POR-15 Metal Ready

[Jim-ME]

On my tailgate where at one time shovel and pick brackets were located, the alluminum has slight corosion due to steel on alluminum. I'm getting ready to repaint the tailgate and wonder if Metal Ready will do the trick to prevent further corosion if I use POR-15 as a base coat under the primer and finish coat? Also, is Metal Ready suitable as an etcher for bare alluminum so that primer will adhere properly? Thanks in advance for any insight you may have,
Jim

[bamarover]

MetalReady Spec Sheet and FAQs

Here is the info that should answer your questions.

METAL-READY™ is a water-based, zinc phosphate metal
etching and preparation solution that is non-toxic, non-fl ammable,
non-caustic, and non-corrosive. It etches metal to
provide surface profi le for superior organic coating adhesion
on steel, aluminum, and galvanized metal. It also
provides long-term corrosion protection. METAL-READY™
is a biodegradable solution.
Insures corrosion resistance
Neutralizes corrosive chemical reactions between
metal surfaces and coating solution.
Provides superior edge corrosion and undercutting
resistance.
Improves Welding Conductivity
Creates surface profi le without the costs and liabilities
of sandblasting.
Non-toxic and non-hazardous

Had to eliminate spec sheet - too many characters. Go to www.por-15.com for further info!

[Jim-ME]

Thanks for the inforamtion. Sounds like it willwork well.
Jim

[J!m]

When ever I paint aluminum vehicles, I always strip to bare metal (through baking soda blast and/or chemical strip), apply an etching primer (very thin, actually semi-transparent stuff), then a sealer to even the color, just enough to cover, and finally paint.

I never do a 2-stage paint, unless specifically asked to do so. With the aluminum, it has a very high coefficient of expansion, and the thicker you apply paint, the more likely it is to crack, and/or delaminate (without necessarily cracking) causing under-corrosion. Salt from the roads speeds the process, and in spite of popular belief, stainless steel fasteners do in fact speed the galvanic corrosion process when in contact with aluminum. If you use stainless, use plastic washers under the metal ones to slow (but not stop) the process. Just use zinc plated fasteners and install them with never-seize and nyloc nuts. The combination will keep them working well, and stop corrosion against the steel, where the problems occur.

Keep the paint system thin. This is the key to a lasting job. Another nice feature of a single-stage paint is that it will fade over time, just like the original paint. It takes many more years with today's paints, but it makes for a more natural, "un-restored" look, which I think is much nicer than color-sanded blinding gloss clear-coated plastic-wrap paint jobs where you loose all the spot weld details. If you don't want it to fade, take care of it with quality wax several times a year and keep it clean.

I have not used metal-ready for any purpose, but have heard good things about it...

[Woodslug]

J!m,

What brand/type of paint products do you use? I was going to use enamel on my Rover but it is no longer available here in California.

Thanks,

Ted

[singingcamel]

hi jim,
po-15 also has a product that looks like clay,epoxy product that comes in two sticks,break off two eual pieces, work together in your hand to mix, then apply to the corrosion area, then smooth it out with a wet cloth or your hand till smooth, sand if necessary,works great on that application. i used to sell the po 15 product. its great for holes ,corrossion areas. i use it alot....grat stuff you should try it,i think you will like it..cant remember what it called...i could look if your interested...

[Jim-ME]

I haven't chosen a paint product yet but am leaning towards the PPG line simply because if it meets ECRs standards it is more than good enough for me. I will check the POR site ands see if they still sell the 2 part product that was mentioned. Thanks to all,
Jim

[J!m]

I like the PPG product line, but have used several over the years. I ALWAYS use catalyzed acrylic urethane paints. These are essentially epoxy, and cure chemically, not through evaporation, so they can be handled and assembled the next day. Make sure you clean your gun thoroughly, or each job gets very expensive!

I have used the POR-putty you are referring to, and it does not bond well to oxidized aluminum. The area must be blasted free of oxide (the white stuff) prior to application for best results. It works best on blasted iron-based parts in my opinion.

