good luck with that, I spent many an hour looking for an electronic ign. for the 2.6... I decided to stick with what I had since it wasn't broken. If you do switch, I'll buy your distributor
good luck getting the 2.6 to run with a 4 cylinder distributor....
Originally posted by Cutter
good luck with that, I spent many an hour looking for an electronic ign. for the 2.6... I decided to stick with what I had since it wasn't broken. If you do switch, I'll buy your distributor
A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."
Does anybody make an electronic conversion kit for this dist? If not, do you think that there is a demand for one?
I'm not sure how much demand there really is, seems like most people yank the 2.6 and repower so there are fewer and fewer on the road. I was tempted but for now am getting mine rebuilt.
I put on a new head gasket and the truck was running great then it started sputtering and died. Would barely fire up and run rough. Then it wouldn't fire at all. I ordered a new cap, rotor and coil from TRL today. After that, all ignition parts have been changed. Properly gapped the points today. We'll see tomorrow.
I am still going to look for an electronic ignition. Will probably keep the original just for future restoration.
After it ran, did you recheck the head torque? Are the plugs wet or dry? If wet...water or gas?? If not wet, what then? Got gas?
I'd go with Kevins....chk that points wire. If it's grounded, you'll be there until it's not grounded, for sure. Most common mistake on this dizzy. Everyone does it once, many do it many times and even admit it. Get the metal washer in the wrong sequence and you ground it. Don't do that!!! It cooks you when you find out how simply your loyal steed can be disabled.. Crap design.
Good Luck.......Jeff
I will check the head bolts. Pulled the plugs they are dry. Are you refering to the wire form the low tension wire and the condensor wire? Do they get stacked on the points in a particular order?
"Install new points, condensor and LT lead post and wire. Make sure to assemble the condensor and LT leads to the points correctly. Both should touch the points spring, but be INSULATED FROM THE POST AND NUT, with the plastic sleeve attached to the points. I.e: the sleeve passes thru the tabs on the leads and acts as a washer on top of which the nut sits."
I took above quote from Van Isle Rovers article. Read it SLOWLY, and word for word. It's a perfect description of the process.
After you get it running, take a GOOD pic of the 'stacking order', and put it in your cubby with spare points/condenser. It may save your butt in the 'bush' sometime.
Somewhere in a forum I found a blow up of the 'stacking order' that was very graphic, and pic was great. Can't find it now...sorry. I do believe it's on this forum. It is not the article about 'bulletproof points', which is sorta good in and of itself.
Whenever you tear down a dizzy...pay CLOSE ATTENTION to how everything comes apart to the smallest detail. It will save you many hours of frustration if you don't have the manual there.
Buy a short (1') piece of the finest stranded wire you can find, prolly at a radio store, to make a 2" replacement (several) for the low tension wire that has to bend with the plate movement all the time. Carry that in your cubby too. Frequent cause (broken strands) of intermitting/bucking/snorting and failing motor. It's the WHITE wire in the dizzy photo.
Good Luck-Jeff
This is a pic of a 25D dizzy, and my remarks related to a 4 cyl petrol eng. I do realize you are dealing with a 2.6, and have assumed dizzy is basically the same. I have not ever seen a 2.6, but have owned loads of 'stovebolt 6' engines.
Ooooooohhhhhh!!!!! Now I get it. My local "expert" said to put them on top of the post and tighten the nut. Good news. Well at least everything is new now. I got a new Lucas coil, cap and rotor from TLR today. So everything except the dizzy is new. Wow this really was a good lesson on the igintion. And the first of hundreds of lessons. Thanks guys!!
A good way to keep everything straight with the Lucas points is always to keep in mind that the points are a switch. You can't go wrong if you always look at the configuration and make sure that only the point contacts are the source to ground in that distributor. Anything that provides a source to ground prior is negating the switch.
CLutch started slipping, no turn signals or brake lights. I put a new signal switch in and noticed the two silver "cans" under the dash and I put in all new bulbs. The right signal stays on and doesn't blink. What are the bulb #s? Maybe I put the wrong ones in. one was hooked up and one wasn't. What is the plan of attack?
Start with the clutch...you won't need the other stuff until you remedy that.
The best way to start is with a manual, or aftermarket book, that has pics and lots of 'blow ups'. They will also have a wiring diagram. Be aware with electrical on these trucks, faulty grounds are not uncommon. Start with the easiest stuff first....usually that's where the problem is anyway. Don't go thru replacing your whole cooling system because the radiator cap was bad. If you don't have a wiring diagram, you'd better be an accomplished electrial master. Now that you have had this first Landy exercise, and haven't yet had a 'smoke show', you've found that throwing parts at it won't help if ya don't get at the easy to see stuff first.
Secondly....before you query on the Forum, always do a search on the Forum first, to find out if someone has already answered the question for you. You will almost always find an answer there.
This truck ain't rocket science, and there is a limited amount of things that can (and will)bust.
Most of the fun is figuring it out yourself by just doing a think job on it SLOWLY and deliberately.
Don't race to find the answer, and never start a 20 minute job if you have to go somewhere in the next 3 hours. Often, you will break something else, while trying to fix something. There are no 20 minute jobs on a Landie.
Beer helps in most cases, but there is definitely a point where knowledge begins to decline. That actually happens to be a benefit when dealing with electrical issues.
Do not make it a competition between you and the truck. The truck will win, somehow, every time. Don't keep explosives in the house or the garage. Don't try to be sneaky and add stuff to it by drilling holes...these trucks are perceptive and will treat you the same way they expect to be treated.
Name it, and love it. Have a beer while you just look at how pretty it is.
Rover On
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