Door latch question

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  • rejeep
    4th Gear
    • Apr 2010
    • 420

    Door latch question

    only on my RHD drivers door...
    but the auto catch doesn’t seem to work.. I have to hold the latch in the open position to close the door on the striker..

    Is this something I can adjust or is a new latch required?
    1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
    1974 SIII 109" RHD
  • Nium
    4th Gear
    • Aug 2009
    • 400

    #2
    Lubrication

    Have you tried lubing the latch with WD-40. Made a world of difference for me. Went from having to slam the doors shut to being able to have them latch with more normal car door closing force.

    Cheers!
    Walker
    1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
    88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD

    Comment

    • SafeAirOne
      Overdrive
      • Apr 2008
      • 3435

      #3
      I concur except that I'd use something more persistent than wd40--I usually smear a little grease on everything. No matter what you use, you'll get pretty dirty if you touch the latch or the catch getting in and out of the Rover. Lubricating these is a routine servicing item, as your doors will start to get to be hard to close again in another few months--At least on my rover.

      The ultimate solution is to switch to anti-burst latches, at least on the driver's door.
      --Mark

      1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

      0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
      (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

      Comment

      • gambrinus
        1st Gear
        • Jan 2007
        • 142

        #4
        If you grease them, you'll end up with a grease smudge on every bit of clothing you own and your wife will have a fit... Go ahead and ask me how I know this.

        If you have your door adjusted correctly.. even spacing all the way around.. fiddle with the hinges and make sure that you don't need a rebuild kit. You can also adjust the catch.. make sure that it hasn't wiggled out of the right spot. It's a job that's WAY easier with two people and a bit of beer.

        Comment

        • rejeep
          4th Gear
          • Apr 2010
          • 420

          #5
          I think I described my situation wrong..
          It’s not that it is hard to close, or don’t close well..
          It doesn’t close at all unless I hold the latch open.
          All of my other doors close nicely when the striker hits the latch pin, the driver side just thuds and bounces back..
          No amount of pressure I put on the latch will cause it to collapse..

          I will see if lubing it internally will work, but I feel some spring or something is fubar
          1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
          1974 SIII 109" RHD

          Comment

          • SafeAirOne
            Overdrive
            • Apr 2008
            • 3435

            #6
            Originally posted by rejeep
            I think I described my situation wrong..
            It’s not that it is hard to close, or don’t close well..
            It doesn’t close at all unless I hold the latch open.
            All of my other doors close nicely when the striker hits the latch pin, the driver side just thuds and bounces back..
            No amount of pressure I put on the latch will cause it to collapse..

            I will see if lubing it internally will work, but I feel some spring or something is fubar

            Lubricating sometimes helps this situation. If not, you might try removing some shims from under the catch on the door frame (if there are any left under there).
            --Mark

            1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

            0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
            (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

            Comment

            • LaneRover
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1743

              #7
              Should I assume the anti-burst type? Or does your Rover have the earlier type? On one of my Rovers with the older latches to get the door to fully latch and close I literally have to lift up on the door itself. I know it is out of alignment and one of these days I plan on fixing it.

              If you are going to use WD-40 then please don't. Or should I say go and get a product called 'Breakfree' it is much much better.
              1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
              1965 109 SW - nearly running well
              1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
              1969 109 P-UP

              http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

              Comment

              • LaneRover
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1743

                #8
                oh and depending on the jeeps you have there still might be some interest . . .
                1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                1969 109 P-UP

                http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

                Comment

                • stomper
                  5th Gear
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 889

                  #9
                  I agree with the lubing option. If you press the latch inward, it is probably gummed up with old grease. I use WD-40, to disolve this old grease, and get it springing back and forth nicely. You could also use brake cleaner for this, but be careful of your paint as it will disolve that too. Once it is degummed, either leave it, and use WD-40 every 4 weeks or so, or use a stronger greasing lube. Just remember to degum it every so often.
                  Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

                  Comment

                  • rejeep
                    4th Gear
                    • Apr 2010
                    • 420

                    #10
                    Originally posted by LaneRover
                    oh and depending on the jeeps you have there still might be some interest . . .
                    My stable:

                    2008 Grand Cherokee SRT8
                    2007 Land Rover LR3
                    1988 YJ Sahara - Well built 4.2L, Howell TBI, TFI,AX-15,D30&8.8, 4.11, 6"Lift 35"BFG/KM2
                    1974 Land Rover SIII 109"
                    1967 CJ5 Plow Jeep
                    1964 CJ5 Dauntless V6 (build stage, complete resto)
                    1955 CJ5 Plow Jeep
                    1949 CJ3-a 6volt and Stock
                    1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
                    1974 SIII 109" RHD

                    Comment

                    • rejeep
                      4th Gear
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 420

                      #11
                      as for the lock..
                      I will try playing around with it and some brake clean tonight.. Im assuming its gunked up and may free itself.
                      I can also take a quick picture as im not 100% sure if its "anit burst"
                      1971 SIIa 88" NAS Dauntles V6
                      1974 SIII 109" RHD

                      Comment

                      • SafeAirOne
                        Overdrive
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 3435

                        #12
                        Does your door catch on the door frame look like this? If so it has anti-burst latches. If not, they are non-anti-burst latches. I'm confident that yours are "non".
                        --Mark

                        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                        Comment

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