Welding and grinding is still the best repair for these areas- aluminum works smooth quickly and easily as compared to steel. Fillers are not recommended, as they do not like aluminum to bond to, INCLUDING the ones supposedly made for use with aluminum. Aluminum is highly reactive and forms an oxide layer immediately, impeding the bond of everything, which is why I always use a etching primer and start with onto bare metal. If you have any old paint (regardless of how well is appears to be bonded) it compromises all the layers applied on top.

paint jobs are expensive because of the labor hours involved, not for the $200.00/gallon paint... The paint is the cheap part! You also need the catalyst ($75.00/gal last time I checked) and possibly a reducer, although I tend to use catalyst only with no reducer and apply to wet double coats only. This gives me the right finish where I don't have to touch it after applying it, yet has little to no orange peel effect. A good gun will reduce the orange peel as well. SATA is about the best out there, and you pay for it... If it is extremely hot, you may need to use a slow reducer to allow it to flow out before it sets up, or you get orange peel... I like to keep the total layer as thin as possible, as mentioned earlier...

I also made custom guitars for several years, and that paint application is handled a bit differently to get the flawless, glass-like finish required. Applying the paint is less than half the battle; color sanding, clear coat, more sanding and hours of machine and hand buffing... About 40 hours labor to paint a basic "strat" body was normal. And total thickness was more critical as it does play a part in the final musical qualities, even in a solid bodied guitar...

[jp-]

Jim,

Great painting advice! I wanted to add that I used a single stage paint on the 109" with no clear. It looks very close to the original, but attracts dirt something awful.

On the 88", I used a single stage as well, but applied 2 clear coat top layers. I like the shine, the spot welds are not covered up, dirt comes off easy, and it does appear that it is going to hold up longer with the clear.

My gun is also a SATA (Jet 90).

I did want to ask what aluminum etching primer you are using?

[J!m]

The last aluminum I painted was Mike's 101. On that, I used some paint I had not used before- I don't remember the brand. My previous source had stopped carrying the PPG line and had something else.

I typically use PPG and they only have one etching primer as far as I know. By the way, it is also excellent for use on bare steel to increase adhesion and reduce corrosion. It still needs to be sealed before paint, but I think sealing is key, particularly with a mix of steel and aluminum parts to even the final color. Otherwise, the final color can be different.

Also, I was not saying that a clear coat would hide the spot welds- the plastic filler does that. Also, trying to color sand when the surface is so far from flat or smooth just looks cheap. Apply it as wet as you dare, and let it flow out. Further, the increased paint thickness decreases the bond strength to the substrate.

If you were set on using a clear, I would use a proper 2-stage paint system (because the clear will bond better this way), and then have the clear 'dulled down' a bit so it does not have that 'wet lollipop' shine that looks great on an Aston Martin, but a bit off on a series truck. Not 'flat', but a slight shine reduction (this is easily done when the clear is mixed up) will keep it believable, BUT, I equate this to "pre-distressed" jeans, where the fading and wear marks are fake, and not from use- a slight sell-out in my eyes, but not the end of the world if this is what you want.

[Jim-ME]

Since my Rover is ex-MOD and I want a flat finish (no shine) do you have any recommendations?
Jim

[J!m]

Any (quality) paint can be mixed up with any degree of gloss you may want.

I'd suggest a "semi-gloss" rather than an all-out "flat" finish for your truck. The flat paints always appear lighter in color than they actually are, and they tend to hold dirt a bit better than glossier paints.

And, your vehicle was delivered from the factory in gloss bronze green with bright galvanized cappings, so theoretically, if you want a factory restoration, it would be a nice gloss finish.

If you intend to do an "in service condition" restoration, you will be painting the galvanized capings as well. These need to be zinc chromate primed, or the paint will peel off in a few years... Zinc oxidizes even faster than aluminum. This is why it is so popular for explosives... Even with the primer, the paint is definitely "temporary" on any galvanized surface.

[Jim-ME]

Thanks for the very useful information.
Jim