Removing a Generator from an Old Series II-A

[Jeff Aronson]

One of my II-A's still has a generator/positive ground system. When the charge light remained on last week, I called Rovers North and received a diagnostic procedure to determine whether the problem was in the voltage regulator [rare] or generator. It appears the problem is with the generator.

Yes, I have already whacked it with a hammer [which worked two years ago] and cleaned all the terminals.

I found an old generator at home, bought new brushed, oiled the bushing and greased the bearing, cleaned everything up inside with quantities of spray cleaner, and reassembled it. It sounds great turning.

Now comes the hard part - removing the old generator. With much grunting, the nuts and bolts came off the adjusters. Now the problem lies with a threaded rod inserted into the block onto which the rear ear rests. I can't remove the rod so as to extract the generator. Also, the motor mount seems in the way.

It's been over 10 years since I last made myself this miserable with the same task on the other II-A. I've tried double nutting it, but the bottom nut only turns on the threaded rod. I've put in a lot of PB Blaster, but to no avail yet.

Any hints? It's a bear!

Thanks,

Jeff

[singingcamel]

jeff, i would first like to commend you on the wonderful articles you have written for Rovers norththru the years they are wonderful.

thats the first section i go to when i recieve their news letter. i admire your stubborness and persistance with these old rovers, i tip my hat to you
i would try to heat it up with a torch if you have one and try to back it out, we call it cherring the darn thing. watch the gas. back it out with a vise grip, be careful and good luck.thanks again . marc
www.singingcamel.com

[jp-]

I've had some luck in the past, welding a nut onto a stuck or broken off bolt and then turning it out with a wrench. If the threaded rod is grade 8 (you did use grade 8 didn't you?) then it will probably turn out, otherwise it will break off.

[Jeff Aronson]

Welding Nut

I've had some luck in the past, welding a nut onto a stuck or broken off bolt and then turning it out with a wrench. If the threaded rod is grade 8 (you did use grade 8 didn't you?) then it will probably turn out, otherwise it will break off.

I didn't install the threaded rod; actually, I always try and use a smooth shanked bolt, lathered with NeverSeize, instead of the rod.

Wish me luck - I'm going to tackle it again this afternoon.

Jeff

[Jeff Aronson]

Marc,

Thanks for your kind words. I appreciate your compliments and hopefully, will be able to entertain and inform for a long time to come.

I'll try some heat but I only have a small propane torch - nothing useful around an engine block. I'll be at this afternoon.

Best wishes,

Jeff

[jp-]

Jeff,

Have you tried a pair of these:

http://www.labsafety.com/store/Facilities_Maintenance/Hand_Tools/Pliers/52873/42765/?isredirect=true

If you have enough room to get the buster on, it can work wonders. It'll grip into threads like you wouldn't believe. If you put a nut on the rod before you try to use the pliers on it, the nut will probably back out the threaded rod if the pliers won't (because the pliers will bugger up the threads pretty good).

[Jeff Aronson]

Yes, without realizing it, I did try ChannelLock pliers. There's no room to use them from under the car because this one has the inner fender wells.

I'll posted my "solution" shortly.

Jeff

[Jeff Aronson]

Generator Removed

Thanks for all your advice. Yesterday late afternoon, I tackled the problem again. I checked for stuck washers, or invisible nuts, from above and from underneath.

Finally, I started to just wiggle it madly on the very-stuck threaded rod. Doing so with increasing violence finally broke the rear ear , which did release the generator. Using a screwdriver, I could pry the remains of the ear off the rod -which still refuses to move.

When I tried a test fit of the one I rebuilt, I found it quite hard to insert onto the rod. So I found a rattail file and opened the hole a bit more. The metal is soft so it was easy to enlarge the hole. It did the trick and it slid on smoothly.

That also let me try and remove the pulley and woodruff key from the shaft of the now-broken generator. With gentle prying and a breaker bar applied firmly to the nut, I managed to get the pieces off without losing any of them, and get them onto the rebuilt generator.

It's been pouring so I've not gone any further with this outdoor repair, but hopefully tomorrow, I can button the whole thing up. I have to polarize the rebuilt generator but with my fingers crossed and prayers said tonight, it should work fine when installed tomorrow.

Wish me luck, and thanks for all your help.

Jeff

[singingcamel]

we're proud of you , jeff..

[Jeff Aronson]

Finally!

This morning, with a major snowstorm predicted, I bundled up and headed outdoors to install the rebuilt generator. Why is that 25 degrees and damp is so much colder than 10 degrees and dry? Ouch!

Of course, the rebuilt generator's front ear had a hole smaller in diameter than the previous one. All of my old bolts are in the toolbox in the QE 1, which of course is on the mainland at the moment.

So I walked to the hardware store in the village to discover they did not have a substitute. But while on the cold walk, I passed the former harbormaster, who lives nearby, and he said he had an old bolt drawer. Fortunately, there was one of the right length, the right diameter and the right shank style.

I was then able to bolt up the generator and tighten the belt [which looked like it was in great shape]. Taking Les Parker's advice, I remembered at the last minute to polarize the generator - great spark from the battery terminal!

I held my breath and started the car. There was a tremendous clacking sound coming from the generator, and the gauge jumped from charge to discharge, and the light blinked, with each clack. I shut it down and restarted it, and everything is working fine. The generator is not heating up, the gauge heads in the right direction, and my cheapo charge light indicates it's charging.

I think I made this repair successful, at least for today. The timing is ideal -6 - 10 inches of slushy snow are predicted for the next 12 hours.

I did try to disassemble the old generator but the two threaded bolts are really stuck in there. I'll wait to see if the PB Blaster does the trick.

Thanks again to everyone for your help.

Jeff

[jp-]

Why is it that 25 degrees and damp is so much colder than 10 degrees and dry?

Water is a better conductor of heat than air.

...he had an old bolt drawer.

Jeff,

You don't have a bolt drawer??? I thought all good mechanics had a bolt drawer. I do.

[Jeff Aronson]

Water is a better conductor of heat than air.




Jeff,

You don't have a bolt drawer??? I thought all good mechanics had a bolt drawer. I do.

First off, I can't claim to be a "good mechanic" but with each year of ownershiop of old British cars, I get better.

Of the two Land Rovers I have, the "bolt drawer" travels with the QE I, the Station Wagon, because it's on the mainland more often and it's good to have everything you need on trips. The repair was to the QM I, the Hardtop. I haven't owned it long enough for it to establish its own bolt drawer.

Jeff