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Does the center of your wheel look sort of like this?
This is one style of drive flange.
This is one style of drive flange.
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1964 Series 2A SW, LHD mostly stock, often runs!
1991 Range Rover Hunter -
Patty,
There are a lot of really good people on this board who will help you out as you have seen so far. If you let us know where you are located perhaps someone could meet up up with you and give you a rundown of how your Series is set up and how to properly use it's features?
For the time being, leave the ARB compressor and Air Locker switches alone. Locked differentials will create VERY adverse handling on a snow covered road and should only be used off road or if you get stuck and them immediately disengaged once you are free.
KBThe Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversionComment
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Where do you live maybe someone here lives in your area and can give you a class?
Steve71 IIa 88
01 D2Comment
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I live in a somewhat remote area in Alaska. No one here has a Rover or has experience with a Rover. My husband added many new options to our Series II A and the modification to the 4WD is confusing me. I have been driving the Rover one week and then driving the pick-up the next - I really don't want the Rover to sit all winter in the garage. I drive to work in the dark and return home in the dark, but Wed is my day off, so I will get some photos in the daylight. Here is the photo of my wheel. I don't think I lock this. I think it is a security lock. So how do I lock my wheels to put her in 4WD? http://i47.tinypic.com/2rogvts.jpgComment
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These are the ARB air lock and compressor switches I am not touching. http://i50.tinypic.com/2m0o0k.jpgComment
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Patty,
The lock on your wheel is just for security. No need to worry about that unless you need to change out the tire. Do yourself a favor anyway and find the matching lock and then make sure it is in the truck somewhere safe.
The switches you've showen are classic ARB locker switches. No need to touch them unless you are very stuck. In which case, you will turn the compressor on first (switch on the left) and then select the locker (switch on the right). Once you are done, you can turn them off any way you like.
All that is going on there, is that you are turning a compressor on to generate air pressure, and then you are using that preasure to activate the locker. I'm assuming the locker is on the rear but not knowing how your truck is set up, it could be on the front differential.
Those lockers are designed to lock the right wheel and the left wheel on either axle it is set up on, at the same speed through any terrain. They should be only used when you are in trouble or when you know you are getting into trouble. As Kevin-NY noted above, driving with them engaged for no reason can cause all kinds of trouble so please don't do it.
Now as for AK. I know there is a member from Alaska but I forgot his name. I'm sure he lives just down the road from you and can show you everything you need to know about 4x4 in a rover. If only we could find him but he's probably off sprucing up another truck for sale.Comment
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Your husband, or someone, made some pretty big changes to your Series Rover. From the picture you linked to you have LR alloy wheels. The picture I posted is of a steel wheel, these are what all Series 2 Rovers came with originally. To change to the alloy wheels your husband probably changed out the entire axle assemblies to more modern axles. Did he ever mention using parts from a Discovery or a Defender? On an unrelated note he may even have changed from leaf springs to coils when doing this.
As already mentioned this leads me to believe that to engage 4 wheel drive all you need to do is push down on the shift lever with the yellow knob. This engages the 4 wheel drive function in the transfer case. I believe that you do not need to "lock" the hubs as they have drive flanges, not visible under the alloy wheels you have. The wheels are always engaged to the axle shaft in your axle assemblies, they have no free wheeling hub to lock or unlock.
So by pushing down on the yellow knob you have conventional 4 wheel drive. An easy way to verify this is get someone to watch your wheels from outside the truck, engage the transfer case, and while on a loose surface like dirt or snow, try to spin your tires. If the observer sees the wheels spinning under power you have 4 wheel drive. You can also tell by feel, when in 4 wheel drive the truck should feel more difficult to steer into a turn. The wheels under power want to go/drive straight and make turning feel more difficult.
The ARB switches are labeled for you rear axle. The ARB is in the differenttial on the axle, the center section, 3rd member, the pumpkin, it's called several different names. It uses air pressure to turn on and off. By turning on the ARB compressor you provide the needed pressure to actuate the locking differetial function of the ARB. Flipping the 2nd switch does this. It should be instant on. When this is engaged the rear axle's tires spins at the same speed whether going straight or when going thru a turn. This is good for ensuring better traction on dirt, mud, rock. Operation in snow and ice may be better with the ARB sometimes and may be worse sometimes. Sometimes in very icy conditions having tires spinning at the same speed can make driving more difficult due to sideways slipping. I don't have an ARB system myself, I haven't ever driven one in snow and ice or anywhere. This is the opinion others have shared. A lot depends on conditions, and driver preference. Maybe someone with experience with ARBs can share direct experience.
One strategy for using your ARB is to 1st use regular 4 wheel drive, if that provides enough traction to get thru whatever conditions you're encountering then great. If not then engage the ARB system for the additional traction it may provide and if that gets you thru whatever conditions you're having trouble with then, once again, great. For use of the ARB in icy conditions someone who has actual experience with ARBs in a short wheel base vehicle in those conditions needs to chime in.
It seems like you have a pretty modified Series, most of us here get really curious about what others do/did to their trucks, so as always pictures are encouraged. Drive safe.
Jeff1964 Series 2A SW, LHD mostly stock, often runs!
1991 Range Rover HunterComment
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Patti, do you know what modifications your husband did to the Rover? I see disc brakes and I'm wondering if your truck has some other extensive drivetrain/ transmission modifications besides the air locker.94 D-90 tdi
72 Series IIIComment
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I used to have the ARB locking axles and found them to be trouble unless I was in trouble.
Basically, unless you are going perfectly straight ahead, you need all wheels to spin a little different speed than the others. The ARB setup is fantastic at getting you out of a situation but equally as fantastic at getting you into one unnecessarily, unless you know what you are doing. I only locked my ARB axles a handful of times and that was when I was seriously in trouble. Problem for me was that they were not installed correctly and one day the ring gear came spinning loose. If not for that, I'd probably still have them.
I think Patty is still confused by 4X4 and ARB and blah blah blah different rover setups. Basically when you push the yellow knob down, you have engaged the front axle and thus four wheel drive (unless there is a locking hub which Patty's picture doesn't support). On series rovers there is no center differential so the front drive shaft will spin the same as the rear. No matter what they will spin the same speed.
Where lockers come in, you are only talking about the front axle or the rear. Lockers are usually first installed in the rear because of that whole 'spinning tires when I shouldn't but I like to steer and it's ruining my party' kind of thing. Of course, Patty's husband could have put a detroit (or other) in the rear and then put the ARB in the front but we have no idea. Even though it says rear locker on the switch doesn't preclude the fact that it could be on the front.Comment
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My husband did some major modifications. We bought the Rover in '73 and greatly enhanced her several years ago. I know he put an Old Man Emu suspension system in - but that shouldn't impact the 4 W drive system? I will take pictures tomorrow in the daylight and hopefully one of you experts can tell me if I can just depress the yellow knob and take off in 4WD without bothering to lock the wheels. I really don't want to ruin our Rover - she's a beauty.Comment
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Ok, Patty.
If you still have a yellow knob to depress and a red one to move forward and backward you should be good to go. You don't have manual locking hubs so don't worry about it.94 D-90 tdi
72 Series IIIComment
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I suspect all the other stuff is well beyond what PattyG needs (or wants) to know. To keep it simple:
Push the yellow spring-loaded knob down for 4 wheel drive. Doing so while coasting at moderate speeds is OK.
When you're done with 4 wheel drive, come to a complete stop and yank the red lever all the way back. The yellow spring-loaded knob will pop back up. Shove the red lever forward to its original position and you're in 2 wheel drive again.
I recommend you don't mess with anything else (for now).--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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