Alternator question

[mongoswede]

can someone recommend a good quality moving-coil voltmeter?

moving coil? You mean the old school needle type? If so...I got nothing.

I use a DVOM similar to a fluke...but not a fluke.

Here is a Fluke.....kind of cream of the crop and pricey but very good. You can get a decent DVOM from Sears that will work just as well.

[gudjeon]

No fancy brackets needed. I just ground/filed the big mounting ear of the alternator to fit and line up the belt and pulley. A long through bolt with some spaccer in behind it all lets you use the original dyno bracket. You only need to make the top bracket. Some don't like it this low, but, if I drown this I will have other things to worry about besides a 40 dollar rebuild kit.

[RoverForm]

moving coil? You mean the old school needle type? If so...I got nothing.

I use a DVOM similar to a fluke...but not a fluke.

Here is a Fluke.....kind of cream of the crop and pricey but very good. You can get a decent DVOM from Sears that will work just as well.

thanks mongo. i got my hands on a fluke. did an in situ test this morning following the directions on page 171 in the brooklands owners workshop manual.

with the engine idling the generator reading was ~6.02
battery reading before starting was 11.45
battery reading after doing the test was 7.92

and the reading on the new battery in my '07 volvo v50 was 12.6 (used as a reference).

so obviously the battery is losing charge, but I don't have a reference for the generator voltage range. so is it bad? or is there another reason why it doesn't start without a jump???

[mongoswede]

thanks mongo. i got my hands on a fluke. did an in situ test this morning following the directions on page 171 in the brooklands owners workshop manual.

with the engine idling the generator reading was ~6.02
battery reading before starting was 11.45
battery reading after doing the test was 7.92

and the reading on the new battery in my '07 volvo v50 was 12.6 (used as a reference).

so obviously the battery is losing charge, but I don't have a reference for the generator voltage range. so is it bad? or is there another reason why it doesn't start without a jump???

A battery should have a minimum of 12.6v. I don't know about a generator....but with alternators you should see voltage between 12.6 and 14.4 volts when everything is working properly.

[Sputnicker]

Unless you are trying to maintain originality, I would recommend ditching the generator and regulator and upgrading to an internally regulated alternator. They are much more reliable and readily available if you ever need a replacement. The Delco 10Si seems to be the most popular replacement. I bought the adapter kit from Pangolin and it was a simple installation. There is a good discussion and some instructions on Teri Ann's website for the conversion: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/...ternators.html

Because of the higher output, most folks bypass the ammeter, which could overload and leave you stranded. If wired correctly, the warning light will let you know whenever your battery isn't getting enough charge. Adding an in-dash voltmeter is an option that provides real-time status, or you can use your multi-tester if you suspect any charging anomalies.

One thing you should investigate before doing anything else are all the connections and wires leading to and from the generator and regulator. Also, take the cover off the regulator and check the contacts for pitting and/or debris. These can be easily cleaned with some fine sandpaper or a point file. Wiring issues are fairly common and easily remedied (usually).

[RoverForm]

thanks sputnicker! i'll take a look at the regulator and connections next.

[Cosmic88]

gen vs. alt.

Just my $0.02 .....definitely ditch the generator. And unless you plan to install a winch and more than 4 Hella 1000's AND run your heater blower motor all simultaneously you can keep it all connected through your orig ammeter.

Unless your battery is dead you will most likely NOT incur an initial (startup) draw greater than 30 amps. AND if your battery is that dead you will most likely fry the regulator in the alt anyway.

I installed that very same delco 67 amp alt in my '66 88". I did however, install a 30 amp fuse between the alt and the ammeter just in case

Unless your alt is a totally different housing configuration from the one I purchased you will need to modify / change the upper adjuster bracket. I just bolted the one I made to the left engine lift eye bracket and it works perfectly thank you.

Not really worth two cents... so just keep the change.

[RoverForm]

cosmic and albers,

aside from the brackets and the addition of a potential fuse between the alt and the ammeter... what other modifications/componenets are needed for the gen to alt swap?

[JimCT]

Fuses

If the fuse blows you fry the alternator. It tries to full feed. Kind of an expensive way to protect a too small amp meter. Replace the amp meter or by pass it, but do not fuse the output of the alternator.

[scott]

my amp smoked once after firing up the truck after it had sat a while. it was double batteried and both needed charged so the 80 amp alt went to work and the amp meter just couldn't hang

[RoverForm]

HELP!

updates!

action:
installed rebuilt lucas generator
installed and polarized new voltage regulator
installed new (vehicle correct) interstate battery
cleaned and tightened all cable connections

results:
baby fired right up
charge light on dash is still lit up
ammeter is reading -10 to -15 on the gauge

i assume the battery is still not charging.

what am i missing (aside from upgrading to an alternator)?!