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I replaced my starter on a 72 series III 88" after having some starting problems (after replacing all wiring and the solenoid) and was happy to report the motor started right up when finished. I've been driving it regularly now for about 6 weeks ( 2 to 3 times per week), but yesterday I was starnded in a parking lot at home depot as it would'nt start once gain. I get a stong start but the motor will not catch. After about 20 tries over 30 minutes, it finally caught and I was able to get home, but I'm now reluctant to take her out again until I can find out the cause. I suspect that the startmotor is not seated completely against the frame and There is 1-2mm gap between the back of the starter where it is bolted to the frame. Could this be the issue? Any help would be appreciated.
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Are you saying that you are attempting to start the (gasoline) engine but the starter motor (electric) is not "catching"? Or are you saying that the motor is working properly, spinning the engine, but the engine itself won't start up?
The starter mounting flange should be mated flush against the flywheel housing.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door). -
When I turn the key the starter motor cranks, and the engine begins to turn but does not start or "catch" and stay started.Comment
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so, yes the starter motor seems to be working but the engine will not start. I guess I['m assuming its the starter not engaing the engine properly, or enough to kepp it going. But now that you phrase it that way, could it be a clogged fuel line issue if the engine fails to stay running?Comment
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If the electric starter is spinning the Rover's engine over normally and the engine won't start, your starter is fine--er...except that it should mate flat against the flywheel housing that it's mounted to. Just adjust it so that it does.
Your engine not starting with the starter spinning it sufficiently can be always be traced to one (or a combination) of 3 things, barring any major engine damage: 1) A problem with the combustion air supply, 2) a problem with the fuel supply or 3) a problem with the ignition source (spark). Use the process of elimination to troubleshoot your problem.
The easiest thing to eliminate is a bad supply of combustion air. Is your air filter assembly allowing sufficient air to through it? Is the rubber and cloth intake air hose delaminated on the inside, blocking off the air to the engine? (This happened to me when I bought a cheap aftermarket intake hose.) etc...
Do the same for the other two systems.
My first instinct would be to check for a clogged sediment screen on the bottom of the fuel supply tube in the fuel tank. A clogged screen allows you to drive for a while, until the restriction causes so much of a fuel defecit that the engine won't stay running. After a half hour or so, the suction in the fuel lines equalizes, allowing you to start up and drive again (for a while, at least).--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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Having a starting issue on a '66 88 IIa.
Generator light is on.
Head lamps and turn signals come on when the ignition is in the S and H positions
When starter is pushed i get a half attempt from the engine at starting then nothing.
Bad starter?
Bad battery?
Bad generator?Comment
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The charge light should be on till the engine fires up and the alternator starts putting out sufficient juice. Sounds like a dead battery to me.
Just re-read it...Do you have a generator or alternator? Shouldn't make too much difference, really...--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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I am no expert, so you get what you pay for
if it works with the battery jumper I would assume your generator pooped the bed, or you have a bad battery. I would pull the battery and take it to autozone or someone and have them do a free test to rule it out. If that comes back fine I'd look at changing the generator to an alternator and enjoy driving at night for once
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thanks mark. i'll look at the battery and then the gen.
duly noted. tell me the story about generator night driving restrictions...I am no expert, so you get what you pay for
if it works with the battery jumper I would assume your generator pooped the bed, or you have a bad battery. I would pull the battery and take it to autozone or someone and have them do a free test to rule it out. If that comes back fine I'd look at changing the generator to an alternator and enjoy driving at night for onceComment
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The generator doesnt produce enough juice (20amps?) to keep the battery charged when you drive for a while with lights on, windshield wipers going and your heater going. I found mine not keeping up just from the headlights. No more issues since I put in a 78 amp alternator. Look at LRFAQ.org and expeditionlandrover.info.Comment
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Thank you!Comment
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Wonder how Oldblue is making out in this thread....Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club presidentComment
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great question. haven't heard anything since may.
but this brings up a good point... i moderate a fixed gear bicycling forum, and we discourage starting new threads on topics that have been covered before. we recommend that members use older threads for redundant topics to reduce thread clutter.
as for etiquette around here, how do the mods feel about resurrecting older threads? good form? frowned upon?Comment
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