Rear tub deck/floor

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  • fishguy
    Low Range
    • Jun 2009
    • 40

    Rear tub deck/floor

    Hi All,

    First time back in a LONG time...my series has been parked for 2 years. Anyway, is anyone willing to share their experiences in replacing the tub floor? I'm in the process of drilling out the old spot welds to remove the old deck.
    Brian
    1974 Series III Coiler Project
    pics @: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2029646&id=1407702837&l=02d75d048d
  • jac04
    Overdrive
    • Feb 2007
    • 1884

    #2
    Travis was nice enough to share his experience:

    Comment

    • KevinNY
      4th Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 484

      #3
      I just cleaned it up and used automotive panel bonding adhesive to put a new panel right over the old one. The stuff is as strong as welding.
      The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

      Comment

      • fishguy
        Low Range
        • Jun 2009
        • 40

        #4
        Is that the 3M stuff mentioned in the links? Looks like good stuff but the gun is a bit pricey.
        Brian
        1974 Series III Coiler Project
        pics @: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2029646&id=1407702837&l=02d75d048d

        Comment

        • thixon
          5th Gear
          • Jul 2007
          • 909

          #5
          You don't need the gun. Ill post more tomorrow. All I have is my blackberry right now.
          Travis
          '66 IIa 88

          Comment

          • thixon
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2007
            • 909

            #6
            Brian,

            What Kevin did will actually work really well. I hav'nt seen his results, buy I'm sure its rock solid. The 3m panel adhesive is impressivly strong.

            I used it to laminate two thinner sheets of aluminum together to make one thick sheet for my bed floor. Its rock solid, and like one peice. I wouldn't hesitate a bit to conisder Kevins option. In fact, If my stiffeners hadn't been rusted as all heck, I'd of just done what he did.

            The adhesive comes as a two part mix, in one of those double tube type contianers like epoxy from home depot. It just doesnt have the plungers to push (thats what the gun does.) The pack comes with a few mixing tips that swirl the two parts together at they pass through it. All you have to do is just puch the stuff out at the same rate on each side. Its easy, you'll see when you get it. If you have questions, send me a message.

            One more thing. If you have an air hammer and a chisel, you can have your bed floor out in about 60 seconds using the chisel to split the spot welds. It does bend up the flange on the bed a bit, you can hammer them back flat with ease.

            Good luck
            Travis
            '66 IIa 88

            Comment

            • Mercedesrover
              3rd Gear
              • Oct 2006
              • 343

              #7
              Here's some pictures of mine. Start at this page and it continues for a few more.
              www.seriestrek.com

              Comment

              • fishguy
                Low Range
                • Jun 2009
                • 40

                #8
                Deck is in

                Hi all,

                Went the 3m & rivet route the new rear deck is in...

                Brian
                1974 Series III Coiler Project
                pics @: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2029646&id=1407702837&l=02d75d048d

                Comment

                • TedW
                  5th Gear
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 887

                  #9
                  3M 8115 Panel Adhesive

                  Originally posted by fishguy
                  Is that the 3M stuff mentioned in the links? Looks like good stuff but the gun is a bit pricey.
                  I have the gun if anyone wants to borrow it. I also have an unopened tube of 3M 8115 and tips for sale.

                  I used this stuff to replace my right rear quarterpanel. It's fantastic. I thought I'd need two tubes, but didn't even use one - so it goes a long way, and I did NOT apply it sparingly.

                  Proper surface prep is key - common sense to anyone on this site.

                  PM me for handy hints when the time comes.

                  Comment

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