help removing bushing

[I Leak Oil]

First off, stop filing! They're supposed to be a press fit. Second, don't hammer them in. You'll distort the outer case making it even tougher to get in (and out next time) and could end up destroying the bond between the rubber and the casings. Use a bolt, washers and a couple various sockets to draw the bushing into place. And yes, starting it nice and straight will help.

[jpetropoulos]

Ouch! Hand slap (deserved I think). Good points I Leak Oil. It is amazing how obvious some things are after they are pointed out.

Could you describe the bolt / washer / socket setup a little bit? I am imagining that I should be putting the pressure on the outer casing of the bushing and not in the inner sleeve?

I guess that this would mean that I need a washer with a large enough inner hole to go around the inner sleeve and that the thickness of that washer would have to be greater than the distance that the inner sleeve protrudes past the outer sleeve. I can think of a few configurations but it would be great to get a description of one that has proven itself.

And you mention "pulling" the bushing in. I assume that it is acceptable to push rather than to pull? It would be so much easier to start the bushing from the outside, and to have that be the working end as well.

Thanks for all of the input.

Jack

[I Leak Oil]

Pull/push...it's all the same to the bushing. You want a controlled non impact method if possible. The washers or what ever need to apply the force to the outer casing, and have an ID big enough to not put force on the inner sleeve if possible.

Start the bushing in the frame/spring eye. Put the bolt (better yet, I used threaded rod last time) with the washers through it. Thread a nut down until the bushing draws into the frame or spring. If you're using a bolt you'll most likely have to stop, undo the set up and use spacers as you'll most likely run out of thread. Using a piece of threaded rod, or an odd ball fully threaded bolt, you won't have to use spacers. Use grade 5 or better as the grade 2 stuff will usually just neck out and fail.

[gudjeon]

I ended up using a fully threaded bolt that was used to hold power pole cross braces on. This stuff is very tough. Anytime I have something that is pressed in, I make sure the inner bore is smooth and clean. I make an el Cheapo flap wheel for a drill by cutting a slit at the end of 6" of dowel to fit 8-grit emery strips. Spin around inside to smooth. Wear out emery? no prob. just rip some more off the roll. Break the rod? just cut a new one. If it breaks, its not going to gouge up anything. Smooth up the outside of the bushing as well. Lube up well with oil/grease and push/pull in with improvised tool. Hammering just has it bouncing off the rubber by hitting the middle, distorts the shell of the bush, and makes it go in cock-eyed. If its a loose fit, remove and degrease with alcohol, then apply red locktite. I follow this with any pressed in ass'y and have never gone wrong yet. Its a bit more prep work, but avoids problems later.

[alaskajosh]

It might be time to mention the greasable poly bushings offered by Great Basin Rovers. They go in with your fingers and (presumably, I haven't had to do it) come out with your fingers.

[Sputnicker]

a

washer with a large enough inner hole to go around the inner sleeve and that the thickness of that washer would have to be greater than the distance that the inner sleeve protrudes past the outer sleeve

You are correct - the force has to be applied to the outer sleeve. The big washer on the lower shock absorber pins works perfectly.

[gudjeon]

I am making an off road trailer based on the ww2 jeep trailer design. I have machined brass bushings that hammer in the 2 halves. The bolts are drilled so the ass'y can be greased. If this stands up well, I am making these for my Rover next time....

[I Leak Oil]

I have machined brass bushings that hammer in the 2 halves. The bolts are drilled so the ass'y can be greased. If this stands up well, I am making these for my Rover next time....

Big rig style! Let us know how it rides, should be interesting.

[jpetropoulos]

Hi Josh

I couldn't find these bearings on their site. Can you reference the page

[alaskajosh]

Hi Josh

I couldn't find these bearings on their site. Can you reference the page

Great Basin Rovers is a good company but for a web-based business their website is... not as good.
Give Bill a call.

In the meantime here's TAW on the subject:

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_shackle.htm

[jpetropoulos]

Thanks Josh

[jpetropoulos]

Bushing from &^$@

So I made up the required tool using a 1/2" grade 8 bolt with matching washers and nuts, using the shock absorber washer to fit around the inner sleeve of the busing. This worked nicely and I got within 1/8" of getting the busing fully inserted when the bolt actually snapped in half! Literally in 1/2! The nut didn't fail, the threads didn't fail, the bolt snapped with the nut end flying off. Amazing!

Is there something stronger than a #8?

Those GBR bushings are looking good right now

[Sputnicker]

Sounds like a very tight fit. I'd suggest getting another Grade 8 bolt (9/16" if you can find one). Fine threads are better/stronger. Use some grade 8 flat washers and grease the threads. Maybe some penetrating oil (PB blaster or equivalent) if you didn't already lubricate the bore/outer sleeve. Once you get some torque on the bolt, a hammer blow or two (on the bolt head) might get things moving again. I was able to get by with Grade 5 all-thread and some Grade 8 nuts, but did considerable damage to the threads in the process. Snapping a 1/2" Grade-8 bolt is impressive - could have been a defect.

Replacing these bushings was voted one of the Worst Repairs in a previous thread and deservedly so.

Good luck.

[Mountain132]

Same issue

Just got the frame back from the galvanizer and can't get the front bushings in. The rear ones went in with the threaded rod/pipe/washer method but after multiple attempts I snapped 2 threaded rods, pulled a nut through a pipe cap fitting, and bent half inch washers. I know the zinc added some to the diameter of the hole but didn't think it would be that tight. I only got it about 2 inches in and had to grind it off and haven't started on the full removal of the bushing.

When I started, the bushing wouldn't even go in the hole so I had to file the edges of the opening to get it started. How can I increase the diameter of the hole/reduce the diameter of the bushing?

[siiirhd88]

After I had my 109 chassis galvanized I used a small drum sander to clean up the bushing holes. I froze the bushings before installing, and used plenty of anti sieze when installed. I used the same long threaded rod and washer tool to install, but I used grade 8 bits for strength.

Bob