Do I really have to remove the exhaust to drop the starter?

[Lalo88DK]

I have an 24 volt ex military 2,25 petrol, and You do have to remove the exhaust downpipe if you have a 24 volt starter motor, I've just converted from a 24 volt starter to a standard 12 volt starter, and with the 12 volt standard Lucas starter there is no problem in getting the starter in and out, without removing the exhaust pipe.

I got quite experienced in removing exhaust pipe and the 24 volt starter for cleaning and refitting it all again in about an hour in total, I think I have done it about 5 times in the last 3 months The first time I had to fit a new exhaust manifold, the studs broke and the old manifold was cracked.

I'm planning to convert the rest of the Series III from 24 volt to complete 12 volt, so I can get rid of the rest of 24 volt system, For now I'm running both 24 volt and 12 volt systems with 2 alternators and 3 batteries .

[luckyjoe]

(there are brands other than Mean Green).

What brands would these be?

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks Steen, I'll be prepared to remove my exhaust to get the 24v out. No crying over an extra step for a reworked system that will hopefully make life easier and my Rover more reliable.

[junkyddog11]

I do have a Mean Green starter in mine now, and it does crank quite well. However, every so often it will only "whirr" instead of start [it's about 6 years old now], so I don't know if I will continue with that route in the future.

In the past, I've read that the gear teeth don't mesh as correctly with the flywheel teeth as do those on the Lucas starter, but I've never examined this closely. Has anyone done the work on this?

Jeff

yup, several times.....usually in conjunction with replacing the ring gear on the flywheel that the starter has chewed up.

[Rineheitzgabot]

Well, I did have to remove the exhaust; there was no way to do it without removing it.

I also just decided to have my local automotive-electric place rebuild it, instead of me doing it; I am grateful.

It cost me $53. I was impressed, since the rebuild kit was more, and I would have had to do it myself.

Oh, and yes, I did break a stud. Luckily, there was enough hanging out, that some vice grips could get a good bite on...

[Terrys]

The steering has to be put all the way to the right or left to get the starter out (I forget which). Doing this gets the steering arm that comes off of the steering box out of the way jjjuuuuuuusssssttttt enough.

Do you have to jiggle it this way and that? Yes you do, and there have been times that I briefly thought, "Damn! This thing isn't coming out" which is usually followed immediately by it coming out.

Brent

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, push the end of the starter UP, and OUT, towards the fender and it comes right out, bendix first. Goes right back in, in reverse.I have done many, many, and 3 different trucks in the past 2 months. Never did a 24V, so don't know about the diameter of the body, but the 12 volt has plenty of clearance with the wheel turn to the right.
I won a case of Bellhaven last week betting a guy it could be done, and easily. He grunted, groaned, pissed and moaned (after the two nuts were off) rolled the creeper out and declared it can't be done. I cranked the steering wheel, got on the creeper, slide under and came back out with the starter in less than 30 seconds. Now he's claiming I witheld valuable information. Well, Duh! For a case of Bellhaven I'm gonna make it wasy for him?