1972 Series III: Removing rear diff housing?

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  • LC_rover
    Low Range
    • Oct 2009
    • 61

    1972 Series III: Removing rear diff housing?

    I have the half shafts out and the nuts off from around the housing. It's still not budging. Do I need to really work it over to get it off? Or am I missing some other retaining piece? I have the rear drive shaft disconnected and the driving flange removed as well.

    Thanks in advance,

    -LC_rover
  • mongoswede
    5th Gear
    • May 2010
    • 757

    #2
    If you have both rear half shafts out and you have removed all of the nuts holding it on then the diff housing should come out. It might be a tight fit if it hasn't come off in 30 years. Try spraying some PB blaster in the seem between the axle housing and the diff housing. you might use a hammer to try and tap the connection loose. Be sure you have not missed any bolts.

    here is the exploded diff assembly from the RN website:

    Comment

    • LC_rover
      Low Range
      • Oct 2009
      • 61

      #3
      Thanks, Mongo. Yes, I am sure I have all the nuts off from around the housing, and the half shafts are out. I'll try the PB Blaster and a BFH.

      Comment

      • KingSlug
        1st Gear
        • Oct 2006
        • 177

        #4
        Totally agreed with the hammer, use a brass hammer and start banging. Stuck ODs and diffs seem to be prevalent because POs using sealant solely and not using the specified gasket also. An OD or diff sealed with the gasket and sealant will come apart pretty easy, one with sealant only is like breaking an additional connection. If you have seen alot of ODs you will notice most will have hammer kisses or chisel gouges, where someone was trying to break the seal, because the proper paper gasket wasnt used.

        Hammer it and use a paper gasket and the "rightstuff" to seal it back up.

        Jared
        Visit The Wandering Hippo (my 109 S2A Ambulance).

        Comment

        • mongoswede
          5th Gear
          • May 2010
          • 757

          #5
          I am particularly fond of "Loctite 518" or it may be called Permatex 518 now. Its sort of a redish see through sealant. It is actually an anerobic sealant and it does require nice clean surfaces to stick. Works well if you smear a thin layer onto both sides of gasket or onto both sealing surfaces if no gasket is available. A lot of the older Saab gaskets are no longer available and the Saab parts manuals actually say to use this sealer in its place. Works very well...kind of pricey...smells good. Don't eat it though.

          Comment

          • LC_rover
            Low Range
            • Oct 2009
            • 61

            #6
            Got her done with just a bit of hammering and a pry bar. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

            Got the axle/diff all put back together and then when I was pumping 90 weight into the house, the little plastic fitting on the end of the oil tube FELL OFF THE TUBE INTO THE DIFF HOUSING!!

            I was able to pin it against the wall of the housing with my finger, and then grab a wrench off the floor and throw it at the door hard enough for someone to hear and come and bring me a pair of needle nose pliers from the toolbox.

            Now I have to patch a dent/hole in the garage door where the wrench hit it.

            Comment

            • LaneRover
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1743

              #7
              Originally posted by LC_rover
              Now I have to patch a dent/hole in the garage door where the wrench hit it.
              Working on Rovers rarely affects just the Rover.

              Brent
              1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
              1965 109 SW - nearly running well
              1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
              1969 109 P-UP

              http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

              Comment

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