Installing new shocks (and what brand?)

[NickDawson]

Hey folks,
Sorry for starting the new thread, wanted to separate the install question from the original issue.

I've started researching shocks to replace my driver's side rear shock that pulled apart. My inclination was OME just because its a brand I've always known (never had occasion to use though). So I was budgeting about $250 - thought I'd just replace the two rear shocks...

After spending 10 minutes looking at it, I realized I'd have to pull the wheels. Probably a good afternoon's worth of work for me, but didn't seem like more than 20-40 minutes for a shop with a lift. I thought in sheer interest of my own time that I'd call around and see if there was a local place that would sell and install them. They all keep telling me that it will be a few hours of labor.

First question - does that sound right? If it is a few hours, I'd rather do it myself, but that leads to #2
Is it that hard? I assume you have to compress them somehow to get them in place - does that require something special?

What is involved in installing new shocks on my own? It really looks as though it should be easy (excepting the compression part).

Finally, anyone have opinions about brands? One local guy was big on heckethorn - new name to me. If I'm going to do it myself, I'd just assume order from our hosts.

Thanks as always

[Andrew IIA]

This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Shouldn't take more than 20 min. per wheel/shock. The shocks (usually) come compressed by a light metal rod-thingy, but they compress by hand easily. Top fixture is a bolt & washer, bottom fixture is a washer/cotter pin (or a bent nail if the cotter pin breaks). Getting the wheels off will be more work than installing the shocks

I've had 'Pro-Comp' and 'OME'. I prefer the OME (sturdier and have better one-piece poly bushings).

Best regards, Andrew
'63 SIIA 88" SW

[NickDawson]

This is definitely a do-it-yourself job. Shouldn't take more than 20 min. per wheel/shock. The shocks (usually) come compressed by a light metal rod-thingy,

Done deal - thats all I needed to know - thanks Andrew!

[galen216]

20 minute job if everything goes right. Being a Land Rover it won't. It is an easy DIY but took me a lot longer than 20 minutes a wheel.

[bmohan55]

Very easy. I took my front ones off while rebuilding my swivel balls to give me more room to work, and I've gotten to enjoy taking things apart. Electric impact wrench from Harbor freight was a big help on the top bolts, bottom was held in by finishing nails!

While you are at it suggest you swing by Thurston Spring in Richmond to have them look at your leaf springs. I'm going to have them rebuild my flatted back ones soon as I'm done putting my front end back together.

[stomper]

I learned how to do shocks at a very young age from my father on 1980's Ford pick-up trucks. While I haven't done them on a rover yet, they are all pretty much the same. You should not have any difficulty, and as said before, they compress by hand easily.

Best advice I will give you though, is to pull out the PB blaster, and spray the shock bolts nightly for about 5 days prior to attempting the job. Trust me, you will thank me later, if you ever have to do them without this added step.

[NickDawson]

Best advice I will give you though, is to pull out the PB blaster, and spray the shock bolts nightly for about 5 days prior to attempting the job. Trust me, you will thank me later, if you ever have to do them without this added step.

Sounds like I got lucky! The bolts came right out when I tried (before I realized that they would not clear the tires by only 1/4 inch).

Thanks again for all the advice. Sounds easy as pie!

bmohan55 - I'll give Thurston a call, thanks!

[GrFa]

Nick, is your truck lifted? You could go with original equipment replacements from RN for $29 per shock. They will be lightyears ahead of your old/rotted ones.

[NickDawson]

Just spoke with our hosts - they talked me into the $189 ProComp kit over OME or Bilstien... What can I say, I'm a sucker for a deal Plus I can replace all 4 for less than two OMEs.

[Drain Rovers2]

Good choice... you will like them, good luck with the install!

[TeriAnn]

Hey folks,
I've started researching shocks to replace my driver's side rear shock that pulled apart. My inclination was OME just because its a brand I've always known (never had occasion to use though). So I was budgeting about $250 - thought I'd just replace the two rear shocks...

Your budget is a little generous. I just checked and the OMEs are $95 each (real expensive in my book) so two would be $190 But I understand that they are very good shocks.

[TeriAnn]

Your budget is a little generous. I just checked and the OMEs are $95 each (real expensive in my book) so two would be $190 But I understand that they are very good shocks.

Ooops just noticed that you already picked up a set of ProComps. I should have read the whole thread before replying.

[NickDawson]

Well, its a rover!
Got the wheel off, the top shock bolt came out in like 8 minutes... Im cruising along.. and boom.
The cotter pin on the bottom was actually welded. Who does that? I was able to cut the pin out but the rest has me stumped. If there was a bolt, it is no so rounded as to be a metal blob. I could cut it as well, but I fear that the threads are actually at the back of the receptacle (which is integrated with the axle springs bracket). Any tips without having to buy a new bracket? No amount of PB Blaster is going to fix this, that thing is as round as a dowel.
The green bible says that once you remove the pin then the rest is just a washer... but that is also stuck on there.

[Sputnicker]

Don't worry - it's not a bolt. It's a perfectly round smooth pin with a hole for the cotter pin. You should be able to lever off the big washer if you've already removed the pin.

[TeriAnn]

Well, its a rover!
Got the wheel off, the top shock bolt came out in like 8 minutes... Im cruising along.. and boom.
The cotter pin on the bottom was actually welded. Who does that? I was able to cut the pin out but the rest has me stumped. If there was a bolt, it is no so rounded as to be a metal blob. I could cut it as well, but I fear that the threads are actually at the back of the receptacle (which is integrated with the axle springs bracket). Any tips without having to buy a new bracket?

eewwww!!!

That shock mount shaft is welded to the bottom plate and does not come off.

If it were me I'd just go shopping for a good used bottom plate & by the looks of things a new set of U bolts. Some battles are just not worth fighting.