Ahhhh wiring.

[Nanoose]

In one of those series of unfortunate events, a slight incident has pushed me to switching from positive to negative ground (earth). I'd been avoiding looking behind the instrument cluster but just opened it up and this is what it looks like.

I was surprised to see the relay. I don't know if that's for 4-way flashers or for turn signals. At the moment, if I turn on the right signal it actls like flashers, everything blinks. If I turn it to the left, nada. If it was a four way I'd assume that there would be someway to switch it back to normal ops but haven't found that yet. I'm guessing that it's a two way flasher (there are three wires going into it) and that a PO found the original switch wasn't working so replaced it with this.




I also took off the speedo cable (it hasn't been working for a bit). Is there supposed to be something on the end? I found little bits of metal in the female end on the back of the gauge and assume that's not completely normal...






Thanks!

Dave

[LaneRover]

If you use your right flasher and everything blinks and then use the left and nothing blinks I would check your ground connections.

[Jeff Aronson]

If you can drive your car slowly with the dash open like this, and safely enough so you can keep your eye and/or hand on the cable, move forward and see/feel if it turns.

If it does, then the problem is inside the speedometer. They are repairable; I've sent mine to Rovers North and received it back good as new. If the cable doesn't turn, then you can assume it's broken and requires replacement. Rarely, the problem is in the speedometer drive at the transfer case.

As for the relay, check the power out of the relay itself. And also remove a bulb on that side and use a test light to see if you get power to the socket. If so, then the problem is probably in the ground itself.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Nanoose]

Well that was a bit of a waste of time...

I guess any time spent working on the truck is productive but today is one of those times I've little to show for it. I figured the first thing to do was to see if I could get power to the left turn signal. I had replaced the original bulb holder and ran the three wires into the existing loom. The white wire out of the new holder to the white wire in the loom. I checked with a meter and the wire showed ground. I connected the two new black wires to the red and black in the old loom and...nada.

Took the loom apart a bit and discovered really rusted and corroded bullet connectors. Couldn't really figure out where they went but here's a photo of what the loom looks like exposed a bit.



Wiring terminates in this little round junction box. Any idea what this correlates to on page P6 of the GB?



Decided to see if I've got a solid ground so began tracing the white wire back - I assumed it would ground close to the light but it actually runs across the front of the truck and disappears under the battery someplace.




As I poked around I realized that the wiring for the rear of the truck seems to run down the passenger side. I followed that for a bit and discovered that there was some new (non-original) wiring at the rear, just under the passenger side brake light. There was a wire hanging and a connection broken off so I thought I'd see what happened if I re-connected it.



Well, the problem didn't get fixed but the symptoms changed. Now I have no front flashers at all. When I turn on the signal (either way) the relay clicks, both rear lights blink and my headlights dim in time with the flasher.

Time to go for a walk...

I think I must be missing something obvious. Both rear lights seem to have a ground wire from the bulb to the aluminum chassis. Is this correct?

[J.McKelvey]

Wiring is always a mess. Sometimes its easier to just replace and rewire. You don't have to do the whole thing just sections of it. With my 80" I landed up getting a new harness because it was simpler and there wasn't anything really left.

Early series 1 models didn't come standard with flashers and most times its just a mickey mouse job done along the rovers life. Its worth just running new wires.

You probably have these wiring diagrams but I thought it wouldn't hurt.

That junction box is always head scratchier

John

[oestlarsen]

Just echoing Jeff here -
I had same issues w/ speedo. In my case, the cable coating was breached under the truck and consequently rusted/ruined it. I installed a new cable, then watched it turn as I drove.

My speedo itself was also toast. I took it apart myself and discovered that the hairspring was broken (tiny spring). I opted, for cost saving reasons, to wait w/ the refurbishing (Nisonger etc.) and sourced a used speedo. I painted the bezel, and cleaned it up, and everything works now.

[Nanoose]

Update

1.) Made the switch from Positive to Negative ground and followed the instructions from our gracious host...no problem. Note to self: use insulated tools next time.

2.) Replaced the distributor (I'd cracked the vacuum advance body and found it cheaper to replace the whole unit). Also made the switch to electronic ignition at the same time. Nice difference.

3.) Timed the engine and adjusted the carb, will take some more fiddling but it sounds pretty good right now. Certainly less missing and more complete ignition.

4.) Still no joy on the flashers.

5.) Heading out now to see if I can figure out if the speedo cable turns.

Thanks for all the help!!!

Dave

[marsjess]

bullet connectors

Most of my wiring problems were related to these push in connectors for all the lights and grounds. I cut them off and crimped them together with what we call popcorn connectors. They look like wire nuts but they crimp together. Havn't had light problems since.

[jac04]

What electronic ignition did you go with?

[Nanoose]

Jac04...

I went with a "True Spark" ignition. Not because I knew anything about but because the person I was buying the distributor from wouldn't sell me Pertronix(?) I don't have any experience with different brands but they'd been profoundly unlucky selling the units (lots of problems) and had decided to avoid them at all costs.

For me, the switch to electronic ignition was a side benefit. I cracked the vacuum advance body on the distributor and the cost and time necessary to replace made a new distributor more convenient. And I was just plain tired of fiddling with points and condensor.

I bought a new distributor (45D4) to replace the original 25D4 with the electronic ignition (complete with cap) and a new coil for about $250. It dropped in perfectly and fired right up. The only issue was MacGyvering a connection for the vacuum advance line as I've got copper into the Solex carb and needed a flexible (non threaded) connection to the dizzy. Only took a short trip to the parts store to figure that out.

Dave