What to do with starter

[vansdonk]

I think I have it figured out. Battery is dead now. I just wanted other opinions on wire placement. If I could fix this wiring stuff with a hammer and vice grips, it would have been done yesterday. Oh, the Irish must hate me!!!!! Does anyone have any advice?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43015168@N08/4336731994/in/photostream/

[SalemRover]

Looks like a rebuilt Nipondenso starter. You'll love it when it is setup. The black wire in the photo goes to the internal solenoid built into the starter unit. That being said you should take the wire (thin 14gauge or so) that goes to the solenoid mounted on the firewall and extend it to this black wire. There may be multiple wires at the solenoid, the wire should be a spade connection and not a ring terminal to one of the large posts. It should only register 12v when the key is in the starter position(series III) or the starter button is depressed(series II /IIA). The bronze/copper nut should be 2 gauge wire to the positive battery terminal. When mounting this unit disconnect the battery ground when attaching the big red wire or you will short your wrenches out trying tighten it. Try to insulate that nut as well, it is live 100% of the time and will give you grief the next time you are working in that area. Hope this helps and this assumes your wiring is stock.

[vansdonk]

Wiring isn't stock. And smallest wire with connector is black, same as other wires. If I could fix this with a hammer and screw driver, I'd have it running right now. I'm and airframer not an electrician. But, right now I have to charge battery/rob one from '69.

[SalemRover]

Well there is a solenoid on the firewall right? It should have spade connectors and 2 bolts for connecting the big boys. A dead battery is a great time to get the starter in and connected. Just give yourself alot of extra wire off that black wire to play with. Figuring out where that goes is the hardest part. But running 2 gauge from the battery to the starter is straight forward. Start with that and try and post a photo of your solenoid. I will be adding fluids to my 109 and can check back later.

[vansdonk]

There isn't a solenoid on the firewall that I can find. Unless I'm picturing something different-voltage regulator. I think all the extra stuff was removed when engine was rebuilt. I'm cleaning house and washing clothes this morning, so I will play with this later. I'll rob the battery from the '69 also. For $50 an old car mech will make a house call, it just has to be during a down time for him. And I work 10-12 hours during the week, so I'll have to be off too. Maybe it's time for a red top Optima like all the others I have. I'll try to take more pics. Sorry I'm so ignorant when it comes to wires. And this old thing is like a huge bird's nest. Make that birds' nests.

[SalemRover]

If you do a google image search on rover solenoid you will see what it looks like. Its a bit bigger than golfball and it is mounted on the engine side of the bulkhead right around the fuel pump area. Its really not that hard to wire. If the mechanic supplies his own 2 gauge wire then 50$ is a steal. Ill check back later. engine oil is done... now diffs and transmission.

[siii8873]

I assume that your truck ran with the existing wiring. The large black wire withh the connector must run to your battery, only one of correct size.
If you don't have a solenoid (removed starter had one). Do you have a schematic of the new starter? If you do post it that will help. What is the make / model may be able to look up online.

[vansdonk]

It runs now. And I didn't need the fire extinguisher. There was a battery shut off switch that I must have engaged while laying on engine bolting up starter. 1 blonde moment used.

[SalemRover]

Congrats. Its quite a huge difference in speed and battery consumption.