Bonnet steel frame?

[LH Drive]

Where can I find a new or rust free steel frame for the S3 bonnet /hood? Mine is rusted out and I only need the frame, don't want to purchase a complete bonnet just to butcher it for the frame. Can't find the part number for it in our hosts site.

[57109]

Best bet is to find one from a hood that has too many dents in it for it's current owner. They are not available separately from Land Rover.
Regards
Gord'n Perrott
Lamorna Garage
Seattle

[tweaked]

Have someone weld up a new one based on your current rusted out frame.

[morgant]

Hmm, been wondering about this for mine as well.

Once the bonnet is removed and the fasteners/rivets holding the skin to the frame are also removed, can the frame be slid out through the rear or does one have to anneal & bend the skin? Wondering what kind of job restoring it is.

Anyone do this kind of thing? (Not that it's high on my list right now.)

[Bud]

For Non Deluxe bonnet: Removal of the skin is not hard, just time consuming. No annealing is necessary for removal or reassembly.

All rivets must removed from top of skin. Center punch, drill tiny hole in center of dome head rivet until below height of skin. Follow up with 1/8" bit, and then 3/16". The head will be cut off with the last bit. Use broad center punch to knock remainder of rivet out of steel frame.

On the underside of bonnet, drill out pop rivets at corners.

Frame can then be slid rearwards out of skin. Flange at rear of skin can be negotiated without problem.

Do what you want to preserve/repair the frame. Reassemble with your choice of rivets from center outwards. Pop-rivets could be used first to hold panels in alignment, then go back and replace with correct dome heads.

If you care at all about your original paint or having flat/smooth panels, never use a chisel to remove rivets, it's always worth the extra effort to drill patiently.

[Leslie]

If you care at all about your original paint or having flat/smooth panels, never use a chisel to remove rivets, it's always worth the extra effort to drill patiently.

Ack!


For removing rivets, I don't use a chisel, I use a screwdriver that I sharpened on a bench grinder. However, the trick is, don't cut the head off against the aluminum: cut the back of the rivet off on the side where the steel is; if the rivet doesn't fall right out, a punch will pop it on out. Much quicker than drilling, doesn't mar the aluminum that way.

[LH Drive]

Ack!


For removing rivets, I don't use a chisel, I use a screwdriver that I sharpened on a bench grinder. However, the trick is, don't cut the head off against the aluminum: cut the back of the rivet off on the side where the steel is; if the rivet doesn't fall right out, a punch will pop it on out. Much quicker than drilling, doesn't mar the aluminum that way.

Same method but I transformed a sharpened 1/2" wood chisel to a aluminum rivet remover and it worked great. Now I just have to buy a wood chisel for my next wood project.

[thixon]

You can also use a flap wheel on a grinder. Works like a charm, you just have to have a light touch. Once you grind the back of the rivet into oblivion (which takes about a second), you can smack the rivet with an awl/punch/screwdriver and it'll fly right out.

Also, I'm willing to do this kind of work on a limited basis for anyone interested. Just PM me and we can talk about it.