Sleeved frame outrigger repair

[Wander]

When I pulled my petrol tank out last night I noticed the tank forward support rail was sleeved with another box section of steel to repair rust damage. The repair looks good (should have taken a picture) but I saw that not all of the rust was cut away when the new section was placed inside the old. Should I worry about this old section and cut it away while I have the tank out or let it be as I have a galvy frame on my long term list that I plan to get in about 2-3 years?

The rest of the frame looked very good.

[greenmeanie]

Silly question but....

"The rest of the frame looked very good." "I have a galvy frame on my long term list that I plan to get in about 2-3 years?"

I know I'm cheap but I have to ask why? Fix the outrigger properly and run the truck. Unless you expect your chassis to go from very good to rotten in 2-3 years what is the point of the galvy chassis?

[Wander]

Good question-the repair looks good but I think I am going to cut out the outer section that still has some rust.

The frame looks good-for a series frame-so not perfect by any means and I have no illusion that there is not some rust building that will make itself apparent in the furture. The galvy frame may wait a longer period since I'm in a area that is pretty low on the rust scale but I plan to keep this IIa a long, long time so I'm thinking long term and swapping to a galvy frame just seems to be a natural outcome from what I've read.

[greenmeanie]

Galvy frames are really for those who live in the rust belt. In those locations a galvy chassis is the natural outcome. For the rest of us they are rather expensive overkill as basic maintenance to clean and kill the rust keeps a normal chassis going for many, many years. Your truck is, after all, going on 40 years old with a very good chassis. If you do a search here and you'll find many ways from the cheap to the professional to make your chassis last a long, long time.

If you think you need to switch to a galvy frame then I presume you are going to strip, dip and galvy the bulkhead, radiator panel and sundry other pieces that make up a Rover to extend their life too? If you plan on doing that and have a galvanizer close to you then it might be better to just clean and dip the one you've got as it will be a lot cheaper. That would be my path if you do a proper fix on your truck now and take steps to protect it.

Just trying to add a little perspective.

Your money and your truck so feel free to ignore me.

[Wander]

I appreciate the advise and I hope you're right as it will save me a bundle.

I guess I am influenced by those not fortunate enought to live areas not prone to excessive rust. In addition to a good looking frame the bulkhead and facia are in better shape so maybe I can avoid the whole mess. The rear cross member was replaced with a shop build substitute the is basically angle iron and the middle section of the old X member complete with the PTO hole. At first I thought it was an ex MOD truck or at least X member but further inspection revealed it was just someone's handy work. I don't think the angle iron was the best choice so I may get a correct rear X member and sleeve that into the frame which will allow me to put lifting points/steps back on and overall look better. That may be the extent of it which would be excellent.

[Broadstone]

Don't chase rust!! you know the rear x-member had been replaced with something non original. Now you see this previous repair needing work since dropping the tank. I find it hard to believe the front horns are original or un-patched. Your time and or the time of a welder is worth money and time. Go galvy and never worry again I say!

[Wander]

I guess I'll have to see how things are when the time comes to make this decision.

Back to the question, how far should I go with the outrigger? How much overlap should I leave of the original section and the sleeved section?

[superpowerdave]

I'm with the above ... if there has already been repairs, chances are high that there is unseen rust just waiting to show itself.

I know I'm on the wrong side of the country, but when I was looking at repairing my frame I found it a cheaper cost to have a frame built from thicker steel to factory specs over a galvy frame and then having it shipped.

May be worth a trip to the fab shop, unless you're in an area prone to rust ... I'm not, and my frame will be coated in POR-15 to ensure the frame outlasts me.

[greenmeanie]

As Wander is talking about a repair I presume he can weld or has someone who can do so. To answer the original question our hosts have a replacement tank outrigger for $50. Measure the position of the original, cut it off and weld in a new one. Job done in a couple of hours, minimal hassle and you know its good.

When it comes to the chassis I say he should inspect what he's got before rushing out and spending his money. If I was looking at his truck I would cut away the old cross member and take a good look up the chassis legs for corrosion. I would also cut off the front caps from the frame horns and look in from that direction. I like to remove the crush plates for the bumper mounts and sleeve the bolt holes instead while I'm in there.. Go over the rest of it with a hammer listening for dead spots or even cut a hole in any cross member that you cannot inspect internally. If you can weld, closing any hole is a simple job.

A new galvy replacement from our hosts is $2700 plus substantial truck freight, and very nice too, while a replacement rear cross member is $212. For about 1/10th of the cost he could have a solid chassis that just needs rust protection in a location that he admits is fairly benign. If the chassis is solid then I would repair rather than replace but I am cheap. $2500+ buys a lot of my time with my welder.

[Winston-Rover]

I found it a cheaper cost to have a frame built from thicker steel to factory specs over a galvy frame and then having it shipped.

I'd like to hear more about the frame you had fabricated. let's see some photos of it.

[Wander]

GM pretty has it, and I'm hoping I don't find any bad spots-haven't yet.

The sleeved repair was actuallt done by the PO-I was just kind of surprised to see it sleeved into the old OR which still has a bad spot on the side,facing the tank. I think I'll cut that off now while it's easy to get too and check on the rest of the welds in this OR repair.

The shop cleaning/sealing my tank found a leak so they are sealing it inside and out, should be ready next week. The guy at the shop was pretty suprised when I came in holding the tank, I guess "normal" people don't pull there own tanks?

[yorker]

Like GM says - perform a through examination of your frame- good is good, don't be in a hurry to replace it. If you live south of the Mason Dixon you probably have better things to spend your $ on. If a frame can be saved down there- why not preserve it?

I've seen too many good frames that people cut up and scrapped over the years because they felt that a galvanized chassis was de rigueur for a Series Land Rover resto today. At least 5 in the recent past that could have been fixed with some simple attention but the owners cut them up for scrap.



be glad you don't live in NY:

[Wander]

Good lord, what's holding the thing together

Thanks Yorker..I'll have nightmares now

[greenmeanie]

Meh, a bit of a wire brushing and a coat of Por15 and that will last for years.

[yorker]

Good lord, what's holding the thing together

Thanks Yorker..I'll have nightmares now

I thought it was obvious!!! Rust!

That isn't the worst I have seen either. On the 1965 88" I bought at the same time there were sections where the only metal left was at the corners where the sheet metal for the frame had been welded together- the welds remained but the sheet metal was completely gone...

Then there was a parts truck I bought from a kid in PA- the guy who had sold it to him had filled the gaping holes in the chassis with Great Stuff spray foam, cut it to size and skimmed it with Bondo- then painted the whole thing and gotten it muddy so it LOOKED as though the chassis was intact...