Clutch still slipping

[jp-]

Scott,

It's all in good fun. I just hate to see people get themselves into more trouble than they really need to. So I guess you could say I'm against self-torture.

[northoceanbeach]

Well, I would like to say that I have progress but I don't.

Here's what I did today though. I unbolted the slave and put the washers on the other side of the bolts to try to see if spacing it back might help. It did nothing.

But I noticed something on my test drive today. I have this loop that included a couple small hills that I go on every time I try something new. The hills are where I really notice it. Well on the beginning of the drive it seemed to not be slipping. And I think it has been like this on every drive. But the second half of this short 10 minute drive it stated slipping. I could be imagining things, but it really didn't seem to slip at first, but then it started.

I really am out of ideas. I did take the floor plates off and the flywheel plate but mine doesn't hav e a hole to look down into to see if the throwout is seated right. But I there is a weird hole on the top left of the transmission. And it doesn't look exactly right. I'm not sure. On the top left there is a circular hole on the back of this spring looking think, and it looks like it was cut there, it's not perfectly circular. I don't know what this particular part of the transmission is, but I'm just trying to throw everything I notice out to you guys, because I don't know, maybe something I think nothing of is significant to someone with more experience. I'm starting to think I can't do this, I really can't imagine at this point what it could possilbly be.

[Hormel]

Does the hole on the left side look like the one in the upper left this picture? It looks hacked out on my case also, which i came across while replacing the slave cylinder. I believe there is a castle nut on top of a spring there. I was wondering if it had been knocked off to install a different transmission later, but I have no idea what it is there for.


By the way I am a new user. Great site!
John
1967 2a 109 5 Door Station Wagon

[jp-]

North,

Did you check the clutch pressure, as indicated in the beginning of this thread? You never mentioned if you did. We can't move on to new ideas until you have gone through the first suggestions.

By the way, I think you will have to remove your shifter to get to the access hole, but it isn't tough.

[northoceanbeach]

Ok, you're right sorry. So here goes.

yes it does look like that hole, but mine is smaller, about the size of a dime.

I called the place I got the parts from and they said that the pressure plate and clutch are the right size. And I did match them up before I put them in. The pressure plate looked a little different but same size.

The clutch is in the right way. The side that has the stuff sticking out is toward the trans. The flatter side I put towards the flywheel.

I used an alignment tool and it all slid in nicely.

Can't say that it's all torqued right. I had no torque wrench, I just tightened it about how I thought it felt when I took it off. Really tight, but I could've done it tighter.

I think the slave is the right way round. Where the two metal pipes connect on the back, one side is at a 30 degree angle, that side I put on top and it connects to the bleeder.

I don't know if the lever for the throwout bearing is being blocked by something. I hope not. I'll try to remove the gearstick and look down in there.

The pedal height seems good. It's about half an inch lower than my brake pedal and it sure seems to have freeplay. I originally thought that it had something to do with the master linkage adjustment, because mine is hooked to the very tip of the push rod, but I've moved it front and back and it slips no matter what and I do have that freeplay.

As for pressure, I don't know how much should squirt out but once I get the bleeding under way I pump the pedal three times and then hold it to the floor. Unscrew the bleeder bolt and it squirts out pretty good, not a whole lot comes out each time, maybe about a tablespoon full, but it shoots out pretty good.

[jp-]

As for pressure, I don't know how much should squirt out but once I get the bleeding under way I pump the pedal three times and then hold it to the floor. Unscrew the bleeder bolt and it squirts out pretty good, not a whole lot comes out each time, maybe about a tablespoon full, but it shoots out pretty good.

I know that if you hold the pedal down fluid will rush out, what I want to know is if you pump the pedal up three or four times and RELEASE it, then open the bleed screw; does fluid spray out then?

[northoceanbeach]

Oh, ok, I didn't get it, I'll try that. Thanks.

[TSR53]

By the way I am a new user. Great site!
John
1967 2a 109 5 Door Station Wagon

Welcome aboard to the forum, glad to see you sign up and post . Your first submission included a photo too, schweet!

ps thanks for the kudos on the site...

[LaneRover]

Just thought I would throw a question out that I don't know the answer to. Is there a chance that the clutch actuating arm is the wrong one? Or is somehow bent in such a way that the clutch will not fully engage? Honestly I don't know enough about Rover clutches (or any for that matter) to know if that is a possibility. If it is a possibility and it is happening I think that one symptom might be a bit more wear than expected on the throwout bearing.

LaneRover

[scott]

n o b,

you're lucky that i'm so lazy. i put my tranny back in sunday and still haven't bolted down the seatbox or put in the floor boards so i was able to go out and snap this shot. there are 4 nuts, 3 are arrowed, the inspection port is outline in yellow.

[northoceanbeach]

Well, it's been raining here for the past couple days so I haven't gotten out to fixing things, I don't have a garage. I figure the last thing I want is my transmission getting rained IN. But it looks like today is going to be nice so I will open it and look inside and try the slave pressure test mentioned above.

Thanks alot for going to the trouble of taking the pictures, I really appreciate all the help.

[BackInA88]

Well, it's been raining here for the past couple days so I haven't gotten out to fixing things, I don't have a garage. I figure the last thing I want is my transmission getting rained IN. But it looks like today is going to be nice so I will open it and look inside and try the slave pressure test mentioned above.

Thanks alot for going to the trouble of taking the pictures, I really appreciate all the help.

It's got to be rough dealing with rain when you have to put up with living in Hawaii!

[LH Drive]

I also have a Series III and the only clutch adjustment I found was when I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder.
In the attached picture you can see that the push rod is threaded on one side where it is attached to the clutch pedal. You will have to remove the dust cover on the clutch MC bracket. I had to remove the whole fender(wing) to get access to this on my 1972 left hand drive Series III.


Also make sure you don't have any air in the system. Bleed the clutch using some rubber tubbing atached to the slave cylinder slave bleed screw going into a jar filled 1/4 with some clutch fluid in it . Un-screw the slave bleed screw and pump the clutch pedal till you free the sytem of air. Keep an eye on the clutch master cylinder fluid level as it will empty. As soon as no more air bubbles appear in the jar, tighten the slave bleed screw with an open box wrench then remove the tube. This should give you full pedal hight.

[scott]

best way to bleed a clutch or brake is a long tube that will reach from the bleed valve all the way back to the rez. fix the rez end so that it is submerged and stays submerged and pump away

[LH Drive]

Were you sold the correct Clutch Release Bearing? Did you place them side by side, new next to old and see that they were the same. I've seen pictures of two different lengths, one tall and one short. Also did you tighten the PP all the way to mesh with the Fly Wheel? On a Diaphram PP this has to be done in a cross pattern gradually and evenly, if not you may damage the Clutch Disk plate. What kind of PP did you install, Diaphram or Coil spring cover ?