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Thanks for the reply, I think I will call and buy the kit and spray my other rangies too, keep up the good work guys!
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FWIW - Last year, I made some small frame repairs. I spoke at length to Calef and the RN boys about waxoyl. I went the rattle spray can route.
The black exterior hardwax from the spray can was fine for spot treating the repair spots. It was simple, cost effective, and after a few rallies, lots of mud, and subsequent pressure washing, the wax is holding up fine.
I also bought the 'white' interior spray wax. Exactly as Calef describes, it does not work that well. It did fine enough for me to spray around inside the large cavities I exposed during my repair. But the coating inside was far from even with lots of globs and such. (As Calef described - not a professional result). I am sure that the interior treatments helped as far as rust prevention - I mean it could not have hurt, right?
If was serious about the cavity protection then that little spray snake it definately the way to go. For just a spot treatment without the cost and commitment of the whole job then the rattle can 'ain't that bad'.Firemanshort
1980 Stage One
(Past owner of 1973 Series III - Highlander)
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Great thread-this is on my list of projects for the IIa-my frame is in great shape and appears to have the exterior wax treatment but I don't know if the interior was done. Is there a way to check?
This is OT but I noticed you haven't one balled the MCS Thompson-it's a cheap mod and you'll pick up a few BHP plus a better exhaust tone.64 IIa 88
94 Discovery
06 Toyota 4R (DD)
~Matt
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"Not all who wander are lost"~TolkeinComment
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Aahaa - good eye mate
. My R53 just came off warranty Feb 24th, 2010. My plan is simple. Get all the JCW bits I couldn't when we ordered it new (I know, I know the one ball mod is GOOD and doesn't really cost that much). BUT, I'm a Genuine kinda guy 
and want to see if my original R53 exhaust can match my original on my 1995 Audi S6 with over 202,478 miles and counting... I know it won't but still hope for the best.
On my list of mods
- First up is tires to replace my OE runflats. I need these bad on my BBS R90s. Going with Dunlop Sport Maxx or Direzza Z1s. Before the tire rack special is over.
Next in line, brakes
- JCW brakes (gotta love these and should be on this track season!!!)
Further down the route...
- JCW stainless steel full exhaust (might be sooner than I hope for?)
- JCW full engine kit (or Jan tune and other mods)
Ok back to the subject at hand. Here is how WELL the 120-4 wand works at atomizing Waxoyl clear. Notice Calef is applying this to the right side of my rear hatch and is exiting through the same hole left open on the left !!!
and the oscar winning Waxoyl applicator himself...
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What size patch is on the coveralls??
So I'm guessing the interior of the frame rail should have a white-ish color to it if it has been treated?
sorry back to the R53 (MINI speak for the good one!)
I switched to Goodyear F1's when I wore out my Dunlops at 19K and I loved them. Sticky,much quieter and much better ride but also a higher mileage tire as they are not as soft as the two you mentioned. Throw a compressor and bottle of sealent in the boot and you're set. As for the other mods-the JCW stuff is great but there are some much better choices that run a little less $$.
This is me running the Dragon in my R5364 IIa 88
94 Discovery
06 Toyota 4R (DD)
~Matt
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"Not all who wander are lost"~TolkeinComment
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Ted, I am only aware of one other Waxoyl sister company, Finnegan's... which may be produced by or later relabeled for Hammerite. I am not sure.
A couple of decades ago the Waxoyl product and trademark was purchased by Waxoyl Professional for the entire world, except England where the Finnigan's Waxoyl is from.
Quite some time ago Waxoyl Professional realized that while very good, the Waxoyl formula needed to be updated/ improved. That is when Waxoyl Professional created Hardwax for the underbody, which is significantly more durable than the original Waxoyl and Waxoyl Professional 120-4. 120-4 has a higher temperature resistance, better lubricating properties, better creeping action, and is more durable than the original Waxoyl. To my knowledge the Finnigan's formula has not been updated... granted I know little about Finnigans other than it looks and smells a good bit like Waxoyl Professional 120-4... which makes sense as they are largely composed of the same wax and solvent.
Waxoyl Professional has also worked to get the best product delivery system, which we now refer to as the "professional application tools", because the product only works if you get it in the places where rust starts. To my knowledge Finnigans is still selling a hand pressurized pot, much like pesticide sprayers. Waxoyl Professional has the high pressured tools to fog the cavities and get the 120-4 in all the tight places which makes all the difference.
Thats what I have been told anyways... I don't have much experience with the Finnigan's, but l know it is much cheaper. Unfortunately due to the nature of the job, a cheap solution could end up being a costly mistake! You wont know the difference until it is too late and your chassis and or body panels have rotted from the inside out and need to be replaced.
Hope that helps!
~Calef LetorneyComment
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Calef:
Thanks for the response. IIRC your product is not that different in cost from what I used to pay for the old Finnegan's stuff.
I bought a couple of applicator hoses / wands from you guys at the British Invasion a few years ago and plan to use them this summer. I have adapted them to fit my applicator - hopefully they will work.
Does the hardwax need to be thinned before application? If so, with what?
What psi do you suggest for best application?Comment
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From the FAQs page...
Hardwax
• Apply AFTER applying Waxoyl Professional 120-4
• Properly prepare the surface before application. Watch the movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEVOtUjUytM
• Optimal product temperature for application is 70º F. Do not apply product at less than 59 F. Optimal ambient temperatures for application are between 41 F and 104 F. Tins and aerosols can be heated in a bucket of hot water.
• Mix well by shaking 5-liter tins and Aerosol cans. 58 Liter drums can be mixed, by blowing air using the HRS Gun and the long wand.
• If the product is not easy to shake and does not pour smoothly into the guns it is not warm enough! Warm before pouring into the gun.
• When using the HW-98 gun, apply using approximately 48 PSI. Pressure can be adjusted slightly to compensate for the products viscosity which is determined by temperature, i.e. if the Hardwax is hot you may find it is wise to slightly turn the pressure down for material economy. When using the HW 98 gun to apply take special care not to greatly exceed recommended pressure as it could damage the equipment. When using the HRS gun and the K-2 wand the air pressure can be between 70- 100 PSI.
• Recommended areas for application on passenger vehicle: All underbody surfaces except exhaust and heat shields, drive train and fuel tank (as increased insolation could encourage condensation inside tank).
• Remove over-spray with white spirits, Waxoyl Professional120-4, or vegetable oil.
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This means that you normally start the complete Waxoyl application using 120-4 from the front of the Land Rover working back through interior body parts, bonnet, inside doors, etc first - parts and locations that are not as subject to environmental conditions. Then, you apply hardwax to the underside, chassis and parts exposed to harsher environmental conditions.Comment
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