T-Gasket on rear main?

[superpowerdave]

Okay - pulled the motor. Fun times.

Found the rear main seal had been affixed using blue silicone ... more fun times. Once I get everything cleaned up and ready, where do the t-gaskets go? I got two with my kit and there weren't any on the old seal.

Rig in question is a 1963 109 diesel. Thanks in advance.

[SafeAirOne]

They go along the sides of the rear main bearing cap. I'll see if I can find the picture...

[SafeAirOne]

T-Seal

[superpowerdave]

So the head has to come off to replace the rear main?

Where did you find the picture? I searched and searched in vain.

[SafeAirOne]

So the head has to come off to replace the rear main?

I don't think so. The picture shows the engine upside-down, as if it is inverted on an engine stand with the oil pan removed. What you see there is the crankshaft. The round part on the left of the diagram is the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel and clutch assembly bolt up. (the pic is of a 2.5 engine, but it is essentially the same as the 2.25 as far as the t-gasket goes)

Where did you find the picture? I searched and searched in vain.

I got mine out of the defender 90/110 workshop manual, just because I know RIGHT where it is. You can also find the info on the SIII WSM on page 12-41 (section 12-21-20).

See items (and paragraphs) 25, 26 and 32 from the SIII WSM, below:

[superpowerdave]

Safeair-

Thanks. Now that I got off my lazy can and walked out to the garage I see where I'm an idiot Although in the first picture where the number "9" is shown appears as though it protrudes beneath the oil pan ... I'll flip her over tomorrow and take a look.

So Hylomar for the moon shaped halves, and silicone grease for the t-gaskets? Anything else I might need

[SafeAirOne]

Safeair-

Although in the first picture where the number "9" is shown appears as though it protrudes beneath the oil pan ... I'll flip her over tomorrow and take a look.

So Hylomar for the moon shaped halves, and silicone grease for the t-gaskets? Anything else I might need

The #9s in the first picture of the 2.5 are the same as the #27s in the other picture from the 2.25. They are guides that you temporarily put on to squeeze the t-gaskets in when you slide the bearing cap on, so the gaskets won't get hooked on the bottom of the engine during installation.

I don't know what else you'll need. I've never done a 2.25 and am still in the disassembly phase on my 2.5.

One thing I DO know (and it isn't really explained well in step 32) is that the t-gasket should stick up a little bit beyond the bottom of the surface, so that the oil pan squishes it down. This is better illustrated in the 2.5 Workshop Manual:

[Tim Smith]

I just did this last night.

It's a bit of a bugger without the #9 pieces but it is possible if you are gentle and use some thin metal to help guide the gaskets in without them ripping or getting cut. I opted for a bud can because it seemed to be the thinnest aluminum can of the bunch.

Not the best pictures but I hope this helps.


There are a couple more shots of the fitting found here, near the bottom:

http://picasaweb.google.com/smithco1/25Motor?authkey=Gv1sRgCNqe2fvO0OKgeA&feat=directlink

Just go nice and easy and be sure not to rip the gaskets at all as you are putting the cap in.

[superpowerdave]

Tim I tried a Keystone light can left over from a party and it was too thin! Wound up using real shims, quit an issue getting those in there.

I still don't know how things ended up the way they did on that one. We bought the rig in February, got her started and then I deployed and she sat for the duration. Got home in October, got her running and did some test driving, noticed the oil leak pretty quick.

Once we got the motor pulled and everything apart we saw the problem pretty fast - the PO had at one point slathered the two-piece retaining seal with blue silicone! It was everywhere. Once I got that removed I saw the seal and think the reason it failed was the silicone - it couldn't get a good seal because of it.

Anyway, after a lot of time cleaning things up and removing all the silicone (was all over the oil pan too) see went together smoothly and I've started buttoning things back up.

With any luck I'll have her back on the road next week. Thanks again for all of the advice, really came through.

[philbert]

On a related note, and to avoid a new thread, is anyone actually trimming the top aspect of the T-seal (side facing the cylinder head) as directed in the green manual? I tried this but i could not find a good way to evenly trim that surface of the Tseal.

[jimrr]

i do not recall trimming anything .......... i do know you're much better off avoiding RTV, i use permatex. i haven't done those crank seals in years but comparing the seal system to modern stuff it's no wonder land rovers leak!!!,

[roverp480]

I had the T seals start leaking on an 18 month old Series 3 . The seals had shrunk and were recessed about 1/8" into the cap . Rather than dismantle the engine I cut short lengths of seal about 1/4" long , coated them with Wellseal , pushed then into the recess, and then bolted the oil pan back on with a new gasket.. This pushed the new bits into the grove and also compressed the existing 'T' pieces making them seal better on the block/cap joint and cured the problem.

[philbert]

i do not recall trimming anything .......... i do know you're much better off avoiding RTV, i use permatex. i haven't done those crank seals in years but comparing the seal system to modern stuff it's no wonder land rovers leak!!!,

Which permatex product do you use? Ultra black? Gasket maker? It seems like there are a lot of different opinions on the best product to use for the rear crankshaft seal, and it seems super important since this area is prone to leaking oil.

As for trimming the flat part of the t-piece, its mentioned in step #26 on the diagram in a previous post on this thread. My worry is that if the cut is not perfectly square it might actuality worsen any leak. At this point I'll likely leave it uncut and hope for the best

[jimrr]

re; which permatex, the old stuff that's horrible to get on your hands.......... kinda brown, permatex form a gasket liquid sealent .... i just went and looked at a can of it. ............. you really need to wait a half hr. or something before mating the surfaces as it works so much better then ..... also, on gaskets like a oil pan it really holds the gasket in place but you do have to let it dry a while.
rtv sucks in my opinion. it is sure easy to use, looks nice etc. but when you undo something you always see the rtv has formed a nice thin layer but it hasn't stuck well to anything really. i like the stuff you have to really dig at to get it off.