Understanding the In's & Out's of Paint System Selection

[Bertha]

The steps laid out in Kevkon's post pretty well cover the process, however I will add a few points:
I would not paint in your house. I think your best bet is to buy one of those outdoor tents that kmart/wallmart sells for $150.00. You can buy the sides for another 30.00. Its large enough to fit all the pieces of a disassembled Land Rover. I would also get a fan for sucking the air out of your "spray tent" Total investment may be somewhere in the 300.00 range, but you will be saving thousands $$$ by doing yourself, so a few dollars thrown at the right equipment is not money wasted. I would also wait until spring time to spray. It is very hard to work against mother nature. You can strip and prep all your parts over the winter and spray once the weather is a steady 65-70 degress with avg humidity. The paint will lay out really nice at that temperature.

[kevkon]

I think this site will help you;http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/faq/LRpaintMain.html

[JackIIA]

Anyone have a good site(s) that will cover all the broad basics on automotive paint SELECTION? Or feel like giving the forum a tutorial??

I've found some pretty good ones discussing painting technique and prep, but none that clearly layout actual selection of a painting system and the best brands for each choice. Sites like Dupont, PPG, and House of Kolor, assume you already know what you're doing and are just need to know color or chemical specs. And it's not even clear if these are always chemically cured paints, or still offer more old fashion alternatives.

Originally I was going to go with the isocyanates for a durable fade-free finish, but the more I read about the paint vapor particle 'hang time' even long after painting (UK Health Services have some great videos on this) and skin absorption risks, the more scared I got (e.g., hardener setting up in my lungs). Even with a self-contained breathing system, I think it's just not safe for my hobby-level of tools/skill.

I'll be using a HVLP set-up, with a good CFM compressor; painting 'booth' is a basement room with limited ventilation. Breathing is a self-contained fresh air unit half-mask, and 'curing' will be around 65 degrees using a small oil-filled portable radiator.

So....I'm probably going semi-old school, something along the lines of the 1970's era of painting. I believe that's post-laquer stuff and were known as urethanes? Downsides? Not the best choice??

Thanks all, as always.