Clutch slave

[bullstanky]

There has been a slick of what looks like brake fluid on the side of my transmission and yesterday when I stepped on the clutch, it went all of the way to the floor. And, the master cylinder reservoir was empty-- time for a new slave cylinder right? Any suggestions on removing the old one and fitting the new one?

[SafeAirOne]

Well, there are essentially only 3 components in the clutch hydraulic system... The master cylinder, the lines (hard and flex), and the slave cylinder. put some more fluid in there, open the bleeder on the slave till fluid comes out (it almost self-bleeds), dry everything off and have an assistant pump the clutch. Look to see where the clutch juice is coming out.

[crankin]

It might be simpler than that. I am sure that you have thought to check all of the following things, but because I like to think about these things, I’ll run through the list of what might be the problems.

First make sure that your bleeder valve on the slave clutch cylinder is tight and in good shape (i.e. not broke off). This is under the truck near the bell housing…just follow the clutch line to find it.

Second, make sure that all the connectors on the clutch lines are tight. There are only two...One connector on the master and one on the slave.

Third, makes sure that the clutch line does not have a hole or break in it.

Next, Let’s check to see if the seals on the master cylinder are good or bad. An easy way to check this is to buy a $7 self bleeder kit and hook it up to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder (or clear fish pump tubing and a mason jar will work). Pour some DOT 3, 4, or 5 (depending on what you run)…if it comes out black as coal…your seals are probably in bad shape on the master cylinder (MC) and you need to replace it. If the seals are extremely bad, and causing you to lose fluid, you would see fluid dripping from your bulkhead and maybe even see it running down the clutch pedal into the cab.

Now, if we can keep fluid in the reservoir we can trouble shoot even more…

If it is squirting from the bleeder valve with every pump and it comes out clear, this tells us that the MC is good. Now we can eliminate the slave cylinder as the problem. To do this, remove the two bolts on the slave cylinder and stick a long screw driver inside the hole on the slave cylinder (not the hole where you just removed the slave cylinder)…fill the reservoir with your preferred DOT and have a buddy step on the clutch. If you fill something push the screw driver, than your slave is fine. If nothing happens, the slave is bad.

To remove the slave…just undo the two bolts and unscrew the line. To refit, slide slave cylinder back, screw in bolts and reattach line.

[Jim-ME]

This could be another case for our host carrying the braided SS brake and clutch lines.
Jim

[solihull109]

This could be another case for our host carrying the braided SS brake and clutch lines.
Jim

Jim, the hard lines are easy to reproduce in stainless. Want one?

[Jim-ME]

Actually what I meant to say was braided SS flex lines for the front wheels, to the rear axle and to the clutch slave. If you can do that we'll talk.
Jim

[TedW]

For some reason RN sells stainless brake flex hoses for all trucks except for Series, so I had to get 'em elsewhere.

My Goodridge clutch hose came from the UK - no one I could find sells it here.

[JackIIA]

For some reason RN sells stainless brake flex hoses for all trucks except for Series, so I had to get 'em elsewhere.

My Goodridge clutch hose came from the UK - no one I could find sells it here.

Looks like that works out to $117 before visa international transaction fee and customs.

What is the overriding benefit to the stainless flex? Just allowing abit more security for heavy offroading and related punishment? Or is it simply that the stuff will effectively never age? I'd think they're still be some rubberized material buried in there.

[bullstanky]

Probably the bleed screw or seals, or both. But I figure I can replace both the 30+ year old master and slave for around $100 and know that I've got a solid clutch--i.e. I don't want to be out on the trail when the reservoir hits empty. So why not bite the bullet and just fix it right

[bullstanky]

Probably the bleed screw or seals, or both. But I figure I can replace both the 30+ year old master and slave for around $100 and know that I've got a solid clutch--i.e. I don't want to be out on the trail when the reservoir hits empty. So why not bite the bullet and just fix it right

Maybe I jumped the gun a little bit--turns out I've already got the slave rebuild kit-and with another for the master and a new cap, I should be good to go.