Brake show replacement and refitting drums

[chester rides again]

Replaced wheel cylinders and brake pads on all four wheels. Read a post on here about how to replace and refit the rear shoes/ drums - have to open things back up and check again as I remember that the drums were hard to get back on. Thanks to Terri for her info.

Regarding the front drums - I had to pound the drum back on - I realize I messed something up, so that will be a redo also... Is there a front or rear brake shoe on the front axle?

I also notice that there is vertical movement on each pad as it sits in the wheel cylinger slot - any comments on centering the pad? I'm guessing that the pad should be equally distant from the edge of the backing plate all around...

Stupid comment, but I'm assuming that when the drum is replaced and the adjustment screw is all the way in - the wheel should rotate freely - correct?

Truck is '67 109 regular.

[artpeck]

I am midway through doing exactly what you are doing on a newly acquired series 3 88. So far I found None of the issues you have encountered. Drums come off easily and shoes centered very intuitively and the drums went back on as long as the adjustment cam was is the fully retracted position. An obvious thing but worth mentioning is that there are wheel specific cylinders so I would presume there are at least specific front and rear drums. I kept mine tagged so what came off went back on the same wheel. The result is a wheel that turns easily reassembled with the procedure then being to turn the adjustment screw until the wheel does not turn and then back it off.
Not sure if any of that helps but but consider worth what paid for.

Art

[jac04]

On 11" front brakes, the shoes (not called pads on drum brakes), will have vertical movement in the slots. You will need to play around with the shoes to get them in the proper position to allow the drum to fit back on without any hammering or pounding. Eye-ball it first as you mentioned. I found that starting the drum on one shoe then gently tapping the other shoe into the correct position did the trick.

Make sure that the adjusters (one per shoe) are fully slacked. You may also need to adjust the shoe steady posts (again, one per shoe). Follow the manual for adjustment.

A word of caution on 11" brake shoes: I have found that the posts on the shoes that contact the adjusters are too long on both the ProLine (Britpart) and Mintex shoes. The posts will interfere with the base of the adjuster and the shoes won't sit in the proper position. You will know if this is happening because the drum will start over the shoes OK, but willthen start binding. IIRC, I trimmed about 1/4" off the length of the posts for proper fit.

[chester rides again]

ok, so I took the rear drums back off, and turns out i had both leading side shoes on one wheel and the trailing ones on the other. changed things up and everything slid on pretty nicely. there's still a little rubbing on one wheel, but i'm hoping that goes away once i bleed the system and drive around a bit. if not- got enough anti-seize to drown a horse!

now on to the front ones...

[NRutterbush]

o there's still a little rubbing on one wheel.... ....if not- got enough anti-seize to drown a horse!

Please tell me that I read that wrong, and that you are not suggesting Anti-seizing one of the brake linings where it contacts the drum.

What is rubbing? The shoes should almost touch, and if they drag a few thousandths, they will wear into place quickly.