Rear drive shaft removal

[bmohan55]

So i thought I'd finally replace my leaky rear transfer case seal, first step is to remove the drive shaft and that's where I'm stuck! Is it a 14 mm bolt? The diff side seems to be but I can't get a good grip on the side by the hand brake, my socket won't fit and my wrench can't break it loose w/o fear of rounding off the nuts. Am I missing something? Right now I have the nuts soaking in penatrating oil while I soak myself with beer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[scott]

beer is best. just let 'em soak, but they shouldn't be metric

[masonater]

I used vise grips to hold onto the nut and a wrench to turn the bolt. Not easy but mine had been soaking for a couple days in PB blaster.

[SafeAirOne]

They're not metric bolts--at least not on my 73 SIII. They're nuts and they're either a 1/2" or 9/16"--can't remember which.

If memory serves, you should be able to get the appropriate socket squarely on the upper prop shaft nuts on the transfer side. Once these are out, chock the front wheels, then jack up one rear wheel so the prop shaft can be rotated with the transfer case in neutral (or just remove the prop shaft from the rear differential) then rotate the shaft so that the remaining nuts are on top and remove them.

[bmohan55]

Thanks, I was focused on the bottom nuts, never thought that I would get a better angle working on the top ones! I'm surprised they are metric also but the ones an the rear prop by the diff certainly are 14mm. Now that I think about it the front ones were also metric...P.O. switch out? More PB Blaster on them this morning and I'll try again tonight.

Thanks again

[greasyhandsagain]

The bolts are 9/16". It is NOT a fun job to do if you have problems. I had problems........

Its a lot easier to do taking the diff end off first, and then propping it up on a block, or wiring it up, to get it out of your way. If you can get a high quality socket, like a craftsman....and a bench grinder, you can grind away some of the metal to taper it from front to back, that gives you more clearance. Also, I had the problem of the bolt heads ROUNDING off and not being held against the round metal thingy inside the handbrake. They just spun. Once the handbrake drum was removed, and slid off, it was possible to get in there and hold them tight.

Id suggest that you buy a genuine parts set of replacement bolts and nuts, and do the job right when you put it back together.

[greenmeanie]

The bolts are 9/16". It is NOT a fun job to do if you have problems.

Just to clarify, the bolts are 3/8-24UNF. Per industry standards they have a 9/16 (.551") hex head which is the imperial equivalent to 14mm (.562")

If you are having trouble shifting them and are worried about rounding then the above tricks using a 6 sided socket instead of a 12 sided makes a huge difference.

[bmohan55]

thanks for the additional info, I haven't had time to craw back under it yet but I have been spraying it with "Nutcracker" each day. I'll use my 9/16 - 6 sided socket, thanks for that clairification.

"Greasey", are you saying that I can take the handbrake drum off before removing the driveshaft? I already have those 6 bolts off and tried pulling it off but figured that the driveshaft was also holding it in place so didn't really give it too much effort.

I've already planned to replace all the fittings with stock here from work, one of the perks of having a full machine shop!

[scott]

... can take the handbrake drum off before removing the driveshaft? ...

yep, when changing shoes on the tranny brake you do not have to remove the prop shaft. you should be able to disconnect the drum and slide it down the shaft

[bmohan55]

great news, thanks, should make accessing the prop bolts easier.