Series III Bulkhead Without Heat Distribution Box

[amcordo]

Rivet counters - this post is not for you. I'm getting the bulkhead ready to be galvanized.

Any opinions on permenently removing the distribution boxes? Both the lower one with the ankle burning louvres and the upper one with the windscreen vents attached.

Both of them are in poor condition on my bulkhead. While I was removing them I started to like the look of the bulkhead interior without them. It feels like it'll open up some serious space on the interior where my knees are. It'll also make room for me to install a mojave heater on the passenger side. What do you folks think? Am I crazy? Should I fix them up and galvy them?

I'll obviously have to figure out a place to put gauges and a way to make the front vent openers work without these parts.



UPDATE: I am looking for two parts that will help me:
I need the brackets from a series II or IIa that hold this to the bulkhead. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...er-ii-iia.aspx
I know they're not available anymore, and I could fab something up myself but it sure would be nice if someone had two old rusty ones laying around that I could strip and galvanize along with the rest of my stuff.

[SafeAirOne]

What would you attach the instrument panel to?

[amcordo]

What would you attach the instrument panel to?

Not sure yet. Maybe fab up my own mount for the metal and plastic instrument panel mounts? Lots of little details like this.

[greenmeanie]

UPDATE: I am looking for two parts that will help me:
I need the brackets from a series II or IIa that hold this to the bulkhead. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...er-ii-iia.aspx
I know they're not available anymore, and I could fab something up myself but it sure would be nice if someone had two old rusty ones laying around that I could strip and galvanize along with the rest of my stuff.

There are no bracket to mount that. The upper mount is a tab welded to the bulkhead which is essentially a flat piece of steel with a hole in it. The lower mount screws into the bulkhead shelf on the SIIA bulkhead. It shares a common fastener with one of the instrument panel face plates.

[KevinNY]

I know of at least one instance where someone converted a new D90 bulkhead to a IIA dash so it can be done, not sure how he sourced it or if he fabbed it all himself.

[ignotus]

Can't be specific about your question but just make sure all the aluminium bits are off as they will melt in the zinc bath.

[Boston]

I know of at least one instance where someone converted a new D90 bulkhead to a IIA dash so it can be done, not sure how he sourced it or if he fabbed it all himself.

Heres an idea on how it could be done.

http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/bulkhead.htm

[siiirhd88]

I have a Defender bulkhead on my SIII 88. I eliminated the lower padded SIII dash with the rusty heater plenum, and attached a steel SIIA instrument panel section (cut from a very rusty bulkhead) to the Defender bulkhead using the same screw locations that secured the lower padded dash. It is not in the exact same location as compared to a SIIA bulkhead, so the SIIA vent handles would not function. I ended up using the upper SIII padded dash with its vent handles, which required notches to be cut in the upper edge of the SIIA instrument panel section for clearance. Use of the SIII upper padded dash section allowed use of the normal SIII instrument panel, with additional instruments and switches in the steel SIIA section.

I built a small steel plenum where the heater air discharge enters the interior and attached black ABS plastic drain pipe to make a distribution box. I installed 'T's for the defroster hoses and 90s for the interior outlets. If I wanted a strong defrost, I just stuck a rubber expansion plug in one or both 90s to divert all of the air to the defrost. Ugly, but functional.

The 88 has been off the road for a few years due to a multiple rollover and needs a complete rebuild. When I have the bulklhead off to replace the damaged Defender bulkhead doorposts I think I will just weld a SIIA instrument panel section in the correct place and eliminate all of the SIII bits. This will also require a different mount for the SIIA windscreen clamps and welding on SIIA windscreen pivots. I will also use a modified for RHD SIIA heater distribution box.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[amcordo]

This sounds cool.


When you get down to it what I really want is just to remove the top part specifically. I like the idea of the front vent openings blowing right into the cabin, rather than being routed up by the box.

I have a Defender bulkhead on my SIII 88. I eliminated the lower padded SIII dash with the rusty heater plenum, and attached a steel SIIA instrument panel section (cut from a very rusty bulkhead) to the Defender bulkhead using the same screw locations that secured the lower padded dash. It is not in the exact same location as compared to a SIIA bulkhead, so the SIIA vent handles would not function. I ended up using the upper SIII padded dash with its vent handles, which required notches to be cut in the upper edge of the SIIA instrument panel section for clearance. Use of the SIII upper padded dash section allowed use of the normal SIII instrument panel, with additional instruments and switches in the steel SIIA section.

I built a small steel plenum where the heater air discharge enters the interior and attached black ABS plastic drain pipe to make a distribution box. I installed 'T's for the defroster hoses and 90s for the interior outlets. If I wanted a strong defrost, I just stuck a rubber expansion plug in one or both 90s to divert all of the air to the defrost. Ugly, but functional.

The 88 has been off the road for a few years due to a multiple rollover and needs a complete rebuild. When I have the bulklhead off to replace the damaged Defender bulkhead doorposts I think I will just weld a SIIA instrument panel section in the correct place and eliminate all of the SIII bits. This will also require a different mount for the SIIA windscreen clamps and welding on SIIA windscreen pivots. I will also use a modified for RHD SIIA heater distribution box.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[Jim-ME]

It would seem to me that if you picked up a Series 2a bulkhead that the foot boxes and lower door posts were shot but the top half was sound you could graft the two together. You would need the center gauge panel and probably would want to pick up an earlier steering column with wheel with the bulk head bracketry. I'd offer up mine but it has been spoken for and heaven only know when I'll have the funds to swap in the "new" one. I'm beginning to believe that anything can be done to a Land Rover if you have the skills. Good luck with your quest.
Jim

[amcordo]

Does anyone know what size bolt (length, diameter, and thread) is used to attach the door hinges to the bulkhead? I need to make sure I get the right size... thanks!

[Broadstone]

You would need the original style with tapered head to recess correctly into the hinges since I believe it is for series III. I know the threads are the same as what I have been tapping with 5/16 NF24.

[amcordo]

You would need the original style with tapered head to recess correctly into the hinges since I believe it is for series III. I know the threads are the same as what I have been tapping with 5/16 NF24.

Thanks Broadstone - exactly what I needed to know! I've got defender hinges on the S3.

[LH Drive]

Wondering what you decided to do with the lower S3 dash. I too am getting rid of the S3 dash and converting to a 64 2A metal dash. Do you have any pitures of what you are working on? Did you have to swap out the steering wheel?

[amcordo]

Hi! I removed both the lower and upper dash. They were just in plain terrible condition. Lots of rust rot.

I did not have to swap out the wheel; the column and support are independent of the lower dash (or at least it was on my car). The only photo I have is on the link below. Since then I've put the car back together. I haven't yet decided on a permenent mount for the gauges; I'm leaning towards attaching them to the roof where it meets the windshield since I've decided to keep that on. As to the jagged metal lip that's hidden under the upper dash I've got a stainless steel angle metal piece that is sixty some inches long by 1.5 inches that is going to cover that nicely and provide a handle for getting in and out. For the wind screens in the front I fabricate a mount for the open and close lever.

I love all the extra space that's afforded by taking out that top and bottom piece. Plus it keeps my passenger nice and warm since the heater vent hits them square between the legs.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=45195522&l=5d7312435d&id=12302234

Wondering what you decided to do with the lower S3 dash. I too am getting rid of the S3 dash and converting to a 64 2A metal dash. Do you have any pitures of what you are working on? Did you have to swap out the steering wheel?