help removing bushing

[jpetropoulos]

I am working on a 72 series III 88" that has pretty typical rust. I have removed the rear leaf springs but on the rear mount / rear spring / drivers side, the bushing was disintegrated and so the inner sleeve of the bushing came out solidly attached to the nut that goes between the shackles and through the bushing with most of the rubber attached.

The problem is that the bushing's outer sleeve is absolutely snug in the round collet (right word) that is integrated into the frame. I have tried tapping it out but it did not budge. I worked a punch between the sleeve of the bushing and the collet and managed to bend it a bit but it is slow and sloppy going and I am worried that I am marring the inside of the collet and will have difficulty getting the new bushing in (if I get that far!)

Anyone here recognize this dilemma and have the obvious solution for me?

Thanks a lot

Jack

[stomper]

I've never had this problem, so others will possibly chime in with other solutions, but I would use a torch, and burn the bushing out of the collet. A little smelly, but you will save yourself a lot of time, and you are replacing it anyway. No marring is a huge bonus.

[siiirhd88]

I have used a sawzall with a fine tooth blade to cut a small section out of the length of the 'tube'. The missing section allows enough flex for the remaining 'tube' to be chiseled loose. Be carefull not to cut into the frame metal.

Bob

[jac04]

Anyone here recognize this dilemma ...

I think almost everyone here, including me, has been in the same situation as you. It is a real PITA.
You can use a hacksaw to cut through the outer sleeve of the bushing. Feed the blade through the sleeve first, then re-attach to the saw. Saw carefuly until you are through the sleeve.
You can also use a die grinder to carefully grind a thin area in the wall of the sleeve, then you can use the punch & hammer method to split the sleeve at the thin spot.

[jpetropoulos]

Just amazing. 10 minutes later and I have my answer. Thanks fellas

[gudjeon]

x2 on hacksaw method. Slice the sleeve and collapse it. If you can put 2 hacksaw blades together and slice the sleeve, works every time.

[mongoswede]

I have used a sawzall with a fine tooth blade to cut a small section out of the length of the 'tube'. The missing section allows enough flex for the remaining 'tube' to be chiseled loose. Be carefull not to cut into the frame metal.

Bob

I vote for the Sawzall method. The hacksaw works but it takes FOREVER. Just pay attention and stop to check on your depth of cut.

[I Leak Oil]

Count your blessings that the rubber came out with the inner sleeve! Usually the shackle bolt rusts to the inner sleeve and they you really have some work ahead of you.

[mongoswede]

The last one i did I tried pressing the bushing out and I tried pounding it out. Then I cut each end off the bolt. After that i drilled multiple holes in the rubber and was able to get the bolt out. Then I had to chisel all of the rubber out followed by a few hours with a sawzall, hammer, and chisel to cut, pry, hammer out the inner sleeve.

[thixon]

You can also put the smoke wrench to it, and then tap it out.

[I Leak Oil]

The last one i did I tried pressing the bushing out and I tried pounding it out. Then I cut each end off the bolt. After that i drilled multiple holes in the rubber and was able to get the bolt out. Then I had to chisel all of the rubber out followed by a few hours with a sawzall, hammer, and chisel to cut, pry, hammer out the inner sleeve.

I've done that a couple times too. I think they should make that procedure part of the Green Bible. The blue wrench procedure as an alternative. Of course this part of the book needs to be rated R.....

[smukai]

bushings

Wow...this brings back memories from 6 or so years ago when I upgraded to parabolic springs.

Hacksaw worked best...it was very easy to make sure I didn't cut too far....

[NickDawson]

used the sawzall method as well - worked quite well

[jpetropoulos]

Now the new bushings won't fit!

So the old bushing casing came out slicker 'n weasel snot. But now the new bushing are just too tight to go in. I have given the inside a run with the file and I am able to get the bushings in about 3/4" but the movement with every tap of the hammer gets smaller and smaller and I am reluctant to drive the thing in too tightly.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Would heating the casing (welded into the frame) help? If yes, can it be done with the gas soldering torch or is the heat simply not there?

I can keep filing but I am sure that I will distort the inside of the casing too unevenly and end up with a sloppy fit.

Jack

[SafeAirOne]

I've never had to do mine, so I'm just throwing this out there:

If it were me, I'd just lube it up and drive it on it, but I'm curious if heating the hole up and freezing the bushings before installation would yield results.

I imagine that the straightness (alignment) of the bushing during installation would have an impact on the whole operation too.