Clutch Master replacement

[KevinNY]

If you remove the wing on a Series 3 LHD then am I correct that there is no need to remove the pedal tower to replace a clutch master cylinder?

[jac04]

Correct.

[amcordo]

Correct. Don't forget to swear a bunch when you bash your knuckles on the wing when going after those screws inset against the bulkhead.

[KevinNY]

They'll turn right out, they are all new and the wing was just off. In an attempt to avoid shipfitters disease I did not replace the master while the pedal box was out and it bit me in the ass 250 miles later.

[amcordo]

Sounds like you'll need to replace your frame, engine, transmission, axels, and anything else while you're at it just to avoid the same problem in 250 miles. At least, that's what I'd convince myself when justifying the money...

[KevinNY]

Actually everything you mentioned has already been replaced

[gudjeon]

Fender to bulkhead bolts are not that difficult. Use long extensions and you can operate the ratchet in the open wheel well. This is the perfect spot to slop on the anti-seize.

[SalemRover]

If its any help the clutch master on an SIII is interchangeable with a D90 one.

[Terrys]

Correct. Don't forget to swear a bunch when you bash your knuckles on the wing when going after those screws inset against the bulkhead.

Those four are easy. The ones between the wing and rad support on the left side are the real b!tch.

[amcordo]

If its any help the clutch master on an SIII is interchangeable with a D90 one.

Question - interchangeable, unless you own a d90, right? Doesn't it have something to do with having disc brakes? Feel like I saw that on here somewhere...

[SalemRover]

Clutch hydraulics are seperate from the brakes. I have had a rebuilt 90 clutch master for 7 years, well until last week when someone stole the clutch MC cap. D-90 owners can be so cheap sometimes.

[SafeAirOne]

Those four are easy. The ones between the wing and rad support on the left side are the real b!tch.

I've had mine apart so many times that even those are relatively easy now. Probably be easier if I used the anchor bolt strips, but I use 1/4-20 stainless hardware instead. The key is to use this bolt grip tool from Aircraft tool Supply to hold the bolts while I start the nuts:

[KingSlug]

Order an S2a master cylinder/pipe/reservoir w/single outlet, this way you dont have to spill brake fluid when you attempt top the thing off. I always hated the S3/D90 clutch reservoir.

Jared