hot (in the summer anyway), just not as loud and hot as before I did all that. It was a whole lot of work, for minimal returns.

As for the speed issue, TA is on target. I had an overdrive in that truck, and liked it. I could get up to 70 or so, but I had a newly rebuilt (8:1 head) motor. 70 was only possible on flat interstate, pedal to the floor. The first hill I came to reduced my speed.

IMO, if you plan to leave the truck in its current configuration, you're chasing your tail trying to find a way to make it reach modern highway speeds. Either consider drivetrain mods/swaps, or accept it for what it is.

Either way, it'll be an adventure.

[Tim Smith]

Regan,
I think you are looking for a golden bullet to get you up to speed with modern traffic. As has been stated, there really isn't one without upgrading a whole bunch of stuff.

I think you would be better served by going through all the different components and making sure things are in tune to the best of your ability. With fresh and good oil, the transfer case and gear box will quiet down. With the motor in top tune, you'll find it running a bit more powerful and possibly a little faster. The more you do, the better it will get and the more you will understand how much these trucks love good maintenance.

With the roverdrive I can maintain 60-65 indicated with no problems unless there happens to be a hill or a strong head wind. That's on 33" tires and the GPS has proven that 65 indicated is more like 70 actual. I have cruised at speeds up to 75 indicated with this motor but I gotta tell you, that's kind of pushing it and it affects the mileage. This truck will push even faster but you got to remember that you're still on drum brakes and unless you've already been through all of the steering components, suspension and even the drive line joints, you're probably flirting with disaster.

Start saving your cash for an engine upgrade and while you are doing that, start getting familiar with everything else on the truck which probably wants your attention any way.

[Regan]

Understood!

Tim, thanks. I'm toning down my request and understandably looking at a moderate solution for 2700 RPM and 60 to 65 MPH. P.S. Everything I buy now cost me double! How, new kitchen counter top, bathroom upgrades, paint. My wonderful wife encourages me to spend 'cause she matching me $ for $. Yep, it gunna be a nice 88!
Regan

Regan,
I think you are looking for a golden bullet to get you up to speed with modern traffic. As has been stated, there really isn't one without upgrading a whole bunch of stuff.

I think you would be better served by going through all the different components and making sure things are in tune to the best of your ability. With fresh and good oil, the transfer case and gear box will quiet down. With the motor in top tune, you'll find it running a bit more powerful and possibly a little faster. The more you do, the better it will get and the more you will understand how much these trucks love good maintenance.

With the roverdrive I can maintain 60-65 indicated with no problems unless there happens to be a hill or a strong head wind. That's on 33" tires and the GPS has proven that 65 indicated is more like 70 actual. I have cruised at speeds up to 75 indicated with this motor but I gotta tell you, that's kind of pushing it and it affects the mileage. This truck will push even faster but you got to remember that you're still on drum brakes and unless you've already been through all of the steering components, suspension and even the drive line joints, you're probably flirting with disaster.

Start saving your cash for an engine upgrade and while you are doing that, start getting familiar with everything else on the truck which probably wants your attention any way.

[greasyhandsagain]

Noise Control????

The blue foam earplugs from Rite Aid give a 33 decibel noise reduction. For 5$ you get like a dozen of them....and they WORK WONDERS!

65-75 in a Series is dangerous. Just stay off those roads, or get an Amish red triangle and stick in on the back when you need to go on the interstate.

If you wanna go fast in a Land Rover.....get a Range Rover or a Disco.