Footwell - quick replacements

[oestlarsen]

Hi guys,
Our generous host sells what they label as quick replacement (bulkhead stays in) footwell replacements. I saw the lengthy bulkhead repair/restore write ups by Ike and others, but wonder if there is anything specific to pay attention to here - since I am not replacing kickboard or upper piece. Where do I cut the existing piece back to when bulkead stays in?

Separately - outrigger is coming off - and being replaced - but other than that - I am looking for relatively low level of fixing here (get truck back on road situation).
Thanks!!
Carl

[thixon]

I think you're asking where to cut across the top of the old panel for removal. Is that right? If so, I'd wait till you got the new panel in and decide how you're gonna fit it up, and how you're gonna weld it in (butt weld, plug weld, etc.).

Everywhere else you can just plug weld. Only hitch I see is you're missing metal on the doghouse because the flange is badly rusted. Are you planning to weld in a new flange there?

[greenmeanie]

The picture is not very clear but it looks like your rot is all in the flat piece at the bottom of the footwell where the floor board sits. If that is the case the repair should be simple. Essentially, as long as you do not have holes intersecting the stamped stiffening ribs in the toe board you can just cut away the rotted section, make up repair patches and weld them in place locally.

The RN toe board replacement panels are designed to allow the complete section to be replaced as one with the cut in the small vertical section at the front of the foot well. You need access to get in and drill the spot welds, make a long horizontal cut across the footwell, trim the repair panel to fit, clamp in place and weld. That involves removing the front wing, steering box, splash guard and steering box at a minimum.

Oh and the repair panel is galvanized so weld at your own risk.

[oestlarsen]

Took what I hope is a better picture showing the WHOLE picture. So - sounds like I may have to flange the doghouse per comment. I'll try to clean it up so I can better see what's rusted and what's left.

Would the replacement part still be the path to take, or simply patch w/ sheet metal?

Thanks again - apologies for the questions, I am trying to avoid opening too many cans of worms for this winter :-)

Carl

[greenmeanie]

I'd get the patch panel. If you're patching the bulkhead and reaplcing the outrigger I'd just go the whole way and remove the bulkhead. You'll find it a lot easier to do both jobs when you have proper access to the joints you are trying to make.

[SafeAirOne]

I'd get the patch panel. If you're patching the bulkhead and reaplcing the outrigger I'd just go the whole way and remove the bulkhead. You'll find it a lot easier to do both jobs when you have proper access to the joints you are trying to make.

Unfortunately (or, depending on your outlook, fortunately), the more you take it apart, the more you tend to find stuff that needs restoration/reconstruction. AKA: that can of worms you were refering to.

[thixon]

Carl,

I did'nt want to put it in the first post, but since greenmeanie went that route, I will. If it were me, I'd pull the bulkhead. It will just be easier, for both the outrigger and the bulkhead. Everything will be out of the way, and you can fit up the new repair panel easily. It'll take less time, and probably yield a better repair. What about the door post? Is it good?

[brucejohn]

It looks like it has been patched before behind the clutch pedal? I don't see the stamped stiffening rib there.

Having just patched mine together I would agree with the others (not that my opinion compares with thixon or greenmeanies). I chased my welds all over the original footwells because they looked good but were very thin. In the end I would have been better replacing the entire footwells and side panels. All available from our great hosts. In the meantime that would have opened up my door posts to properly clean up any rust and repaint them as well. Hindsight is 20/20.

If you are stuck on patching, Jac04 gave me a great suggestion to epoxy and rivet my patches in. This likely would have been a lot easier in my case.

Good luck.

[oestlarsen]

Thanks guys - and sorry for the delayed update.

Seat box off - lots of lovely nuts and bolts...
Tub off - no bolt had to be cut off...not bad
Frame seems surprisingly good - other than the known issue of my bulkhead outriggers, and everything being incredibly dusty, surface rusty, dirty and flaky.

Thanks for all the advice - I will probably buy the leave in bulkead replacement footwells, since I have quite a bit of frame cleaning, and other tub-out work before I need to get her on road in April. I also need to paint my rear axel.

I read a few posts about POR15 and will continue to do so - but so far will hit the frame with the wire brush and drill attachments as I learn about options.

PS - apologies for the structure with a hat in the picture - good help is hard to find nowadays :-)

Carl

[kevkon]

I use POR-15 and find it to be an extremely effective coating for rusted metal. It's basically a moisture curing urethane. Like all specialty coatings it has it's drawbacks and you must follow the instructions for surface prep. The problem you will have with any paint coating is the interior of the frame sections. In many ways some of those areas are more critical than the more obvious exterior frame sections. You might consider a corrosion product like waxoyl which can be applied with a long spray wand for those areas and paint for the exterior sections.