brake pedal pressure( new master cylinder) 109 2a mod

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  • LaneRover
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1743

    #16
    Which of the 109's benefit from getting the front end as high as possible when bleeding the brakes? Something about an illusive pocket in the MC if I remember correctly.

    Brent
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

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    • glbft1
      1st Gear
      • Dec 2006
      • 149

      #17
      had the rig front end way up in the air last nite re-bled entire system still the same......

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      • Terrys
        Overdrive
        • May 2007
        • 1382

        #18
        If you use a Handi-Vac, or Mighty Vac, whatever it's called, you don't need to put the vehicle up down or sideways.

        Also, keep in mind, the master cylinder piston is smaller in diameter than the wheel cylinder piston, so if all your brakes are slightly out of adjustment, the amount of fluid the MC pushes, devided by all the wheel cylinders, means that the wheel cylinders only go out a little bit, hence the double pumping.

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        • glbft1
          1st Gear
          • Dec 2006
          • 149

          #19
          thats what i was thinking... going to try to adjust the shoes and then see what happens

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          • siiirhd88
            3rd Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 369

            #20
            When I rebuilt the brakes on the 109 I ended up with the same problem, always a double pump to get a firm pedal. I tried all of the above suggestions, including taking everything apart, fabbing new steel jumper lines and moving the bleeder to the upper wheel cylinder. After a few weeks of careful (sometimes scary....) use, the problem fixed itself and I now have nice, firm, single pump brakes.

            Bob
            '96 Disco SE7
            '80 SIII 109
            '75 SIII 88 V8
            '68 SIIA 109 V8

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            • lew_sa
              Low Range
              • Dec 2006
              • 21

              #21
              I couldn't get my brakes firm until I unbolted the brake backing plate that holds the front wheel cylinders so I could rotate the bleeder screw from the bottom to the top. Once I did that, the wheel cylinders "burped" a big air bubble and all was good. I also used this as an opportunity to replace the front seals and repack the bearings. It didn't take all that long.

              Lew

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              • rovers2a
                Low Range
                • Sep 2008
                • 51

                #22
                .... lol... ARE YOU DUTCH?

                Comment

                • rovers2a
                  Low Range
                  • Sep 2008
                  • 51

                  #23
                  Originally posted by glbft1
                  thats what i was thinking... going to try to adjust the shoes and then see what happens
                  right here. your starting to get a little bit warmer just a tad though, i mean you could always buy another 5 gallons of brake fluid and keep bleeding..." pump, pump it up you, got to pump it up" 'dont you know pump it up' guyzee check it! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HtyF0jux2Q

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                  • glbft1
                    1st Gear
                    • Dec 2006
                    • 149

                    #24
                    We blocked off the rear brakes and the pedal worked , unblocked and went back to 2-3 pumps pulled the rear wheels found the shoes paper thin and the wheel cylinders were sticking and generally bad condition so I will replace I think this is the problem any thoughts

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                    • jac04
                      Overdrive
                      • Feb 2007
                      • 1884

                      #25
                      Glad to see you found the problem.

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