crank shaft pulley 200 Tdi

[CliftonRover]

I am changing the timing belt on my 200 Tdi and I have to remove the front pulley on the crankshaft. The nut that holds the pulley on is apparently right hand thread and I have been trying for two days to get it off. I have a impact driver which will apparently put 500 ftlbs of torque to the nut and that will not get it off. I also have a massive 36" pipe wrench and a breaker bar that I have tried. Any one have any suggestions. I have been using PB blaster ever couple of hours too. I also tried heating a little with a cutting torch it and then using the driver or the breaker bar.

[daveb]

I don't think it is RH thread, they are usually regular thread. try bracing a big breaker bar agains the frame and then hit the starter. that's what I do, works every time.

I am changing the timing belt on my 200 Tdi and I have to remove the front pulley on the crankshaft. The nut that holds the pulley on is apparently right hand thread and I have been trying for two days to get it off. I have a impact driver which will apparently put 500 ftlbs of torque to the nut and that will not get it off. I also have a massive 36" pipe wrench and a breaker bar that I have tried. Any one have any suggestions. I have been using PB blaster ever couple of hours too. I also tried heating a little with a cutting torch it and then using the driver or the breaker bar.

[J!m]

On the 300 Tdi, it is right-hand thread, and I had to heat mine cherry-red with oxy-acetylene and then use a 24" breaker bar on it (actually, I jumped on it with my feet) and it broke free. I wasted an hour with several other "methods" before resorting to the big gas-wrench. If it's not red-hot, it doesn't come off (and it's still not easy at all).

I seriously doubt the starter will have enough torque for the Tdi bolt, and you risk damage to an expensive starter. I think that trick might work with a Series however, since that is a shorter threaded section, coarser thread and a lot less torque than the Tdi bolt has.

Here's the problem: factory torque spec indicates about 44 foot pounds, (not all that bad, and don't quote me on that torque, check your manual) AND THEN rotating the bolt 90 degrees tighter. I estimate this is several hundred foot pounds static torque. I went about 45 degrees past torque spec as that was all I could put on it... The threaded section is about 2.5 inches long, and it is a 20-24 TPI pitch or so.

Good luck!

[daveb]

wait a minute. RH thread is righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, like most things.

LH thread is opposite most threaded assemblies. Which is it? Starter will only undo RH threads.

Series crank dog is supposed to be either 100ft/lbs or 200 ft/lbs depending on which manual you read. doesn't really matter as it has a lock tab to keep it in. thread is pretty fine in those too.

pontiac motors used in the scotty/rob davis conversions get like 160 ft/lbs and loctite and come out pretty easy using the starter.

MIGHT work? I've DONE it, luv. As have many others. Damage might occur if you are dim and sit there holding the key and nothing is happening. Wait for the smoke then you know your starter is fully cooked.

IOW, if it doesn't move don't sit there and wait for it. It will go instantly if it goes.

Try it, you'll like it! Don't be stupid about it and you won't hurt anything.

BTW, what does cherrying the crank nose do to the heat treating...

On the 300 Tdi, it is right-hand thread...snip...I wasted an hour with several other "methods" before resorting to the big gas-wrench. If it's not red-hot, it doesn't come off (and it's still not easy at all).

I seriously doubt the starter will have enough torque for the Tdi bolt, and you risk damage to an expensive starter. I think that trick might work with a Series however,

[J!m]

Cherry-ing the nose anneals the bolt (unless you quench it, of course).

Feeling bad about it? replace the bolt with every timing kit. I just did 5000 miles to the arctic circle and back with my "compromised" bolt... Any you know what? I didn't loose a bit of sleep over it.

I suppose the shear strength IS a bit lower now. The thing is, that bolt is not in shear load (other than tightening it) so if it survives installation, I say , not .

Do what you like. Land Rover makes (made?) a tool to hold the pulley while you wrench on the bolt, but even if you follow the instructions to the letter (I don't remove the radiator to do the job myself) you still have no room to work.

And, NOT trying your bolt removal method I have been through three starters in less years on my truck (genuine ones from our hosts, not cheap-o ones either). These are expensive. I will not compromise the starter for a bolt. Seems silly to me.

I think a 3/4 inch drive impact might have a chance if the proper holding tool is used. I was winding up the entire drive line trying to break that bolt free myself jumping on a 24" breaker bar, and got worried there as the torque I applied (I estimate at 800-1000 ft/lb per jump) became a lot more than the engine can produce at peak. Broken gear anyone??? I am a bit surprised I didn't break the breaker bar or socket. Love that Snap-On goodness!

[daveb]

That's not the only winding up going on. You were jumping on the breaker bar but you didn't have the radiator out? Kind of hard to imagine but maybe I need to see it.

Oh well, cherry away people, then you will be able to drive at least 5000 miles.

I am stepping out of this since I don't own a Tdi. I'll get back to you when mine arrives as I'll need to do the same job. Too bad it won't be in a vehicle so I won't be doing the starter trick.

back to discussing Series trucks on the series forum...

Do what you like....

I was winding up the entire drive line trying to break that bolt free myself

[CliftonRover]

I got the bolt out, I broke a few half inch drive breaker bars so I went and bout a 3/4" drive one, and then I made a plate that bolts on to the front pulley and has an arm that sits under the frame rail to keep the pulley from turning. Then I put a big pipe on the end of the new breaker and got it off. the factor torque spec is 265nm. thats a lot, don't try uning the starter to kick the thing loose, the Tdi snapped a 1/2" drive extension like nothing.

[daveb]

alright!

good work. so, just to clarify, you tried the starter method and it broke a 1/2" drive extension?

I'm guessing if that is the case that it was not an impact drive extension.

FWIW I always us a 3/4" drive for the series LR 2.25 crank bolt "starter method".

anyway, glad to hear you got the bolt out. You didn't have to heat it?

rgrds
dave

I got the bolt out, I broke a few half inch drive breaker bars so I went and bout a 3/4" drive one, and then I made a plate that bolts on to the front pulley and has an arm that sits under the frame rail to keep the pulley from turning. Then I put a big pipe on the end of the new breaker and got it off. the factor torque spec is 265nm. thats a lot, don't try uning the starter to kick the thing loose, the Tdi snapped a 1/2" drive extension like nothing.

[CliftonRover]

I tried heating it but I wasn't sure where front oil seals on the crank shaft were or anything else that doesn't like that much heat so I stopped. by the way the motor is in a 109, so this is a series question, the 200 Tdi is awsome and easy to fit into any series truck. I am getting 30mpg and a 70mph crusing speed. current tank range 600miles, and I have a 30" X 36" X 8" custom aluminum tank to put in the back for my cross country drive this summer.