Installing new shocks (and what brand?)

[NickDawson]

If it were me I'd just go shopping for a good used bottom plate & by the looks of things a new set of U bolts. Some battles are just not worth fighting.

Yeah, guess that is Plan B. In the mean time, anyone think I'm suicidal to be driving around town (surface roads) without a driver's side rear shock?

Edited to add - HOLY COW! $75 for that plate? Back to plan A - guess I can try and cut that washer off/out but how will I get something to fit over the rounded bolt? The rest of the cotter pin is still in the post. Any ideas?

While I'm at it I'm going to order a new frame, body, engine, drive train...

Now I get the old joke:
How do you change the oil in a series?
1) remove old oil filter
2) do a frame-up restoration
3) fill with fresh oil

[NickDawson]

Don't worry - it's not a bolt. It's a perfectly round smooth pin with a hole for the cotter pin. You should be able to lever off the big washer if you've already removed the pin.

I really think the washer might have been welded on.. at least fused. Next time I have a full weekend I'll go at it again. I might also go back to the idea of finding a shop that doesn't quote 5-7 hours

[siiirhd88]

I have used a pin punch to dive out the remains of the cotter pins when they break off. I have also had to drill out pin remains when they were hopelessly rusted. A 4" angle grinder should be able to cut off the washer or grind thru the welds enough for it to be knocked off.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[Nium]

Destroy the washer

Happy Holidays Nick,

Put a rotary wire brush in a drill and clean off as much rust and muck as you can from the post the shock mounts to.

Ideas on how to remove the washer...

1. Place a chisel/screwdriver between washer and shock and drive it in to seperate washer from shock.
2. Drill holes across the diameter of the washer to break it off.
3. Hacksaw just above post for shock or below it, staying parallel to it and only cutting through washer and shock.
4. Portable band saw instead of hacksaw and go through the washer and lower part of shock, staying off mounting post for shock and running parallel to it.
5. Sawzall fitted with metal blade.
6. If you want to try and keep washer get a three arm gear puller and try and pull it off.

As for the remnants of the cotter pin I agree with siiirhd88 in using a pin punch to drive the pin out of the shock mounting post.

After you get it all apart go at with the wire brush in the drill till all rust gone and lube up good with anti-seize or grease or paint with cold galvanizing paint and then grease. Install new shock.

[stomper]

Looks nasty, and with the shock broken, you can't lever it around on the pin to break it free. If you have a big pipe wrench, you can lock it onto the remainger of the shock, and try and spin it around the mounting pin. keep working the PB Blaster into it, and it should free itself from the pin. You do need to get the restof the cotter pin out, and the drift pin is about the only way.

While the cutting of the washer will work, try a torch. The rubber shock bushing should burn out of there, and free the shock as well. Just make sure you have an extinguisher handy, and are in a well ventilated area, with no gas around.

[Jim-ME]

I saw set of 4 galvanized mounts on Ebay which for $100 which ncluded shipping.
Jim

[kevkon]

I'd definately go wih new mounts with that much corrosion. You will be thankfull down the road. And when you consider the time involved in trying to clean up those existing ones and getting that cotter out, you will see what a bargain new mounts will be.

[NickDawson]

thanks gang, lots to think about, and wrong time of year for big Rover costs...
I know I could get the old washer off with my sawzall and even cut the old shock bottom out if I had to.... I worry that the post itself is now damaged from corrosion. If I go that route, I'll take the advice of cleaning it off with a pipe cleaner in a drill.

I'm still wondering about the risks of driving around town without a shock on one side.

If its minimal then I dont mind waiting a month and buying some new or used mounts.

As always, thanks again folks!

[Nium]

I don't believe it would hurt anything to drive without shock. It would just be very bouncy because well because of the lack of something to absorb shocks . Just take it slow and easy, oh wait that shouldn't be a problem in a Series Landy.

Cheers

[NepentheSea]

I was replacing the shocks on my girlfriends Jeep- It had two threaded studs mounted to the underbody to hold a bar that goes through the top of the shock. One side came off fine, the other side one of the studs broke. I drove it up to a shop (with only three shocks) to have another stud welded in. I had no trouble at all driving while missing a shock- I think you'd be fine.

[NickDawson]

Some may recall from the start of this thread that I drove it 3 hours on the highway already without said shock... what does it say that the right did not change a bit ?

Just wanted to make sure that stopping and starting wasn't going to cause the axle to move front to back... guess thats the just of the axel mounts not the shock?

[brucejohn]

Nick, I can't think of a structural reason you need a shock. They carry no weight. Isn't their only purpose to retard the spring's nature to bounce.

Maybe your rig will sway more, though I doubt it. Wait until you can do it right, you'll be happier in the long run.

[NickDawson]

Nick, I can't think of a structural reason you need a shock. They carry no weight. Isn't their only purpose to retard the spring's nature to bounce.

Maybe your rig will sway more, though I doubt it. Wait until you can do it right, you'll be happier in the long run.

That was the answer I wanted to hear (I feel like a corporate CEO, just keep asking until you get the answer you want, even if its not the right one)

Thanks Brucejohn!

[brucejohn]

That was the answer I wanted to hear (I feel like a corporate CEO, just keep asking until you get the answer you want, even if its not the right one)

Thanks Brucejohn!

No problem - fire me anytime. As I usually say when giving advice, 'the round bin is always nearby.'

[scott]

missing or bad shocks will affect braking distance. as you're driving the shocks damping the spring action which will tend to keep your rubber in contact with the road which is kind of what ya need when breaking. but given our brakes suck when operating at their best i don't know if an overly bouncing wheel(s) would make things much worse