Galvanized Body Capping & Riveting

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  • Skeeball
    Low Range
    • Nov 2007
    • 63

    #31
    Momo and Disco2hse advise is spot-on

    I have done this twice using the correct Hammer rivets which are available in bulk from McMaster-Carr. For the visible body cappings use aluminum hammer rivets you will need a bucking bar and a cheap air hammer gun its not hard to install them correctly where the fixings are non-visible use aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels.

    Have the body cappings hot dipped
    Easily...hit any heavily rusted/pitted areas with a grinder or sand paper easy does it any excess old paint or finish will be removed when the parts are re-dipped as they get an acid bath first.
    1964 Series IIa In progress
    1968 S IIa (Sold)
    1972 S III (Sold)
    1996 Discovery SE-7 (Sold)

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    • NRutterbush
      Low Range
      • May 2010
      • 33

      #32
      Have you considered walnut-shell blasting? Crushed Walnut shells are commonly used as an abrasive blasting media to strip and polish aluminum and other soft metals. I haven't tried it, but I would bet that you could do it in place on the truck, remove the paint, and leave behind nice, freshly exposed zinc surface that could re-oxidize to a pretty fresh looking galvanic coating.

      Has anyone else tried this? I intend to soon, but it might be good to have some experienced advice.

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      • ducttape
        1st Gear
        • Feb 2007
        • 169

        #33
        if you do shot peen, don't forget Merco Tape! http://mercotape.com/fliers/ShotPeen.pdf Proud sponsor of Team Italian Job and He-Man Racing.

        One would think there must be SOME Rover out there that could use my duct tape to hold it together, rather than as a masking.

        1967 Series IIA 88

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