Adding Tailgate hardware ?

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  • mrdoiron
    4th Gear
    • Dec 2009
    • 446

    Adding Tailgate hardware ?

    I recently removed the hardtop cap / single door from my 88, and got a new tailgate to go with a soft top, and also got the associated hardware corner plates to connect to the truck bed the Antiluce catch - which in turn latches to the eye on the tailgate when closed...

    Problem I have is that the current corner plates on the truck (from when it was a hardtop with a single large door instead of a tailgate) are tacked to the bed with larger style galvanized pop rivots, AND, the existing corner plates are actually overlapped on the top by the beds rear top corner galvanized capping.
    So I am trying to understand the best way to remove the rivots/top corner cap & the existing corner brackets, THEN the best method/tools required to rivot back similar rivots for the newer corner cap (now with antiluce catch) and then the top corner cap back...

    Anyone have some advice who may have done this ?

    (enclosed pic for reference).

    appreciated,
    mike
    Last edited by mrdoiron; 12-25-2010, 04:37 PM.
    ---------------------------
    1961 Ser IIa Hybrid Defender
    1969 Ser IIa Bugeye
    1980 Ser III Lightweight 24V RHD- sold
    1988 LR90 turbo diesel RHD - currently frame off rebuild in progress
    1998 Disco - ex wife :-(
    2000 Disco - RIP , end over end 2.5 times
    2010 RR Sport Supercharged


    http://mikerovers.shutterfly.com/
  • Jim-ME
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1379

    #2
    When I did my tub swap I replaced the top rear corners with new ones so I had them off anyway. I think you can just carefully drill out the rivets that hold the plate on and then slide the new plate under from the bottom and in. If that doesn't appear to work you will need to take off the corner brackets. I wasn't willing to buy the tools to replace the hammer rivets so I bought sealed Rover pop rivets to put the parts back on. You can buy hammer rivets if you want to keep it looking original. If you search the old posts there is a wealth of information on how to do them.
    Jim

    Comment

    • mrdoiron
      4th Gear
      • Dec 2009
      • 446

      #3
      great info, thanks alot - I had wondered if I could slide it under the top cap or not... and I'll search for info on the 'hammer rivots' now.

      mike
      ---------------------------
      1961 Ser IIa Hybrid Defender
      1969 Ser IIa Bugeye
      1980 Ser III Lightweight 24V RHD- sold
      1988 LR90 turbo diesel RHD - currently frame off rebuild in progress
      1998 Disco - ex wife :-(
      2000 Disco - RIP , end over end 2.5 times
      2010 RR Sport Supercharged


      http://mikerovers.shutterfly.com/

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        Basic removal of pop rivets:



        Solid Rivets:

        1) File a flat area on the center of the round rivet head

        2) Using a center punch, make an indentation in the flat spot exactly in the center of the rivet head.

        3) Use a drill one size smaller than the rivet shank to drill through the rivet head, being careful not to go too deep, causing the rivet to spin, tearing the metal.

        4) Insert a drift punch diagonally in the drill hole and knock off the rivet head.

        5) Use a pin punch one size smaller than the rivet shank to drive out the shank.


        Be
        with the drill and cause a tear
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • TedW
          5th Gear
          • Feb 2007
          • 887

          #5
          Do your antiluce catches unscrew from their backing plates?

          When I put my tailgate on I bought just the antiluce catches from our hosts. Then I marked my existing plates where the center of the eye hole was and drilled. I then attached the antiluce catches with big honkin' nuts and washers.

          Easier than replacing the whole plate (if you can).

          Comment

          • crankin
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2008
            • 696

            #6
            Originally posted by TedW
            Do your antiluce catches unscrew from their backing plates?

            When I put my tailgate on I bought just the antiluce catches from our hosts. Then I marked my existing plates where the center of the eye hole was and drilled. I then attached the antiluce catches with big honkin' nuts and washers.

            Easier than replacing the whole plate (if you can).
            I second that. I drilled my hole a little bigger than the catches bolt to allow for some movement. This way I could adjust and line up with the eyelets dead center.


            Birmabright Brotherhood

            Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


            Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

            Comment

            • scott
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1226

              #7
              crankin/ted, you're supposed to wait 'til he's drilled out all those rivets befor suggesting...
              '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
              '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
              '76 Spitfire 1500
              '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

              Comment

              • 109 Pretender
                1st Gear
                • Oct 2008
                • 110

                #8
                replacing rivets

                To the OP:
                Correct me if I'm wrong - but it looks like you have a series 3?? If so, one of the many changes made between series 2 and 3 Rovers is the wholesale replacement of the solid rivets w/blind rivets because it was easier and less costly. I'm pretty sure what you have now is the original setup using the blind rivets AND the ones in question are also blind rivets on series 2 vehicles because there is no way to back up a solid rivet along the inside of the top rail cap. The body has a u shaped channel spot welded in that area for strength.
                The previously mentioned solution to drill out and slide orig. bracket down and out should work fine - then get some blind rivets w/solid bottoms from our Hosts and you'll be set!

                Cheers and enjoy that new tailgate!

                Comment

                • 109 Pretender
                  1st Gear
                  • Oct 2008
                  • 110

                  #9
                  replacing rivets

                  Forgot to mention that the solid rivets you have in the plate are orig. and can easily be replaced w/same because there's room to back them up when setting them.

                  Good luck

                  Comment

                  • SafeAirOne
                    Overdrive
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 3435

                    #10
                    Originally posted by 109 Pretender
                    ...one of the many changes made between series 2 and 3 Rovers is the wholesale replacement of the solid rivets w/blind rivets because it was easier and less costly.

                    Talk about a rivet counter! I had to go out and check my '73. Sure enough:

                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                    Comment

                    • JackIIA
                      5th Gear
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 498

                      #11
                      That's a good little demo. Thanks for the illustrations/video.
                      1970 88 IIA

                      Comment

                      • mrdoiron
                        4th Gear
                        • Dec 2009
                        • 446

                        #12
                        great idea ! having the replacement part i didn't even think of that....

                        mike
                        ---------------------------
                        1961 Ser IIa Hybrid Defender
                        1969 Ser IIa Bugeye
                        1980 Ser III Lightweight 24V RHD- sold
                        1988 LR90 turbo diesel RHD - currently frame off rebuild in progress
                        1998 Disco - ex wife :-(
                        2000 Disco - RIP , end over end 2.5 times
                        2010 RR Sport Supercharged


                        http://mikerovers.shutterfly.com/

                        Comment

                        • mrdoiron
                          4th Gear
                          • Dec 2009
                          • 446

                          #13
                          109 Pretender - so not sure why you think it is a series 3... it is actually a 69bugeye, albeit I don't have the history prior to my work on it...... what is it you feel is ser3 ?

                          appreciated
                          ---------------------------
                          1961 Ser IIa Hybrid Defender
                          1969 Ser IIa Bugeye
                          1980 Ser III Lightweight 24V RHD- sold
                          1988 LR90 turbo diesel RHD - currently frame off rebuild in progress
                          1998 Disco - ex wife :-(
                          2000 Disco - RIP , end over end 2.5 times
                          2010 RR Sport Supercharged


                          http://mikerovers.shutterfly.com/

                          Comment

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